CJ7 junk yard parts bin on 42's

Finally had time to wrench and got the trans , t case and engine bolted back together. Little man and I got her back in last night - super tight with the exhaust in the way now. Hope to wire it back up and make all the other connections today and get it running.

Twin sticked the Dana 300 while it was out to. New gaskets and seals on everything... IMG_20231222_192845908.jpg
 
Got it connected enough to run. Rolled over once and then lit off just like it ran yesterday. Now for driveshafts, fluid top offs, run the light harness back through the grill etc.

Ordered a sniper 2 for it yesterday. That'll be here next week. May run the carb for a week or so and dump some B12 down it to clean all the gunk out before installing the EFI.
 
New hardtop on
New door and winder gaskets (that was a royal pain)
Fluids topped off
New rear main seal leaks worse than the original - irritating so I dumped some seal swelling juice in and it'll be fine...

New tires and wheels in way of 40" Mickey thompson MTZ's that @Croatan_Kid found for me local, and some new H2 wheels. Plan is for this to bring the rpms down at highway speeds. Still run the 42 TSL's on beadlocks in the woods

And smeared from VGG gloss shine juice clear coat on it. This stuff is amazing, we're talking @CasterTroy tire shine level of gloss. Literally took 5 minutes, wiped it on and it laid down flat. If you have some faded out old rig that you want people to wow at this stuff if the deal. Only regret is I mixed about half the can and had twice as much as I needed. So without any prep at all I cleared the undermount boxes on the gooseneck and even those look amazing.

Drives great, went for fuel and ran 60 easily, tires are louder than the 35" falken MT's but run just as smooth.

Pic doesn't show hardtop or lights but whatever...that happened the next day. Tires fill in the fenders much better than the dink 35's and daily driving 40's is the deal.

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Drove it to church today. Runs 70mph easily, straight and smooth. Not sure mpg is improved with 40's but rpm is down. Speedometer is way off. 55 on the dash = 70 on the GPS, need to get a different gear for the tail shaft. Rear main is really puking, can't ignore this one. Have to do that again next weekend... uhg.

Of course it rained so the shine juice is covered with grit...
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The third rear main seal seems to have slowed the leak down to what the original seal's leak was... great. Going to dump some seal sweller juice in and call that done for now. Thinking it's going to take some machine work to 100% solve this. Get around to that when I drop in a 440 source stroker kit further down the road.

Got to install the sniper kit when I get a free weekend later this month. Trim and install the new motobilt trans tunnel cover (factory one has been hacked but is still in and covering most of the holes). New speedo gear for better calibration with the 40's and it's hopefully good for this phase.

Next phase is the ecobox and 205 project. Even with the xj leaf stretch and rear shackles hanging off the rear bumper I don't know that the rear drive shaft can handle the extra drivetrain length. Is it 4 link time? Pretty satisfied with the leaf spring ride and flex, never been in a full linked coilover rig, is it light years ahead? I suspect it would float like a sxs right? But can you daily drive a coil overed rig on the hwy at 75mph with 40's? Would I need sway bars? Lots of questions...

Y'all master fab money bags need to educate me on the realities of daily driver + cripple Creek conquering, boat hauling, muscle car era powered, CJ7 possibilities. Should I just keep if leaf sprung and figure out the rear shaft length with the ecobox and keep sending it or is 4 link and coils the legit next step? If so is it simply 4 link fab, oris or ??? air bumps and sway bars? What am I missing?
 
The third rear main seal seems to have slowed the leak down to what the original seal's leak was... great. Going to dump some seal sweller juice in and call that done for now. Thinking it's going to take some machine work to 100% solve this. Get around to that when I drop in a 440 source stroker kit further down the road.

Got to install the sniper kit when I get a free weekend later this month. Trim and install the new motobilt trans tunnel cover (factory one has been hacked but is still in and covering most of the holes). New speedo gear for better calibration with the 40's and it's hopefully good for this phase.

Next phase is the ecobox and 205 project. Even with the xj leaf stretch and rear shackles hanging off the rear bumper I don't know that the rear drive shaft can handle the extra drivetrain length. Is it 4 link time? Pretty satisfied with the leaf spring ride and flex, never been in a full linked coilover rig, is it light years ahead? I suspect it would float like a sxs right? But can you daily drive a coil overed rig on the hwy at 75mph with 40's? Would I need sway bars? Lots of questions...

