dream shop build- whatcha got, what would you do? not do?

Chuckman

Chuckman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2005
Location
Huntersville
ok, we've got a title in hand for 2 acres of land in Boone- (hell to the yeah) and we are going to build a house as soon as possible. with the selling of our house and building new, I have about $50k to build a NICE shop for hobby use. I'll store a couple flat fenders, a BIG cj7 and still need enough room for metal fab and a small woodshop. I also want to store my hunting/camping gear and not keep anything in the attached 2 car but our DD's. at my farm I have a 1,200 sq ft barn w/ single door and its big enough just not what Im looking for. I think 3 bays (doors) wide, 2 jeeps deep and Im set. but I think I want a twin post lift in a bay. do I want this on the end or middle (as this would determine the shape of roof etc). Id need water for a sink, but no bathroom etc. no loft. possibly a perimeter shelf. what have you guys done, wouldve LIKED to have done, and what do you not recommend. Id like to run a wood stove or oil heater, but not propane - just too expensive. since this sucker will be right up past the house and were not wanting the 'look' of a metal barn. Since the land lays just right, I would only have to dress the front with new/reclaimed wood etc. do I want roll up doors? barn doors? insulation is a definite. do I need to cover the insulated walls up to a certain height? thoughts? donations?
Chuck
 
I am starting on a 42x60 red iron steel building. I will be putting in partitions to divide into 3 sections (17x60 - RV, tractor, and storage shelves////25x40 general shop, lift////25x20 welding area (no flammables, junk stored, etc). Two roll-up doors on each end so can drive thru. Divider wall between shop and welding area will have a roll-up door on it. Plenty of turning and maneuvering room at both ends of building. Shed roof down one side for implements, etc.

Lots of light -- I am putting in dimmable LED high bays. I'll be about 110cf in the weld area (4 James 165w), 118 in shop (8 James 165w). Target was 100cf. On side of building with shop and welding room, will have 3' translucent panel at top of wall. RV/tractor/storage side will just use 2 bulb T5 lights from my current shop.

Loft/mezzanine for storage.

All electric surface mount in conduit for future upgrades/additions. (As suggested on another thread here, 7000 outlets, each on it's own breaker).

Lots of shelving and storage areas, so main shop isn't junked up with crap, yard tools, etc.

You can do a lot with the looks of a metal building to make it fit the house.....steel wainscoting to start, and cheapest. Brick wainscoting, brick facade, hardiplank facade, etc....lots of options. 3:12 or better roof pitch rather than 1:12.
 
naw, thats about right. I have the same barn at another property for same usage. works fine.
 
Roll up doors don't seal all that well either, unless you frame the wall around it.

Barn/sliding doors can seal up if you overlap the opening and have latches to pull it closed on each end.

Swinging or slide up doors provide the best seal.

You typically need a ~14ft clearance for a full height lift. That could easily be done in a center bay with 10ft walls. Go 12-14ft walls and give yourself options for a 4 post in another bay if storage is needed.

I would suggest putting as many windows/skylights as you can for natural light.

I would also put a leanto down the back/sides for extra parking/ storage. Could always plan for that for jeep parking and get by with a smaller shop.
 
Fuck a floor drain
 
I did 10' walls on mine. 3 bays. Vaulted trusses where the lift is (12' max ceiling height required for my lift) and attic storage trusses over the other 2 bays. You're gonna be pushing your budget at 50k. I've got about 35k in mine doing most of it myself and built it in 2008 when stuff was cheaper and most of my materials were bought at wholesale. Mine is 900 SF, wood framed, and vinyl sided. The concrete/ foundation will be enough to make you cry. Steel framing is cheaper than wood- food for thought.
 
3/4 plywood for first 8' inside. You can hang anything, anywhere, and benches sit tight to wall. Metal liner up above that. Paint walls and ceiling white, makes more use of your lighting.
 
Oh, and one section of your floor as dead-nuts level as you can get it, for larger fab projects.

And some anchor pots:

11538.gif
 
I want a 30x50 or 60. 10x15ish finished room in front corner, full bath adjoining with access door in shop. Single bay door up front with 2 side bay doors. Will probably do a full length carport attachment on the side.
Looking for land now in the Guilford/Forsyth and maybe even Rockingham County area.
Shop will be for working on projects and having friends over. Plan to build a small house with a unfinished basement for later addition and a big shop for the majority of activity. House is for sleeping. Haha

As has been said... The building price seems inviting until you talk to the concrete folks. Like a shot from Mike Tyson to the gut.
 
I second red iron. I am doing a 40 by 40 17ft to the eves right now.
6 inch slab insulation throughout two walk doors and four Windows for natural light.
Finishing with two 14 by 14 roll up doors. Wainscoat all around, full trim, full gutters, three color combo. I'm weird on colors, my wife's going to roll.
Drains make for clogged up skeeter holes and a dedicated area for wet stuff. Meaning used effectively zero function for anything else without moving crap all the time.
I'm putting in 4 foot exhaust opposite the doors. Back corner loft and tool area. Front of this heavier fab tools, shear, tube bender, break. Front of this 2 post lift. This leaves the entire other side mostly clear for a long project or camper maintenance. Out side full length shed roof for camper storage.
Pad is made another 20 foot deep for expansion.
Of you get what your wanting at 50k and you don't touch it yourself I've seriously messed up.
 
I would never ever build a shop 30' deep again. It is exactly the wrong depth. We put up red iron for my dad,30*50. I would do 40*40 if done over. If you have a full size 4 door truck you don't have hardly any room left if you pull in and shut the door. I have been getting pricing on a 60*100 building myself. I learned alot from my dad's but the 30' deep part is the worst thing about it
 
CasterTroy said:
2 words: oil interceptor

If there is a potential for a vehicle (garage door) and a floor drain in the space there WILL be an oil interceptor installed
Click to expand...

And a trap primer.

Then you've got to fight it out between storm and sanitary.
 
Ive got a solid hookup on the concrete / installation. but yes, Im aware of that cost otherwise. its crazy.
 
Im about a year out to build my new shop. Going for 40x60x12. Red iron with 2 roll up doors, and one man door. Hope to do it for 50k.
20k Building, taxes, permits, delivery, and fork lift rental
15k concrete
5k electrical
6-8k for insulation
2k extras and incidentals
---------------
50k total
 
If i were to build my dream garage it would be ~40x100x12 under roof. Front 10x40 concrete, 40x40 enclosed with 1-12ft door at each end and a 9ft door on the side near the back. Last 50x40 would be gravel for vehicle/project storage.

As mentioned, winch anchors in the floor at each door. If plumbing is an option, a full bath. Bath, compressor, & part storage would be in back 50ft.
 
I am planning to build something like this at my land. Shop space of 30x40 with containers on each side for equipment/parts storage. My main reason for doing this is I can put the containers in place and have rodent proof/lockable storage instantly for skid steer, truck parts, furniture, etc while we build our house. When the house is done I will work on the shop. It will have a big I-beam in the center for hoisting engines and stuff (I will put a post directly under the beam so the containers are not supporting vertical load).

I will face the two upper containers backwards, that way only the bottom ones are visible from the front. I have actually thought of facing all 4 backwards so from the front of the shop you don't even know it is made with containers, I may still do it that way I'm not sure. I still have to burn a brush pile, finish leveling the spot, and build a retaining wall before I can bring containers in.
 

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Quonset hut with a hangar-style sliding door.

That's what all the ole boys up here use for giant shops; seems to do the trick. I would want a Quonset that wasn't totally a semi-circle design but rather sloped up on the sides for more space.
 
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