Hardbody SAS

WeRideNTruX said:
that shackle angle might ride a little rough but that is where calmini says to put the holes, are you using waggy springs?
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yea im using the 4" lift waggy springs like they did, and yea nothing against calmini great guys, helpfull, and great products but i wish they designed the kit a little better
 
The springs should sag a little, after using a while. Then the shackle angle will improve.
 
Put the back tires of the truck on the ground and jack stands under the front axle so that the load is only on the axles just like it would be at static ride. Then take your angle finder and measure what angle the frame rail is to the ground say its tilted to the rear 3*. Then measure with the angle finder again across the top of an inner C front to rear to see where your caster angle is. Say you set it at 5* then you level the truck out from 3* to 0* now your caster will be 2* if that makes sence.
In your pictures it looks like with the pinion that high there's no way you could have a good caster angle. Remember positive caster (Good) is when the upper bj is behind the lower bj. I'm gonna guess and say that with 4" waggy's your not gonna be able to get more than around 4* of caster if you want to keep front driveshafts in the truck. The only other option would be cutting and turning the inner C's
I ran into some pretty big issues doing this same swap on an isuzu trooper a while back. In my case the passenger spring perch was cast into the diff housing so I was pretty much stuck with my caster/pinion where ever the spring angle came out. I ended up with a 23" long front driveshaft that at ride height was a 42* angle. It was a mother and unfortunately I think you may have similar problems due to the tall springs.
Basically you need to forget about pinion angle and worry more about getting the caster right.
 
Right, thanks Chris, But ima use new spring perches and go SOA insted of the stock waggy 44 which is SUA and the reason im getting pinion angle is to know how much to get the C's rotate when i get them turned, but now im thinking money and time wise about not getting them turned at the moment and just welding the perches on to keep stock caster which was 8* or maybe going 5*, especailly since im not putting the front drive shaft in for a while. What do you think? thanks
 
Yea I know it's soa. Thats what I was referring to. If you don't get them turned I think you can make it work. It'll just be a bear to get a front shaft that'll run at that angle. Are you planning to run a cv front or single joint shaft? I think with your setup you'd be better to run non cv which will also be cheaper.

Set it at 5* and I'm sure you can eventually get a front shaft that'll work without turning the C's
 
Yea ok thanks for the help and im geussing cv but i havent looked into it much. And ill shoot for 5* that should give me any trubble ant higher speeds if i run 37s should it?
 
ok, dang should i shoot for closer to 8* cause i was kinda hopeing to use 1" or less wheel spacers depending on how narrow it would be
 
What backspacing are the wheels you're planning to run? You may be okay with that. Another thing to think about that'll help road manners with a tall spring like that would be a panhard bar. Not good for trail use but it keeps the whole front end tighter on the street.
 
the back spacing of my wheels are 3.63, what about like a sway bar with long quick disconects? Just thinking out loud
 
isnt the waggy axle like and inch narrower than the h233b mean you kinda need spacers? im not sure on this as i plan on full widths so i havnt looked into axle widths since my last hardbody project.
 
Gave you a call. I like the shackle to point slighty toward the spring with no load. If its already broke over or pointing rearward without the spring compressed the shackle will bind early and not allow the spring to naturally flatten out on its upward stroke. Measure the spring eye to eye uncompressed then measure the spring eye to eye as if it where flattened out. This is the needed "shackle" stroke to properly use all the travel of a given spring pack. The distance usually isn't significant but any less will cause binding bent leaves a harsh ride and premature failure.
 
spring preches welded on and axle, knuckles, U-bolts, and spring plates painted. Hopefully i can get pictures tomorrow b/c my sister has "misplaced" the camera :shaking:
 
Picture of painted axle
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haha to tell you the truth i do, i know its not safe but ive only busted my ass a couple times:shaking:haha
 
LOL, it's not the ass I'm worried about, it's the toes, LOL.

Anyway, good looking rig man and I can't wait to see it finished.
 
So i took one leaf out and i think its were im going to keep it for now. The shackle angle is alot better and there isnt as much height.
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A little binding test, but thats as far as the jack would go up. So far so good
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I should be getting my Ruffstuff steering kit tomorrow and be able to finish the truck this weekend. But for now heres one brake line installed, but the other side i messed up the threads and it wont thread into the new brake line so i gotta fix that. Oh and the brake line kit is from BJ's Offroad
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