Hardbody SAS

Nissanwheeler

Nissanwheeler

Active Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2010
Location
kannapolis NC
Ok so Ive been working on this truck since i was 15. the truck was given to me by my pawpaw when he passed away. After i turned 16 i took out to play in the mud and after getting stuck twice i knew i wanted bigger tires and a lift. It started out as a 3" suspension lift and a 2 weeks before i was scheduled at Galloways to get it put on i decide 3"s wasnt enough so i bought a 3" body lift as well. I had done my research and i figured id be fine for some light wheeling. Man was i wrong. After my first trip to Uwharrie i was hooked. The trip ended in me bending a tie rod on the dutch john trail. i didnt think much about it i just replacled the tie rod and went on. But my second trip also ended in the bending of the same tie rod but on Dickey bell. This is when i started to re-think about the suspension. After replacing the tie rod i put a couple miles on the truck and i noticed the play in the steering and the slight camber issue. To replace all the parts it was gonna cost to much for me to keep replacing it every time i went wheeling and thats when i started looking at the SAS option. After a while of driving on the bad steering and ball joints it got to where i couldnt drive it any more so i knew it was SAS time.

A little about the truck.
1994 Nissan Hardbody (d21)
V6
4x4
Custom tube power coated bumpers
3" body lift
3" suspension lift
35 Mickey Tompson MTZ baja

Plans for front:
dana 44
calmini front hanger
calmini through frame shackles
waggy 4" lift inch leaf springs
4.88s or 5.13s havent decided
spartan locker

Plans for rear(eventually)
14 bolt
4.88s or 5.13s
arb locker or powertraxx

Tires:
37s or 38s
steel bullet hole wheels with a red beadlock
Time for some pics.

stock:
(sorry i dont know how to resize them)
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heres one befor i cut her up
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reason for SAS
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tearing apart dana 44
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ditching the IFS
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after torching the brackets and cutting holes for shackles
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continued...
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leaf spring mock up
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Axle under the truck
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What still needs to be done to drive:
Cut the driver side spring perch to fit
get the C's turned (about 8 degrees)
get the knuckle drilled for high steer
weld the front hanger and shackles
get steering figured out
clean frame up
get shocks and mounts
rebuild the dana 44

thats all i can think of for now but more tomorrow!
 
yea i havent welded anything and the front hanger is being held up by zip ties so i cant put much weight on the springs but im hoping the shackles will swing back when the load is on them ut i might have to move the hanger back just a little
 
finally got the bushings seated, took for ever.
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I had to take the bumper off today because the front hanger needs to be flush with the frame. I have to cut the bumper mount off and grind down the frame and everything else has to be brushed for welding, hopefully i can get it welded before i go to the beach friday
 
what front springs are you using? could you take a few good pics of how/where you weld on that spring hanger?
 
89Pathy94 said:
what front springs are you using? could you take a few good pics of how/where you weld on that spring hanger?
Click to expand...
Im useing the 4" lift 80's grand wagoneer front springs. I have welded it yet its held on by zip ties right now :lol: but i should have it welded this week sometime and ill take lots of pics.
 
i would like to take it off but i just havent decide im see what it looks like after im done and if its too tall i will but im hoping that since the waggy springs are so soft that my ride height wont be but and inch or two from what it was. but thats just hoping haha
 
nice build. i love those nissan trucks. that from spring hanger crossmember looks nice. is that a pre-made kit for those trucks or did you fabricate that?
 
thanks, thats good to hear not a lot of people appreciate these little trucks. hope to see a build on it when you decide SAS it:beer:
 
Finally, after a week vacation, a little blood, alot of sweat and a serious case of flash burn.:shaking:, the welding is complete.
Tomorrow im going to set the weight of the truck on the axle so i can get the measurements "WARRIORWELDING" needs to cut and turn the C's. Then hopfully by the end of next week i can start rebuilding the axle.
Here are some pics of the welds.
Front hanger Gussets
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Front hanger welds
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Back of the front hanger
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through frame shackle welds(I will get better pictures tomorrow)
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Shackle bushings seated again and shackles back on
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Tomorrow i have to get a angle finder and gets some measurements off the axle then i can sit the weight of the truck on it and find my pinion angle.
 
Little help needed

To day i got the axle under the truck and measured where i want my pinion angle. I think I already know the answer to this question but does it matter if the truck is caompletely level to get the correct angle measeurements? Heres how i did it, is this wrong?
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Stock pinion angle is 10 degrees and stock caster about 7 degrees, i say about because im not sure if i measured correctly. After the weight of the truck was set on the axle i pointed the U-joint directly and the transfercase, this gave me an angle of 21 degrees. If i did this wrong point me in the right direction please.
Also what do you guys think about this shackle angle?
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your front pinion angle isn't nearly as important as your caster angle. A good caster angle for lifted trucks is 4-6 degrees. i usually setup jeeps at 5-6 degrees positive caster (where top of inner c is pointed rearward). if you tilt the caster too close to 0 you will not be able to locate the road with your truck and it'll drive awful. put your caster to the factory 7degrees and see how the driveshaft angle looks. that is the one disadvantage to low pinion axles up front. good luck. let me know if you have any other questions.

o, and you definitely want the weight of the vehicle on the suspension / axle.
 
OK thanks. But does the truck have to be level to get the accurate measurements? and yea im just getting the measurements together so i can turn the C's to get corect caster and pinion angle.
 
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