Engineers, Architects, and other really smart people....

broncosbybart said:
Oh, and it'd be very interesting to know if there is a thickened footing under your pole. That pole is necessary but probably doesn't offer enough bearing surface to keep the LVL's from crushing and the diameter is pretty small. We usually see a steel column with a larger cap and base used for this or a parallam (laminated) post with cap and base.
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There is a small plate on top roughly 3x3 and a larger 4x4 one on bottom. I highly doubt the slab is thickened underneath. I don't think the builder put the 2x6's in that I replaced with the pole. I think that was an afterthought due to the shoddy way they were put in.

Now I'm thinking of going with a Beam to supplement the lvl's with Lolly post on each end. Would a 6" suffice? Or go overboard with an 8" ?
 
a_kelley said:
You could likely put a flinch plate on both sides of the beam and you'd probably be good without any support except at the ends.
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Thought about that but I don't want to have to pull all the joist in order to flinch it.
 
Typically what a carpenter would do is build temporary support walls along each side of the beam, remove the beam, and replace it with a bigger one. Probably more than you could do by yourself but is doable. You keep the joists in place. I'd use joist hangers instead of the ledger strip after the new beam is in place.
 
Thanks guys, I think I'm just going to put in a proper pole and be done with it. Maybe in the future I can re structure it to have an open span. Just seems it's a bigger can of worms than what I want to tackle right now.
 
One more quick question though, would the permit office have a copy of my building plan? The garage was built in 2006
 
RobMcBee said:
One more quick question though, would the permit office have a copy of my building plan? The garage was built in 2006
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That depends on whether the PO was a good boy and pulled a permit when he built it :D
 
Doubt they kept copies, regardless.
 
a_kelley said:
Oh heres another thought... Mount an I Beam under the beam and support it at the ends... No joist removal required for that..
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Someone else had mentioned that previously, I asked what size Beam would be large enough. 6 or 8"
 
RobMcBee said:
Someone else had mentioned that previously, I asked what size Beam would be large enough. 6 or 8"
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Neither.

Are there load bearing walls upstairs? You're looking at a W12 or bigger either way.
 
shawn said:
Neither.

Are there load bearing walls upstairs? You're looking at a W12 or bigger either way.
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No upstairs is open no walls on the inside. Just the exterior walls. Roof is completely supported by exterior walls. This Beam supports nothing but the floor joist and floor above.
 
shawn said:
<-- has personally attended a house party where the floor collapsed.
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Were fat girls and jump ropes involved....
check that I dont want the answer.
 
Why are you limited to a 12" beam? I just put 2x 24" LVLs up a span of 22' without issue. Likely overkill, but stories of fat chicks and jump ropes make me worry...
 
92_SquareEye said:
Why are you limited to a 12" beam? I just put 2x 24" LVLs up a span of 22' without issue. Likely overkill, but stories of fat chicks and jump ropes make me worry...
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Trying to not have to take out the two lvl's already in place. I'd rather just re enforce what's already there. I have plenty of ceiling height (10') so just adding to it wouldn't interfere with headroom.


I'm mainly just wanting the floor space to set up a table saw station. I may just have to re think my set up, because I'd like to be able to move my Jeep in and out also...
 
Two hours with a sawzall and some joist hangers.:smokin:
 
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