Driveshaft for racing.

REDLYNER

REDLYNER

Mall Crawling Race Rig
Joined
Oct 31, 2008
Location
Mountain Island
Simply put, I need way stronger driveshafts than my 1310's. I'm told for my application 1350 is the way to go, so here are my questions:

Do I do a flange at the transfer case AND the axle?
Would I copy the same setup up front in the jeep as in the rear?
Is there a better option than 1350 for my application (racing and daily driving)?
 
1350 is hard to beat in terms of strength vs packaging. 1410 would be stronger and also works at more operating angles without binding than 1350, but due to it's size, you can end up with some pretty large shafts. For what you are doing, 1350 is plenty IMO.
Flanges are superior to yokes as far as I'm concerned in the fact you aren't relying on those 2 little tabs to keep the caps intact. Flanges and their corresponding end yokes protect the u joints from the rocks. My next build will utilize yokes at my Atlas and flanges on the axle end.
 
Jody Treadway said:
1350 is hard to beat in terms of strength vs packaging. 1410 would be stronger and also works at more operating angles without binding than 1350, but due to it's size, you can end up with some pretty large shafts. For what you are doing, 1350 is plenty IMO.
Flanges are superior to yokes as far as I'm concerned in the fact you aren't relying on those 2 little tabs to keep the caps intact. Flanges and their corresponding end yokes protect the u joints from the rocks. My next build will utilize yokes at my Atlas and flanges on the axle end.
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Interesting... I was thinking flange at the Atlas, yoke at the axle. Or just dual flange.

Why not run dual flange?
 
REDLYNER said:
Why not run dual flange?
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Since you are replacing all 4 yokes (assuming you do upgrade the shafts) there is really no reason IMO not to run 4 flanges aside from ease of removing the driveshaft from the case end.
With strap style yokes, you can loosen eash strap and slide the shaft out. With a flange, you'll have to fully remove all 4 bolts to do so. Depending on application, those bolts may have to be loosened from behind the flange. This can add quite a bit of time to the process.
 
REDLYNER said:
Interesting... I was thinking flange at the Atlas, yoke at the axle. Or just dual flange.

Why not run dual flange?
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You lose a little bit of driveshaft length with the flange. Maybe 1/2" or so at each end, but I'm only guessing. Only matters on driveshafts that are already too short anyway.
 
You lose about an inch, inch and a half on each end with a flange.
 
shawn said:
You lose about an inch, inch and a half on each end with a flange.
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2 to 3 inch ds loss in the rear driveshaft would be too much I would imagine.
 
REDLYNER said:
2 to 3 inch ds loss in the rear driveshaft would be too much I would imagine.
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Don't you have an atlas? And didn't you move the rear axle back like a foot?
 
talk to Dave at Olivers and he can probably answer all your questions. and set you up with some d-shafts if needed
 
I think Jay and Dave have met...possibly
 
shawn said:
You lose about an inch, inch and a half on each end with a flange.
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Splitting hairs I know, but an average flange takes 1.75" off, (per side, if applicable).
 
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