The Dana 35 thread

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junkxj said:
You would run 3.07 gears in an axle built to run 35s?
That doesn't seem ideal to me, kinda like running a dana 35.....
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Who said anything about tire size? You know what else isnt ideal? The country fried steak for lunch. I gotta poop now.
 
junkxj said:
Wrong.
Unless your np231 can send 100% of the engine power to either the front or rear axle. Mine splits the power equally between the front and rear when in 4wd.

I must have a defective transfer case
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Wrong, you must have a defective understanding of how your transfercase works. Look, I'm not trying to be a jerk, and I think if you reread my posts, you'll see I'm one of the only ones in here trying to be helpful at this point. The NP231 locks the front and rear driveshafts together via a couple of sliding collars and a chain. There is no differential, it just has everything locked together, spinning at the same speed. There is no torque split, just some gears and shafts all locked together. If you happen to have an NP242 like some XJ's and ZJ's, then you have the option of "part time" or "full time" 4x4. Full time 4x4 engages a coupling which allows torque differential between the front and rear. That is like an AWD system that allows you to drive on pavement when in 4x4 without bucking.
 
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jeepinmatt said:
Wrong, you must have a defective understanding of how your transfercase works. Look, I'm not trying to be a jerk, and I think if you reread my posts, you'll see I'm one of the only ones in here trying to be helpful at this point. The NP231 locks the front and rear driveshafts together via a couple of sliding collars and a chain. There is no differential, it just has everything locked together, spinning at the same speed. There is no torque split, just some gears and shafts all locked together. If you happen to have an NP242 like some XJ's and ZJ's, then you have the option of "part time" or "full time" 4x4. Full time 4x4 engages a coupling which allows torque differential between the front and rear. That is like an AWD system that allows you to drive on pavement when in 4x4 without bucking.
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Nailed it
 
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@junkxj you can take your stock or not stock, broke or not broke, bent or not bent, twisted or not twisted, grenaded or not grenaded Dana 35 and stick it up your ass! I'm out.
 
@junkxj Serious question. I need a stock d35 for a street Jeep I have. If the one you have is in good condition and is geared 4:10 I'll buy it from you. PM me and we can seriously talk.
 
jeepinmatt said:
Wrong, you must have a defective understanding of how your transfercase works. Look, I'm not trying to be a jerk, and I think if you reread my posts, you'll see I'm one of the only ones in here trying to be helpful at this point. The NP231 locks the front and rear driveshafts together via a couple of sliding collars and a chain. There is no differential, it just has everything locked together, spinning at the same speed. There is no torque split, just some gears and shafts all locked together. If you happen to have an NP242 like some XJ's and ZJ's, then you have the option of "part time" or "full time" 4x4. Full time 4x4 engages a coupling which allows torque differential between the front and rear. That is like an AWD system that allows you to drive on pavement when in 4x4 without bucking.
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I fully understand how a no 231 works. It can under no circumstances transfer all the engines power to one wheel, as you stated.
So, that would make you wrong
 
junkxj said:
I fully understand how a no 231 works. It can under no circumstances transfer all the engines power to one wheel, as you stated.
So, that would make you wrong
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Wow. Ok. My work here is done. Sorry for trying to explain how things actually work. I'd much rather here your version anyway, it sounds more betterer. How exactly does it distribute the torque? I always wondered why in 2wd my jeep felt like it only had 50% torque, but this is my opportunity to understand.
 
junkxj said:
I fully understand how a no 231 works. It can under no circumstances transfer all the engines power to one wheel, as you stated.
So, that would make you wrong
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Uh, no. With both the front and rear axles locked, 100% of the engines power will go to one wheel if only one wheel is slinging the goo poo and the other three are in the air or have close to zero contact pressure on the ground.
 
A "true" super35 does not still use 27 spline axles/lockers like you linked to. So what you are asking about isn't even what you are looking at buying.

But I have stayed out of this thread the whole time, why did I even post?
 
Installation Notes:

Level 2: Easy
Products with this difficulty level require simple hand tools to install, like a screwdriver or adjustable wrench. These products typically install using screws or bolts. If you own a screwdriver, you can probably install this product.

I don't remember the last diff I worked on a diff w a screw driver or adjustable?
 
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DSM Turbos said:
A "true" super35 does not still use 27 spline axles/lockers like you linked to. So what you are asking about isn't even what you are looking at buying.

But I have stayed out of this thread the whole time, why did I even post?
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I never said anything about using a super 35. It states exactly that in the very first post. Another person to lazy to actually read
 
junkxj said:
I fully understand how a no 231 works. It can under no circumstances transfer all the engines power to one wheel, as you stated.
So, that would make you wrong
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Actually, I've given it some more thought, and you are correct. As you said, "It can under no circumstances transfer all the engines power to one wheel" because you're trying to do it via a Dana 35, so the power will stop being transmitted somewhere between the pinion shaft and about 1/4 of the way down the axle shaft, depending on which D35 part breaks this time.:lol:
 
4sd air95 said:
Installation Notes:

Level 2: Easy
Products with this difficulty level require simple hand tools to install, like a screwdriver or adjustable wrench. These products typically install using screws or bolts. If youIi own a screwdriver, you can probably install this product.

I don't remember the last diff I worked on a diff w a screw driver or adjustable?
Click to expand...

I found that hilarious. I own 2 screwdrivers so this install will be a piece of cake.
 
drkelly said:
Uh, no. With both the front and rear axles locked, 100% of the engines power will go to one wheel if only one wheel is slinging the goo poo and the other three are in the air or have close to zero contact pressure on the ground.
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No. That is unless you are talking about the BW1339 Quadra-Trac transfer case used in the late 70s- early 80s. My tj came with a np 231, which can not do this.
 
Can so.
 
I was wrong earlier too. Torque is not split.
 
I still want to buy the original d35. This would give you a couple extra bucks to put toward a better rear axle. I am not being a troll or smart ass.
 
junkxj said:
I never said anything about using a super 35. It states exactly that in the very first post. Another person to lazy to actually read
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You know I already called you out for not fucking reading the responses in your own thread, right? It was back on page 4.

YOU MUST READ MY POST BEFORE POSTING IN THIS THREAD AGAIN.
 
junkxj said:
No. That is unless you are talking about the BW1339 Quadra-Trac transfer case used in the late 70s- early 80s. My tj came with a np 231, which can not do this.
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Sorry, but you're fucking wrong.

Just think... If you're wrong about how a NP231 works, what else could you be wrong about....? What else....?
 
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