Comanche long arm recommendations

Scott86MJ

Scott86MJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 3, 2006
Location
Dallas
I'm starting to try and get my Comanche on the trail this year. I just ordered a Barnes truss for a waggy 44 I'm building. What long arms with cross member would yall recommend? I'm leaning toward a Clayton 4 link. I only need the long arms and cross member not a complete lift. Thanks
 
I would go with true long arms either a 3 link or 4 link. I would stay far away from radius arms. I just got rid of mine for a 3 link and it is a night and day difference in ride quality.
 
Keith1138 said:
I would go with true long arms either a 3 link or 4 link. I would stay far away from radius arms. I just got rid of mine for a 3 link and it is a night and day difference in ride quality.
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Did you build yours? Only full length arms I've found so far is Iron Rock. Every thing else is radius style. Also I should have posted that my MJ will be an off road trailer queen.
 
Scott86MJ said:
Did you build yours? Only full length arms I've found so far is Iron Rock. Every thing else is radius style. Also I should have posted that my MJ will be an off road trailer queen.
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I had the rustys offroad radius arms with the cross member. I built my three link but used the crossmember and added a bracket on the drive side for the three link. Check out my build thread to see pictures.
 
At this point I think the best players on quality Cherokee/Comanche long arms are TNT, claytons, ironman4x4fab, or stinky fab. I don’t think your typical “lift kit” brands can hold a light to the quality the above brands are putting out. Yes they are expensive but do the math on making all of that yourself and you will see the benefit of crying once.
 
If I could do it over I would honestly go with ironman's set up. I like the adjustability they have built in along with the skid.
 
Keith1138 said:
If I could do it over I would honestly go with ironman's set up. I like the adjustability they have built in along with the skid.
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That kit appears to have a lot of beef built in. Looks like a very good unit for the components and price.
Never installed one but it looks extremely well thought out and sorted.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
That kit appears to have a lot of beef built in. Looks like a very good unit for the components and price.
Never installed one but it looks extremely well thought out and sorted.
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If I didn't have the supports on one side of my cross member welded on. I would have probably switched to it.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
That kit appears to have a lot of beef built in. Looks like a very good unit for the components and price.
Never installed one but it looks extremely well thought out and sorted.
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That describes pretty much everything Ironman4x4Fab makes.
And they are local.
And damned good dudes.
And truly in our hobby.
 
Ironman4x4fab.com. Great long arm kit. It works on MJ and XJ. I have it on race xj and have beat the living crap out of it with no issues
 
Thanks for all the input, I believe after looking at all the ones suggested I'm going with the ironman4x4fab kit. Its one of the most expensive but looks like the best.
Now I need to figure out what I'm going to do about the steering. I have the factory knuckles for the waggy axle. I looked at the Barnes 4wd over the knuckle one ton y-link steering kit. Would this be a good option or should I get different knuckles and go with cross over steering kit.
 
Scott86MJ said:
Thanks for all the input, I believe after looking at all the ones suggested I'm going with the ironman4x4fab kit. Its one of the most expensive but looks like the best.
Now I need to figure out what I'm going to do about the steering. I have the factory knuckles for the waggy axle. I looked at the Barnes 4wd over the knuckle one ton y-link steering kit. Would this be a good option or should I get different knuckles and go with cross over steering kit.
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After ditching the currie y link for cavfab cross over I haven't looked back. The steering is alot better. I'm just tempted to put a stabilizer back on to make it a little better. Barnes y link is probably alot better than the currie but I have no experience with it. Another thing with going over the knuckle is think about your track bar angle in relation to your drag link. Most of the time I believe you have to go to a over the axle track bar to get proper geometry.
 
Keith1138 said:
After ditching the currie y link for cavfab cross over I haven't looked back. The steering is alot better. I'm just tempted to put a stabilizer back on to make it a little better. Barnes y link is probably alot better than the currie but I have no experience with it. Another thing with going over the knuckle is think about your track bar angle in relation to your drag link. Most of the time I believe you have to go to a over the axle track bar to get proper geometry.
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Thanks for the heads up about the track bar I'll wait til I have my steering worked out before I weld the track bar axle bracket on.
 
I have a Core4x4 Tier 4 LA kit in the front of my rig, along with their Tier 4 track bar. Their stuff is very beefy for the price. It uses Johnny joints everywhere except axle end uppers
 
Scott86MJ said:
Thanks for all the input, I believe after looking at all the ones suggested I'm going with the ironman4x4fab kit. Its one of the most expensive but looks like the best.
Now I need to figure out what I'm going to do about the steering. I have the factory knuckles for the waggy axle. I looked at the Barnes 4wd over the knuckle one ton y-link steering kit. Would this be a good option or should I get different knuckles and go with cross over steering kit.
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talk to ironman

I have there long arm, rear shackle kit, steering kit, steering brace and I beat the crap out of them with no issues.
 
What @BRUISER said. CAll Andy leave a message if he does not answer. He has one of the best steering/trackbar kits IMHO.
 
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