Dale

/dev/yj said:
Lucas, I just came across this thread - you're living the life! You've acquired knowledge that many only get after many more years of experience. Your dad has obviously been an incredible influence, but you're fearless to dive into things! You drove that across the country and back on basically the confidence you could fix it if it broke. And now headed west again. Pretty cool dude. Sub'd so can enjoy the journey!
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You shoulda been at the NC4x4 meet and greet ride at URE back in September.
Me, @ghost @RatLabGuy and @Buddy_Holly walking around groovin like madmen. Don't miss the next ride. It's downright epic!
 
Finally got around to doing a compression test, as I’m sure some of y’all saw my wanted ad.



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I’m not stoked that the lowest and highest numbers are 60psi apart, but even the lowest numbers seem decent for being cold and dry. Thoughts?
 
I am not 100% about those numbers for a diesel but I would say there okay. As far as the miss have you checked the injector harness/valve cover gasket. They are notorious for failing right near the plug
 
Big updates for Dale! After the compression test turned out ok I decided to order a tuner. I’m not big into lots of smoke but it would be nice to not have the truck hunt for a gear on the highway because it doesn’t make enough power to stay in overdrive at 70. 3.55 gear problems.

Anyways I ordered a PHP Hydra loaded with some tunes, nothing huge. A few mild tow tunes, high idle, and the 80hp daily driver tune. The stock size injectors in these trucks won’t flow enough fuel to make more than an extra 75-80hp. The benefit about that is they can’t squirt enough for the egts to get too hot to where it will melt down (unless you’re really doing something wrong). I’m undecided on where to mount a pyro gauge yet so I haven’t ordered one. Never been a fan of the pillar gauges or mounting it on the steering column. Suggestions welcome on that.

A friend of mine on Instagram designed and 3D printed a really nice mount for the hydra controller that goes right next to the idiot light block in the dash. The hydra looks like it was meant to be there.

Besides that I did the 6637 big chungus air filter upgrade and installed a crossover line for the HPOP to hopefully help with smoothing the idle out. The tunes helped it more than I thought it would but the crossover didn’t make a noticeable difference. This truck runs great now!

I also had the original speedo module sent out and rebuilt by a place in Florida. Finally got around to installing it, and whodathunk, the shifts are fixed! No more flares, no weird converter locking while it shifts. I was dead-set on rebuilding this trans next month, but it seems to be happy enough to hold the power and shifts great with the BTS valve body now. Very relieved.

As an unrelated note, I bought a car trailer from my grandfather a few months back when he was in a bind. It’s old and beat up but just the right size to haul an xj. The rest of this week will be spent fixing it up, deleting the surge brake coupler, and painting it. My hope is to head out to see @sammi_davis this weekend and finally get my XJ hauled home so I can finish swapping the 6 speed. Anyways here’s some pics:

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orange150 said:
Huh
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So after doing more reading, and talking with Module Mechanics which rebuilt it, that little chip converts the signal from the wheel speed sensor at the rear diff into language that the pcm can understand, which is why it makes a difference. They’re a common issue and give all sorts of trouble. Anything from going into neutral randomly (which I also had when I first bought this truck) to weird shifts, to not starting when in park, and limp mode. I thought the junkyard cluster I had was in good shape, but apparently it was bad the whole time too, just never caused limp mode like the original did. It was a night and day difference. The tuner actually made it shift even worse until I put the new PSOM in.
 
I enjoy everything about these most recent posts.
 
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