willness33
Here for the memes
- Joined
- May 3, 2005
- Location
- Alexis,NC
I'd pull the head off again if it was me lol.
Crack in head
- Thread starter hunterdan
- Start date
hunterdan
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2009
- Location
- Morganton,NC
I knew I had an exhaust leak and now I know why. I was cleaning up the header surface and found a hole. Headers are a set of pacesetters. I believe hedman, pacesetter and borla all have different obstacles to overcome when installing so I'd like to possibly get this hole repaired. Anyone know if it's possible? Looks like a bead around that pipe would make sure crack/hole is contained. I would consider a weld on inside from flange side but scared it would mess up the mating surface...
Pic 1 shows the spot at about 1 o clock on left tube.
Pic 2 shows where leak was blowing out of right tube about 10-12 o clock.
Pic 1 shows the spot at about 1 o clock on left tube.
Pic 2 shows where leak was blowing out of right tube about 10-12 o clock.
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willness33
Here for the memes
- Joined
- May 3, 2005
- Location
- Alexis,NC
It could be welded. May crack again. Borla was bad for that. Or you could buy a brand new hedman from me.
hunterdan
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2009
- Location
- Morganton,NC
It's just one small crack so I'll probably get it welded. At least when head and header are fixed I can get back to fixing the steering issue. I may have this Jeep wrapped in $100 bill design.It could be welded. May crack again. Borla was bad for that. Or you could buy a brand new hedman from me.
willness33
Here for the memes
- Joined
- May 3, 2005
- Location
- Alexis,NC
It won't be difficult at all to weld. The only problem would be guaranteeing it wouldn't crack again. I've done some that survived forever as far as I know. Then done one or 2 that the crack would just move to the edge of the HAZ. Weird stresses on that one tube on that particular 4.0 borla
hunterdan
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2009
- Location
- Morganton,NC
I imagine shop I use will drill a hole at each end then weld. I might ask them to do a bead on outside completely around the tube to plate.
hunterdan
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2009
- Location
- Morganton,NC
Started to try and prime motor before installing manifold and all in case I have to backtrack.
I drained oil (had a good bit of anti freeze that came out first.)
Refilled oil
Turned over engine with distributor unhooked for about 30 seconds.
I got no oil coming from pushrods. Does it normally take longer than 30 seconds for oil to start coming from pushrods?
Thanks
I drained oil (had a good bit of anti freeze that came out first.)
Refilled oil
Turned over engine with distributor unhooked for about 30 seconds.
I got no oil coming from pushrods. Does it normally take longer than 30 seconds for oil to start coming from pushrods?
Thanks
hunterdan
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2009
- Location
- Morganton,NC
This head replacement is finally done
I don't have a lot of time so it took many short sessions to get it done. This is the deepest I've ever been into a motor. I decided to do the work myself because I have always been interested in learning more about the mechanics of an engine. After this, I've decided it's none of my business.lol.
I had hoped all would go easily but ran into problems such as... dipstick tube needed repair and there is no replacement, broke coolant sending unit. Intake exhaust was tough. Ears on offenhauser intake were thicker than pacesetter header flange. PO had stepped washers to make up for difference but they were home made and I'll fitting. I decided to grind down the intake ears to match header flange. One ear was broken on intake and had to get it welded back on. I then had to file that weld flat on port area. Header had small hole. Had it welded and filed it back flat. Header also had a slight warp on flange. I had to grind it away and also file/ clean up all ports due to uneven welds at stepped ports. First permatech gasket was too thin and leaked so I had to do it again with thick graphite gasket from remflex.
Also had to drill and tap the five pinholes in head that used to help align a plastic valve cover. After that I noticed my head had no holes for valve cover on ends. I had to drill and tap those also. I didn't notice these until I had installed the head. This made it truly tough to do rear hole by firewall. I had to buy a right angle attachment by DeWalt which connects to drill.
I think with a stock vehicle things would have gone easier. With mine some of the problems were.
87 body and 83 block and maybe an 83 head. This makes picking head gasket, sending unit, intake/exhaust gasket...much harder.
Anyway, enough venting. Thanks for all the help I received here. Looking forward to hitting the road while we still have a little spring remaining.
PS. A good mechanic is worth every penny.
I don't have a lot of time so it took many short sessions to get it done. This is the deepest I've ever been into a motor. I decided to do the work myself because I have always been interested in learning more about the mechanics of an engine. After this, I've decided it's none of my business.lol.
I had hoped all would go easily but ran into problems such as... dipstick tube needed repair and there is no replacement, broke coolant sending unit. Intake exhaust was tough. Ears on offenhauser intake were thicker than pacesetter header flange. PO had stepped washers to make up for difference but they were home made and I'll fitting. I decided to grind down the intake ears to match header flange. One ear was broken on intake and had to get it welded back on. I then had to file that weld flat on port area. Header had small hole. Had it welded and filed it back flat. Header also had a slight warp on flange. I had to grind it away and also file/ clean up all ports due to uneven welds at stepped ports. First permatech gasket was too thin and leaked so I had to do it again with thick graphite gasket from remflex.
Also had to drill and tap the five pinholes in head that used to help align a plastic valve cover. After that I noticed my head had no holes for valve cover on ends. I had to drill and tap those also. I didn't notice these until I had installed the head. This made it truly tough to do rear hole by firewall. I had to buy a right angle attachment by DeWalt which connects to drill.
I think with a stock vehicle things would have gone easier. With mine some of the problems were.
87 body and 83 block and maybe an 83 head. This makes picking head gasket, sending unit, intake/exhaust gasket...much harder.
Anyway, enough venting. Thanks for all the help I received here. Looking forward to hitting the road while we still have a little spring remaining.
PS. A good mechanic is worth every penny.
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