Y'all master fab money bags need to educate me on the realities of daily driver + cripple Creek conquering, boat hauling, muscle car era powered, CJ7 possibilities. Should I just keep if leaf sprung and figure out the rear shaft length with the ecobox and keep sending it or is 4 link and coils the legit next step? If so is it simply 4 link fab, oris or ??? air bumps and sway bars? What am I missing?
Not that my opinion is worth much. But it’s all in how the suspension and shocks are set up. Ultimately you should be able to find a middle ground of driving and crawling. But to be perfect you’d need to choose one or the other. Going from leafs to links and crawling shit I used to have to beat on to be rejected, it’s worth it. You don’t realize what you don’t have til you switch over. And I know mines no where near setup right lol 😂
 
Maybe just link the rear., That's what I did to my Jeepster and it has been very solid and it really grew it up on the rocks. I don't daily it or even have it tagged but the few times I've driven it on road it has been fine at all speeds. And with just linking the rear you shouldn't need a sway bar unless your front springs are all gooey.
 
Maybe just link the rear., That's what I did to my Jeepster and it has been very solid and it really grew it up on the rocks. I don't daily it or even have it tagged but the few times I've driven it on road it has been fine at all speeds. And with just linking the rear you shouldn't need a sway bar unless your front springs are all gooey.
Yep! That’s where I started was linking the rear. After 20 sets of xj leafs I could have linked it 10x. After the rears it was a night and day.
 
You don't have to run coilovers/airshocks/Oris. You can just do coil springs and shocks. If your current rear shocks ride well, you can reuse them. Could run jk springs.

Big advantages are no axle wrap, wheel hop, and departure angle vs leafs
 
Was thinking I could package coils in the back and then eventually graduate to coil overs.

Already roached a set of xj leaves too even with the anti wrap bar. Breakover angle is decent with the 42's, but there's all this leaf spring stuff on the axle. Pretty sure I could get links to have less hardware below the axle...
 
Just been driving the mess out of it lately. Sniper 2 is still on the bench hoping to get that installed this month.

Drove it to work today since my son needed the ram for other projects. My commute is 75 miles one way. Haven't regeared the speedo for the 40's but this is at 55mph per the speedometer:

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Nice and smooth at 10mpg... at around 6:30 am

Well sort of. Had a noticable driveshaft hum at 70mph. This is the rear shaft that got pretzelled in Bear Wallow a few years ago and got cobbled back together on the side of a mountain. Ordered a new one today.
 
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And this just happened on the way home...

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Felt it start going at a light so pulled over before it did any damage. A few forward-neutral-reverse cycles and she dropped out...
 
New shaft runs smooth...
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Changed out the speedometer gear also so that's more realistic, and put the dust cover back on the trans bellhousing now that the rear main is dry - finally.

Considering putting some dynomat or similar on the bottom of the floor (frame side) to keep the heat down. I wrapped the exhaust and that helped some. The floor pans are original and I like the originality of the bare floor and don't want carpet on the inside. But don't want the stick on dyno mat trapping water / mud and rusting the tub out from the bottom side Any thoughts/ suggestions???
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Finally put the sniper on yesterday. Pretty simple, just time consuming to run everything properly.

Power it up, go through the wizard real quick then cycle the key and I don't have a tach signal from the msd box so no start. Had connected the msd tach wire to the factory tach last year.... It worked for about 20 minutes then quit. Figured it was a tach problem, but I guess the msd box is the culprit. Still have spark, but no tach signal and the sniper doesn't know the engines spinning so no fuel.

Bought another msd last night - $400 ish. Going to wire up the old Mopar 5 wire ignition stuff first and bypass the msd. Would rather spend the cash on a hyperspark system instead of another 6a box. Hopefully figure this out after church today.
 
Tried the old Mopar ignition parts, I got spark but no tach signal off the neg side of the coil. Ended up putting the new msd box in.

Set idle at 700, maybe a little low, stalled out a couple times just putting it in gear.

Still in "learn" mode, but seems to be working ok.

Lots of new noises I'm trying to get used to with the electric pump a d fuel regulator.

Realized its not charging last night, but was before I put the new msd in. Not sure what's going on there...
 
Alternator was bad, got a new one from AutoZone (lifetime warranty - awesome).

Adjusted throttle linkage and kickdown cables and went for a more extended test drive.

