Copper Crawler buggy build

sounds like a plan; as long as ms. hooters doesn't wanna ring my bell. ;-)
 
sounds like a plan; as long as ms. hooters doesn't wanna ring my bell. ;-)


shouldnt take but a couple of rings:fuck-you:

Then you can make it back to the shop and get to work! haha!
 
thanks dave, my apologies for not getting by there today; frankly just got busy and didn't get away in time. i will see you by the end of the week.

Not a problem.
 
got started on dash and console today and added a window bar. not much to look at but i am relieved i finally came to a decision on how i want dash and control center confiigured, the brainstorming was turning into a brain-bleed.

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now that i have made up my everchanging mind on dash, and also made some final placement decisions on welder, air tank and compressor, fuel cell, dual action packers with Swag off road mounting systems, i have a good plan for the remainder of the chassis systems. be ROCK AND ROLL, from here out...i hope.:bounce2:
 
i was really digging this build untill i seen the tat tat tat welds :shaking: fix that crap and get back to building this bada$$ buggy

theres nothing wrong with those welds. when welding thin to thick it's a nice way to do things. there is no crap about this build.
 
i am very impressed with Cutlers attention to detail and fab skills.
 
that works best for me on the thinner guage stuff, guess got alil carried away on those two tubes. i'm self taught, and do what i can. thanks for the comps. u going on the group ride with us to golden mountain?
theres nothing wrong with those welds. when welding thin to thick it's a nice way to do things. there is no crap about this build.
i am very impressed with Cutlers attention to detail and fab skills.
I respect and like both you guys alot. Even though like most people on this board I rarely meet face to face and cary on a conversation. I also respect both of your builds and really appreiciate the different ways both of you approach things. So here's some constructive advice and is by no means a method of disrespect toward either of you, also on another note please delete this if it detracts from the build thread. The method of joining any weldment with stitched tacs is very undesirable. Each start and stop is entirely encompassed by a cold lap zone on unfused material. These zones weaken the entire weldment and rip appart much like a zipper being torn into. I only say this because of the close up photo's that clearrly shows cold lap between each tack, in welding terms there isn't any presence of the tack being tied together by actual melted or fused material. The misnomer is the weld should look like a stack of coins layed down sideways. A very good discription, however each of those ripples should be completely fused or "welded" to its related surfaces. The edges should fully blend into one another where base material and filler become fully melted. This blending is the weldment. Notice I didn't use the term bonded. Bonding occurs in soldering and brazing through capilary action. The reason most self taught mig welders develope bad habits: they don't properly read what the weld is telling them in appearence. A proper lapped tig weld or stick weld running a whip technique will show the ripple stacked affect but will be quite smooth in tecture.
What you are trying to accomplish is a manual pulse mig. From what I can interpret your doing two things. Your allowing to much time between tacks "off time". And running to little heat. Yes to little heat. As you make the joint keep the puddle glowing red at the least. You can do this by hold the trigger longer or pulsing much faster. Also cut your spacing by half or less. DON'T turn the wire speed up much to compensate. Pulsing the bead requires more heat input and less filler. Adjusting the welder to run smooth continious beads is different than this procces. I always tack and manually pulse weld at different ranges than a continous bead. A MIG WELD COMPONENT SHOULDN'T BE MADE TO TRY AND MIMICK TIG WELDMENTS and vice versa. They are two worlds appart in technique and quality.
Alot of people look up to you guys, me included for your build ideas. I hope this helps and is most deffinately not intended as an insult. And I hope anybody who reads this may benifit. I truely enjoy the builds you guys carry out.
 
warrior welding

thank you for the constructive criticiscm WITH real world data and proper procedure, yes, i am self taught and would never argue metallurgy or procedure with a very knowledgable professional. i will take your advice and attempt to improve my technique in the future and graciously accept any further tips or excercises for a better quality finished product. i am happy that this build has received so much attention and appreciate any and all criticism; respectfully done; (i.e. not in a manner such as frequently done on pirate.) and fortunately i have not recieved any in that manner. i think we all strive to better ourselves and get to the next step with every improvement to our rigs, we all take extreme pride in our junk and appreciate the admiration and attention that said junk recieves from our peers. NC4X4, in my opnion IS the best forum to display our pride in vehicle form, and commune with like minded, respectable wheelers. thanks to the moderators and admins who keep this forum at the level it has acheived!

