- Joined
- Mar 17, 2005
- Location
- N. N. Raleigh, NC
Drill Doctor -
Well I finally figured out my drill doctor. Guess I'm stupid cause I read the book 10 times and watch the movie 3 times and still just didn't get my bits to look right...
I have the 570x which has several adjustments. The book glosses over any technical details of the adjustments only making overly simplified statements. And of course no pics or references...
So after some fiddling I figure out what I was doing wrong..
The bit angle (usually 118 or 135) has NOTHING to do with the chisel angle.
The tool has had 118 referenced on the chisel angle w/ + and - incriments from there. No mention of how it related to the cut angle if it did or not) I now realize it doesn't.
Finally through methodical testing I determined what I later confirmed online in reading. I found a good machinist article which covered some bit details and stuff.
"Generally, point angles for split-points are 118° or 135°. The
focus here will be on the latter, because it is used most widely
When grinding the 135° split-point surface, the chisel-edge angle
(Figure 9A) should measure 105° to 120°."
[ Referenced from here: http://www.precisiontwistdrill.com/techhelp/pdf/HSS_reconditioning_189-190.pdf ]
Ahhhhhhhhhh I now I get it... I found that if I set the chisel point (the index thing on the depth setter part) lower than center starting point of 118 my bit got better... Ie I rotated that clock wise down 3-4 notches for most of my HSS bits. I'm not sure if its better or not, but at this point I simply wanted my bits to look like they did when I started only sharper.. I'll work on understanding the pros/cons of the different angles down the road...
Now I get it...
Figured I'd share cause I know there are at least 2 others out there having the same problem I did I won't name names..
Well I finally figured out my drill doctor. Guess I'm stupid cause I read the book 10 times and watch the movie 3 times and still just didn't get my bits to look right...
I have the 570x which has several adjustments. The book glosses over any technical details of the adjustments only making overly simplified statements. And of course no pics or references...
So after some fiddling I figure out what I was doing wrong..
The bit angle (usually 118 or 135) has NOTHING to do with the chisel angle.
The tool has had 118 referenced on the chisel angle w/ + and - incriments from there. No mention of how it related to the cut angle if it did or not) I now realize it doesn't.
Finally through methodical testing I determined what I later confirmed online in reading. I found a good machinist article which covered some bit details and stuff.
"Generally, point angles for split-points are 118° or 135°. The
focus here will be on the latter, because it is used most widely
When grinding the 135° split-point surface, the chisel-edge angle
(Figure 9A) should measure 105° to 120°."
[ Referenced from here: http://www.precisiontwistdrill.com/techhelp/pdf/HSS_reconditioning_189-190.pdf ]
Ahhhhhhhhhh I now I get it... I found that if I set the chisel point (the index thing on the depth setter part) lower than center starting point of 118 my bit got better... Ie I rotated that clock wise down 3-4 notches for most of my HSS bits. I'm not sure if its better or not, but at this point I simply wanted my bits to look like they did when I started only sharper.. I'll work on understanding the pros/cons of the different angles down the road...
Now I get it...
Figured I'd share cause I know there are at least 2 others out there having the same problem I did I won't name names..