Ford 5.4L HELP...got bigger issues now HELP

krehel24 said:
Do you have the ability to do a leak down test?
You could have a bad valve guide, you would notice it at idle but after that probably not. If you can do a leak down you can't have more the a 10% leak down. Good luck!!

BTW you could buy a toyota and solve all your problems! :flipoff2:
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thanks buddy. wasn't my first choice of trucks...i like the chevy since they are easier to work on and seem to be more reliable in my personal experience and had chance to sell this to someone but told him i gotta get this thing running top notch before selling even though he didn't think it was noticeable but maybe someone whose not a mechanic wouldn't notice what i notice (i get that a lot with jeeps) but for now, its a nice truck and i like it a lot so probably will keep it once i get it running 100% lol. worst case scenario, drive it and down the road i know i'm gonna pull the heads and rebuild from the heads up with all new polished valves,timing,cams,etc. and have the heads decked and checked so i'm just trying to get the most out of it until then!
 
i can't even begin to desire to remove the exhaust manifolds...i'm scared!!LOL...half the bolt heads are not even there and the other half are looking like prunes rather than bolts so i know heads gotta come off when i wanna replace those gaskets...lucky they don't leak but the passenger very bottom rear has very slight leak on cold startup.
 
Check out the wiring on your injectors.... We just went through this on my excursion and it turned out to be an injector connector not being plugged in good(the pins was bent)
 
snappy said:
Check out the wiring on your injectors.... We just went through this on my excursion and it turned out to be an injector connector not being plugged in good(the pins was bent)
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will do. thank you. next week i'll get back at it tinkering with it on my down time since my jeep is done and ready and now i can just focus on this.
 
OH YEAH, Happy Mothers Day to All!!! Hope Everyone enjoys their day tomorrow and many blessings to you all and your families/wives/ and mothers!! thanks for your help so far. Much Appreciated.
 
John Fuller said:
..... only time i could notice the skip/miss is when in overdrive at that certain speed it shakes the truck when feathering the gas but otherwise it climbed back up the mountain at 55 effortlessly. i didn't test the coils..2 techs did at Clark Tire who i know to be very good certified techs and with 3 different types of computer/diagnostic tests, they said all the coils were reading out fine....
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I still believe you have a weak coil pack. I had an Acura Integra once that wouldn't even start. Everyone told me it was most likely the coil. I tested it per the manual instructions, and it passed the test. I replaced every other part of the ignition system and it still wouldn't run. Finally put a coil on it, and it ran like a champ. Also, the cats will not cause a skip/miss, you will lose power and the truck will seem like it is struggling to make it up to speed (or up hills), depending on how bad they are.
 
Ive never heard of a clogged cat causing a miss/skip at idle. If the truck pulls strong when you stand on the gas, then dont waste your money replacing them.
 
alright then thanks for that advise guys...i will hold off on Cats then since it seems to not be the issue by everyone now,lol. i guess i'm going to keep replacing coils until they are all new for now.
 
Jody Treadway said:
You asked for a professional opinion and I'll give it to you, again.
Replace ALL the coils, at the same time, with OEM or better quality ones.
Do what you wish, but there's what you asked for.
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got it. btw, as far as "better quality" i get better price on Accel Coils so is that good choice...my discount makes them $12cheaper for each one compared to OEM ones. i ask cause i noticed lots of people say to stick with "Ford OEM" stuff only so i ask before buying 8 Accel coils. thanks
 
Ohh yeah Update just now for "ruling out" purposes: I did the "dollar bill/paper trick" and no drawback at all...consistently bowing papers away even at the little low idle it does still no sucking action so i guess i'm pretty happy with that (considering 200K miles, i guess someone took descent care of this truck and didn't abuse it). this week hope to be able to order all the coils. thanks guys and will those Accell COils work
 
Get lifetime warranty coils. My mechanic friend said the accels are nice, but the warranty is nicer.
 
well thanks. i will get the accel then if they work good...my guy gives me warranty on everything even if it doesn't come with it. He's good to me like that lol.
 
i done one last test to even more verify engine condition which to my surprise for mileage of this motor, did vacuum test and it read 16 steady and when i snap throttle goes to 5ish then right back up to 16 steady and when riding rpms slowly to WOT, vacuum stayed and rose a little more so from these readings according to my vacuum gauge this is normal running engine with no burnt valves/sticking valves or any such issues so i am done bothering everyone now LOL, until i replace all the coils and will update then.
 