WarriorWelding; on a side note, we spoke at RIDES a couple months back, and i would still very much like for you to install my 14 bolt shave kit,( if my friggn ring and pinion ever arrive from BULLSHISTIC FABRICATION- only been four months and counting now.) I hope you can still provide that service for me when the time comes.

Thanks again for ALL the comments and compliments!!:beer:
 
Ready to do. Give me a heads up and I'll be sure to have the nickle filler on hand and get it done.
 
I also respect people that have more expierence than I. And am all ear for pointers. Thank for the great info.
 
All you guys put me to shame with your fab skills. This build along with Firetoy's are impressive to say the least.

George
 
who cares about the welds.......i cant wait to do some crazy glass work to the side of this thing!!!!
 
that works best for me on the thinner guage stuff, guess got alil carried away on those two tubes. i'm self taught, and do what i can. thanks for the comps. u going on the group ride with us to golden mountain?[/QUOTE
in my opinion this build is for sure one of the top 5 that i have ever seen on this forum so dont for one second think im bashing and firetoy you are in that small group of great builds also. i just wish i could come up with some of the artistic detail that you guys have. i dont know at this time if im gonna make the club ride but im working on it just waiting on parts to show.
 
who cares about the welds.......i cant wait to do some crazy glass work to the side of this thing!!!!
is that a hint toward fiber-glass race skins!
 
is that a hint toward fiber-glass race skins!


We gonna try it, theres a charger sittin in his driveway right now, and im gonna try to get a mold of the side of it to have some cool looking skins. Its kinda experimental, dont really know if we can do it or not, be we gonna attemt it.

I have tons of experience with fiberglass just not trying to get a verticle mold that large.
 
actually yes, the copper part of the build has kinda gone away due to style, design and flow. This is no racer but yes, jeepn-jason and myself did some design brainstorming tonight to keep the body flowing from the one of a kind front clip, thru the rear quarters. as stated in the opening post of this thread, my ex-wife got my '07 dodge charger, well things change and I have recently reacquired my charger! ('07 r/t 5.7 hemi charcoal grey with matte black shelby style stripes bumper to bumper). and throughout this build i have struggled with keeping the sheetmetal flow of the body in cue with front clip. I had recently noticed some jimmy's4x4 builds and their use of glass rear fenders that fit the front clips, therefore with jason's glass experience and my charger back home, we have decided to make some fender molds from the middle of the charger doors back 48" to rear deck to maintain that flow. also am gonna create door skins that also have a curved profile to carry thru to rear quarters, hopefully! gonna be interesting i think, we'll see. still so much to do.
 
I didn't feel for one second that you were bashing, again appreciate the comps and interest in my build. hope you can make it to GMP! shit, i hope i'm done by then.:lol:
that works best for me on the thinner guage stuff, guess got alil carried away on those two tubes. i'm self taught, and do what i can. thanks for the comps. u going on the group ride with us to golden mountain?[/QUOTE
in my opinion this build is for sure one of the top 5 that i have ever seen on this forum so dont for one second think im bashing and firetoy you are in that small group of great builds also. i just wish i could come up with some of the artistic detail that you guys have. i dont know at this time if im gonna make the club ride but im working on it just waiting on parts to show.
 
that works best for me on the thinner guage stuff, guess got alil carried away on those two tubes. i'm self taught, and do what i can. thanks for the comps. u going on the group ride with us to golden mountain?[/QUOTE
in my opinion this build is for sure one of the top 5 that i have ever seen on this forum so dont for one second think im bashing and firetoy you are in that small group of great builds also. i just wish i could come up with some of the artistic detail that you guys have. i dont know at this time if im gonna make the club ride but im working on it just waiting on parts to show.

Thanks dude.
 
back to work.. alil progress on dash skin today, this recess will be for the vital switches; switch power, start button, cooling fan and trans fan, all with led indicators, trying to keep em in line of sight, sucks to overheat cuz forgot turm fan on!

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