D-6

bigassedredjeep said:
Ready to see how comfortable the driver will be in this, how tall are you? It looks cramped as hell and there's nothing in the cockpit yet. This is being built for KOH/long races?
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Plenty of room to draw a driver in there.
 
Packaging of the 28" x 19" x 3" dual pass radiator (7" total depth with fans)

The 2 inch headers are complete with a give or take 21 inch volume on all 8 pipes, and 3.5 inch exhaust pipes.

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Maybe I'm just thinking of this differently, but there is no way in hell I would drive offroad with a radiator off my right shoulder. There is really no way to shroud it from the driver while keeping it adequately cooled. Any puncture will be a steam bath. Why wouldn't you run it flat or lightly angled in the back? And equal length headers don't really mean much with pipes that short. If you are building a race car with some more pipe behind it maybe, but this is just adding undue weight. Push that weird one more forward and get rid of that weird loop.
 
Billet aluminum bumper. Warn Zeon Platinum winch, with the wireless remote (can control 2 other things wireless with that remote) and a few mock up tubes in the front to start gauging where things go before I get into the steering linkage. Extra steering links will hold the front bumper in position. Might machine more pockets into the bumper. Hood tubes will surely get some different shape.

The upper control arm has graduated to it's shell shape, and is under fitment with the sway bar which it will connect to. The addition of the 7 degree caster angle has moved a number of things 0.85 inches, which entails that the lower control arm will go through it's 2nd re-construction using 3/16", and 1/8" inch chromoly sheet metal.

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MetalCraftSolved said:
Billet aluminum bumper. Warn Zeon Platinum winch, with the wireless remote (can control 2 other things wireless with that remote) and a few mock up tubes in the front to start gauging where things go before I get into the steering linkage. Extra steering links will hold the front bumper in position. Might machine more pockets into the bumper. Hood tubes will surely get some different shape.

The upper control arm has graduated to it's shell shape, and is under fitment with the sway bar which it will connect to. The addition of the 7 degree caster angle has moved a number of things 0.85 inches, which entails that the lower control arm will go through it's 2nd re-construction using 3/16", and 1/8" inch chromoly sheet metal.

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Can’t wait to see the finished product.
 
What brand of winch are you going with?
 
Are going concerned about header heat proximity to radiator?

I mean cool air is kinda essential to the operation
 
Ron said:
Are going concerned about header heat proximity to radiator?

I mean cool air is kinda essential to the operation
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The critical things I'll need to do with it is separate the front & passenger side of the radiator from the driver side of the radiator. The passenger side of the engine, and radiator will have a free air flowing corridor from the front of the car, to the rear. Inside this corridor will contain a large percentage of the heat from the exhaust, and then as the air passing through the corridor will flow around the exhaust, and into where the radiator fans are exhausting hot air also.

Basically, I need to separate the driver side of the radiator from everything else.
 
But any ducting or separation you build will be heated by the headers through radiation and convection ...in short you are putting your radiator in an oven.

you do you, I just design these systems nearly daily. What do I know?
 
Ron said:
But any ducting or separation you build will be heated by the headers through radiation and convection ...in short you are putting your radiator in an oven.

you do you, I just design these systems nearly daily. What do I know?
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Lol, when I was building Fire trucks we had manufactures try to vent(fresh air) in the same floor area as exhaust on generators. Air cooled or water cooled didn't matter. Rebreathing the same heated air just compounded the problem of heat sink.

Same for engine driven pumps. Most radiator fan set ups pull and then air carries over the heat source further scavenging heat. If you run it in reverse you might as well be preheating the cooling source.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
Lol, when I was building Fire trucks we had manufactures try to vent(fresh air) in the same floor area as exhaust on generators. Air cooled or water cooled didn't matter. Rebreathing the same heated air just compounded the problem of heat sink.

Same for engine driven pumps. Most radiator fan set ups pull and then air carries over the heat source further scavenging heat. If you run it in reverse you might as well be preheating the cooling source.
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in design terms we call that a cooling air short circuit..or a mechanical short circuit

engineering types usually get it architects struggle with the concept.
 
Ron said:
But any ducting or separation you build will be heated by the headers through radiation and convection ...in short you are putting your radiator in an oven.

you do you, I just design these systems nearly daily. What do I know?
Click to expand...
WARRIORWELDING said:
Lol, when I was building Fire trucks we had manufactures try to vent(fresh air) in the same floor area as exhaust on generators. Air cooled or water cooled didn't matter. Rebreathing the same heated air just compounded the problem of heat sink.

Same for engine driven pumps. Most radiator fan set ups pull and then air carries over the heat source further scavenging heat. If you run it in reverse you might as well be preheating the cooling source.
Click to expand...
Ron said:
in design terms we call that a cooling air short circuit..or a mechanical short circuit

engineering types usually get it architects struggle with the concept.
Click to expand...

It seems like your interpreting that I'm going to funnel the air into the radiator, after the air passes by the headers. This is not the case. The air will be fresh air, forced in above the transmission.
 
MetalCraftSolved said:
It seems like your interpreting that I'm going to funnel the air into the radiator, after the air passes by the headers. This is not the case. The air will be fresh air, forced in above the transmission.
Click to expand...

Yeah cause a slush box stays so cool, mine never contributes to the in cab temp. Radiator is probably good up to 800HP so it doesn't matter the location.
 
MetalCraftSolved said:
It seems like your interpreting that I'm going to funnel the air into the radiator, after the air passes by the headers. This is not the case. The air will be fresh air, forced in above the transmission.
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Wouldnt you still have radiant heat being pushed back from the headers due to your foward motion? You could design a firewall thats separates the headers from the radiator but then you might be setting up for heat soak to occur because the heat from the headers has no where to go. Ive learned that heat is like a bubble with a tail going up until some type of air motion is applied then heat goes the same direction as the air until it goes up or cools.

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I'm out. You have bigger issues than the radiator but the radiator is such a bad design it kills me.

Thread reminds me of my then 5 year old building Lego trucks.

Here we put a gun, because we have one.
Here another gun.
Driver? Stick him to the top..or bottom he can drive under there.
Wait I've got 4 axles let's use them all.
 
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