Extending a reciever Hitch

Ridgerunner

Ridgerunner

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Location
Fuquay Varina, NC
In order to tow my trailer with my camper I need extend my hitch 14" so the trailer will not hit my camper.

truck GVW 10500, camper 2400, Trailer 1700+5000(jeep)=6700lbs

What is the best/cheapest way to go

I know I will need to use a load equilizing hitch. I have thought about building the extention and then using 2 2x2x1/4 tubes at angle from each side

Like this
ai180.photobucket.com_albums_x231_Ridgerunnerras_hitch.jpg


Any comments
 
After the obligatory "I wouldn't do it" I will tell you that Northern Tool sells an extension that is made to attach a bike rack and a hitch and extends about the amount you are looking to do.
 
A bud of ours has a Dodge 3500 CC 4x4 w/ 24V and a "frickin' HUGE" drop in camper. When I say huge... there's a KINGsize bed in the portion above the cab, 6'3" headroom, and the backend is 4' aft of the bed/hangs just above the bottom edge of the bumper... sleeps 4 adults easily or 16 hippies.

Anyways, he shows up towing a 40' tri-axle bumper pull (carrying 2 Jeeps...approx. 15K trailer gross). Knowing how far out/down the insert sits, I think "WTF is the trailer attached to?". Absolutely mortified me to see a 5 FOOT "extension" with a couple chains angling back to the frame! :eek::eek::eek::eek:

Says he had the local "trailer place" outfit him... I know people do this everyday and you're only talking 14", but Fawk that noise! Common sense shows an "extension" can (will) leverage enough force to twist the factory Class III mounts off the frame... not unlike Ricky's 28" drop hitch :shaking:
 
Is 18" just the amount the camper overhangs ? Does that include the amount/stick out of the ball insert ?

What the measurement on your trailer from the front of the deck to the ball ?

x2 on pulling the tongue out... I had mine built with the tongue pulled out about 1' extra. It would help in your situation but I like it because it allows me to jackknife the trailer when backing up for better maneuvering. Plus would give you more of a step area when climbing in/out when hooked up..
 
saf-t scissors said:
http://www.torklift.com/p.php?w_page=superhitch

Not particularly different from what you're describing.
Click to expand...

I have seen that and that is where I got the Idea.

I agree that just an extension by its self would not be very good.

Yager,
the 14 inches is from the hitch to the back edge of the camper. my hitch allready will decrease that buy 6 inches so I may need only a 7-8 inche extesion. the problem is my trailer jack is through the hitch and with the pivot point under the back of the camper it will hit.

That hitch from torklift can handle alot even with a long extension. it does not seen very complicated to build.

here is a pic show my trailer
hpim25331.jpg
 
The ONE version I have seen of this that appears to be well thought out and safe is a TRIPLE hitch.

Basically there are three holes to insert the Hitch into the back of the truck, so basically 3 receivers in the back of the truck and a much beefier mount to the frame etc

The hitch extensions are for sale but as stated it is the class 3, 4 or 5 hitch that worries us the most, otherwise it could get ripped off the frame itself.
 
Ridgerunner said:
I have seen that and that is where I got the Idea.

I agree that just an extension by its self would not be very good.

Yager,
the 14 inches is from the hitch to the back edge of the camper. my hitch allready will decrease that buy 6 inches so I may need only a 7-8 inche extesion. the problem is my trailer jack is through the hitch and with the pivot point under the back of the camper it will hit.

That hitch from torklift can handle alot even with a long extension. it does not seen very complicated to build.

here is a pic show my trailer
Click to expand...

I would move that jack like mine

trailer_top%20006.jpg
 
Carl, I don't know if these would get you enough extension... but with a WD hitch setup you can get longer shanks. I chose the 10" shank because I didn't want the extra length. I believe Mr. Gadget has the 12" shank...and I see they have a 14" shank. If you want to look at how the WD hitch setup works, stop by...

http://www.etrailer.com/c-WDS.htm
 
...one more thing to consider though is that the farther back the WD "head" is, the more likely it will be that it may drag (like pulling into a sloped driveway).
 
Tetanus said:
Carl, I don't know if these would get you enough extension... but with a WD hitch setup you can get longer shanks. I chose the 10" shank because I didn't want the extra length. I believe Mr. Gadget has the 12" shank...and I see they have a 14" shank. If you want to look at how the WD hitch setup works, stop by...

http://www.etrailer.com/c-WDS.htm
Click to expand...

So Craig are you saying that Jon has a 2" longer shank than you? :flipoff2:

Sorry I could not let that one go without a coment
 
x2 on the WD hitch, also i mounted my jack to the side and its 10x easier to pull the pin on the drop leg. I mounted it inline with the tongue, made it easier to crank, and not waste the entire tongue area.
 
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