I agree that you probably have a coIL that is braking down when it gets hot, but an FYI a vacuum gauge will not show you valve guide, ring, ect condition like a leak down test will. if the skip is totally random then it is most likely a electrical issue (ie coil, wiring to coil, ect) if it only skips at idle, or when cold or something that is more consistent then you need to look at valve guides, rings, head, plugs ect..

You need to determine when it skips and prove your findings, then you will know witch way to go with it.

Jody mentioned replacing ALL the coils, YOU NEED TO LISTEN TO HIM!!!
 
krehel24 said:
Jody mentioned replacing ALL the coils, YOU NEED TO LISTEN TO HIM!!!
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oh i am..i'm saving for that next. i just ran all those other tests just to help myself learn and to see what some of those test would show and i agree vacuum test don't always show everything, but along with other test I did, it helped with a little more confidence that the motor internally is in descent shape for it's age. coils are coming next and keeping my fingers crossed they work...if not, well I'll just keep replacing parts until everything is all new lol which wouldn't hurt anyways for my DD and Tow Rig.
 
As long as you keep decent oil in them, those engines have a reputation for lasting a long time. 300k is not unusual. But they are also know for killing coil packs frequently.
 
One of our work trucks is my father in laws 04 f150 with the 5.4. It has around 240000 miles on it right now. It had the trans rebuilt a couple years ago because it lost reverse. We had some guys that work for us put diesel in the tank and caused us to replace the cats but other than that and a few coils that recently went south it has never had any thing but brakes put on it. His truck almost sounds like a diesel when at idle. I've been told it is from the cam phasers (no idea what that is) but he says it's done that since almost new.

I've always been a chevy man but his truck rides great and handles pulling small enclosed trailers and gutter machines around well. Get that thing right and I'm sure you'll like it.
 
strange1 said:
As long as you keep decent oil in them, those engines have a reputation for lasting a long time. 300k is not unusual. But they are also know for killing coil packs frequently.
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yeah I've been told and learned that these 2v 5.4 are not as powerful as newer ones but stronger and more durable since they are simpler (no cam phasers and all the other mumble jumble) so i'm glad i ended up with this motor rather than newer ones. i guess as long as spark plugs stay in tact,lol, and timing doesn't go they will last a while. It's really cool how they can't overheat apparently cause of some coolant sensor that diverts compression to cool engine if you run out of coolant..that really got me.
 
YotaOnRocks said:
I've been told it is from the cam phasers (no idea what that is) but he says it's done that since almost new.
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yep its the phasers..i did all my research on that and 04 and up they redone the 5.4 but lucky for me i have the older simpler version so i don't have that, just plain jane cams and timing chains (which is still pretty penny on parts but easier to change). I do like the Ford even though I too am a chevy guy but it will grow on me. It's got the factory LS rear, 4x4 works perfect, no rust, interior really clean, bed is clean no rust, factory towing package, alloy wheels, and extended cab which was the Number one seller for me. i would've liked to have a 2WD version of this truck for pulling purposes/gas mileage but it works. Got me a set of nice 245s over the weekend so going from 265s to 245s will help out descent bit with power/mileage/towing.
 
SOMEONE WHO IS REALLY SMART AND INNOVATIVE HELP!! started on replacing coils and number 4 plug (where Heli Coil was!!!!!!!) WELL.....u guessed it...plug is stuck and won't come out. it loosened up and is loose..don't know how far up it came but someone got any ideas of how to get it. i have intake off but needle nose pliers aren't helping. HELP...i really don't have the money to pull the head right now with timing and haskets and all. thanks anyone heard of any "homemade" contraption someone has used to get one out...are there any other pliers type things that would fit in there but get a better grip..it just spins and spins in reverse but won't come. Could i crank the engine and have the compression blow it out rest of the way???or is that stupid idea? thanks guys (just my luck with this)
oh, btw:::: i think i know what the problem was with it missing now...must've been arcing on that heli coil since the misfire was always on 4....
 
So, the plug is out just can't get it lifted out of the hole? Are you using a spark plug socket with the rubber piece inside to hold the plug, or a regular socket?
 
My advice, if any of the plugs have thread repairs, do not touch them. Trying to remove that plug will most likely pull the thread repair out with it. Pay a mechanic. You aren't prepared to do that level of work yourself.
 
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