Dual batteries

[marty79]

Solenoids and relays are essentially the same thing and can generally be used interchangeably. They function the same but in automotive terms a solenoid usually refers to the round metal can style with exposed terminals (think ford starter solenoid) and a relay is usually referring to the square black kind with terminals or a plug on the bottom.

Yes true but I was confused cause solenoid aren't meant to run constantly so I thought...but again I'm learning new things

 

[drkelly]

Yes true but I was confused cause solenoid aren't meant to run constantly so I thought...but again I'm learning new things

I thought the same thing...

 

[Bebop]

A solenoid is usually moving a mechanism (like in a starter solenoid which moves the plunger for engaging the gear on the flywheel) that may include a contact vs a relay which is moving a contact only.
At least that's how I learned it in school.

No influence on the duration of application, that's more the characteristics of the unit itself which will determine if it can be run in continuous duty or not. They even make some relays and solenoids which have a rest state in both positions and only use current when switching from one to another.

 

[Stuntman Autoworks]

A solenoid is usually moving a mechanism (like in a starter solenoid which moves the plunger for engaging the gear on the flywheel) that may include a contact vs a relay which is moving a contact only.
At least that's how I learned it in school.

You are correct which is why I included the words essentially and generally. Take for example the ford starter solenoid that is usually on the inner fender. It doesnt move anything other than making contact inside but it is still called a solenoid. Why? Idk
Somewhat generally enterchangeable terms sometimes lol

 

[Jeff B]

John, I am impressed you are finally listening to people.
I mean this sincerely.

 

[Tim C]

You are correct which is why I included the words essentially and generally. Take for example the ford starter solenoid that is usually on the inner fender. It doesnt move anything other than making contact inside but it is still called a solenoid. Why? Idk
Somewhat generally enterchangeable terms sometimes lol

Generally a solenoid has a moving core inside the windings. A Ford or the constant duty version listed above are made that way. The center core inside the windings moves to make the contact between two stationary contacts that are the lugs. Either the core itself contacts the lugs and connects them or an attached washer does, which is just like the solenoid on other starters like Chevy and chrysler use, they just also yoke the Bendix to the solenoid so it pulls double duty. Old Fords had no solenoid on the starter because they used a moving pole piece inside the starter itself to move the Bendix as the starter got power. A relay has a non moving pole piece that only acts as an electromagnet to move the movable switch contacts. The difference between the constant duty and non constant duty solenoids is the windings.

Ford solenoids aren't designed to be powered more than 30 seconds to a minute before the windings get hot and burn out, because the starter isn't engaged that long usually. The larger windings flow more current which gives it more hold in power to make a better connection for the 300+ amps the starter may need to spin a cold motor over.

Constant duty solenoids have smaller windings and lower amp ratings for this reason, the windings don't flow as much current or get as hot. A common usage is a golf cart, or in the case of the one listed above, Ford used it on 80s and 90s trucks as a battery isolator actually. Key off both batteries were separated by the open solenoid, key on or start it connects them together like a modern diesel is all the time. Letting the 2nd battery charge up, and if the 1st battery is dead, but still strong enough to power the solenoid, the 2nd will jump start the 1st automatically.

 

[jeepinmatt]

John, I am impressed you are finally listening to people.
I mean this sincerely.

Just remember there's still time to do something completely different

 

[marty79]

Just remember there's still time to do something completely different

Lmbo lol very funny, but no I've learned a lot in many different areas. Electrical stuff I dont like to ghetto fab if I can help it

 

[Ron]

Just set it to 8-10* and call it about right. (Given age and wear)

This is a common misconception though, retarded timing is what causes overheating. Another reason why getting rid of vacuum and mechanical advance is dumb.

As a rule these are two guys I never argue with.
But...
#1 Timing between LP vapor setups and gasoline setups are really irrelevant...due to differing stoich points, ignition flash points and flow rates. To get the same cam angle/phase at the point of combustion actually requires a different timing set point

#2 If timing is too advanced you have pre optimal cylinder detonation. Some of the fuel is burned before compression and you are quenching burning charge resulting in a under fueled condition.