Seems to come in and out of learn mode on its own briefly. Doesn't seem to be any more power, throttle response is the same while cruising and stabbing the pedal down. Off idle to wot instant foot stomp was better with the carb. Wasn't expecting that, the sniper let the motor bog down. Maybe it still needs to learn the level of abusive driver I am, and that I'm a master carb tuner...

Either way heading to ivy Branch next week to test it out on climbs... I'll have my trusty carb with me just in case.

Not really anything to take pics of unless you want pics of fuel hose, and wiring. I'll post some ivy pics when we get back.
 
Alternator was bad, got a new one from AutoZone (lifetime warranty - awesome).

Adjusted throttle linkage and kickdown cables and went for a more extended test drive.

Seems to come in and out of learn mode on its own briefly. Doesn't seem to be any more power, throttle response is the same while cruising and stabbing the pedal down. Off idle to wot instant foot stomp was better with the carb. Wasn't expecting that, the sniper let the motor bog down. Maybe it still needs to learn the level of abusive driver I am, and that I'm a master carb tuner...

Either way heading to ivy Branch next week to test it out on climbs... I'll have my trusty carb with me just in case.

Not really anything to take pics of unless you want pics of fuel hose, and wiring. I'll post some ivy pics when we get back.
They take some learning. My fitech on my jeep is flawless. I’ve done both systems. They only learn under certain conditions as well
 
I'll probably dabble in tuning myself for now. This 440 is all stock and original, no idea how many miles are on it. Has some pretty stout crankcase pressure too. It'll get a stroker kit in it sometime in the future, but for now I just need the sniper to shoot refined dino juice down the throat even if it's upside down...
 
Ivy Branch August 2024 update:

TS Debbie moves into eastern NC Thursday morning - same day we leave for West VA. We towed through it most of the day. Jeep and 4 runner ok the trailer were pretty soggy when we arrived at 11:30 pm Thursday night. My view while driving:
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Stayed at the cabins at the Ivy trailhead. I think these are the nicest accomodations we've ever had while wheeling - we usually camp.

Friday morning breakfast, find some fuel, buy trail passes when they open at 9 and Venture out on the trails.

Making out way up a green a black then another black to get to the "90's double blacks". While on black trail 71, working up a very dusty incline theres a few small rock shelves spaced the same as my wheelbase. Procede to "bump it". Then more throttle ... BANG CLANG SLAP FLAP FLAP FLAP. Tore both motor mounts apart and the 440 is leaning to driver and the fan is self clearancing the shroud. (Fortunately this is the shroud out of the donor Dodge that is in about three pieces now and held together with tie wraps so it's rather "flexible" and the only other casualty was a few tie wraps). Ease it back down, take some greens back to camp while calling local parts stores. Find a pair of mounts up in Charleston so head out to pick those up and an engine lift. My son, Johny, has the genius plan to use the neck of the goose to hoist the engine so we can return the lift unused.

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We had four or five straps at various angles and lift points and he was under it telling me which way to lift. He's always been a good wrench, but I was very impressed with his ambition and MacGuiver skills
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These mounts were about a year old. Replaced them with the same stock junk and were back on the trail by 2. However the new mounts are about shot again, I really need to fab mounts that use leaf bring bushings instead of these.

Find BJ's 4 runner and his BIL in his SXS at the bottom of trail 68 I think. BJ's runner is on 38's and up to the doors in a mud hole. Winch is out but not able to do the deed. Hook the jeep and a few sling shot womps and he's out again.

Now back to the plan and drop into double black 92. Fun creek trail, get hemmed up and wedge in section enough to pull cable to get to this point and then drive out. Fun little waterfall ledge at the exit requires a bump and throttle to get out.
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Then the new sniper fuel pump has a new sound and eventually lost fuel pressure. Struggle to reprime and search for leaks. Pulling the outlet hose off results in a fuel shower, but it does reprime. Do this three times to get back to camp.

It's about 6 o'clock another member of the crew is about to arrive with his boys and dirt bikes so we call it, head back and make fajitas.

Make another parts run for fuel hose and clamps because it sounds like the pump is pulling air. Get back and my son Johny straightens out some hose that was getting softer with heat and kinking, causing the fuel to cavitate. So that's all straightened out, pump sounds like it should and fuel pressure is now constant 55 psi. Ready for another day of hopefully more wheeling and less wrenching.

Got to go make pancakes - another update after today.
 

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Gooseneck engine crane is brilliant.
 
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