Just another YJ build

WARRIORWELDING said:
@StretchASU Since y'all are on steering.....does the Astro set up go in the factory spot?
@drkelly. You obviously moved yours. Why not the astro route?

Looking at pros and cons for each. I will be running my Reid high stear stuff. Most likely 3 link. Not four link since I'm ditching the full hydro. Unless I go parrallel four link with a panhard bar.....that's a lot to package.

Edit: I don't think you lost much structure with the winch tray. Especially if you have a rear lip turned up or down.
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Mine I’m pretty sure is in the stock spot. With the pitman arm that’s on it, it swings below the springs since the PO ran a Y link style steering setup on his Superduty axles. I’m still undecided on doing that or switching to a flat arm, with the arm end of the drag link mounted to the top of the arm. TBD. That’s my next project to tackle once the rear end is on its own weight. I’m leaning toward a different pitman arm and going full high steer since my axles have arms on them already and I would like the clearance.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
@StretchASU Since y'all are on steering.....does the Astro set up go in the factory spot?
@drkelly. You obviously moved yours. Why not the astro route?

Looking at pros and cons for each. I will be running my Reid high stear stuff. Most likely 3 link. Not four link since I'm ditching the full hydro. Unless I go parrallel four link with a panhard bar.....that's a lot to package.

Edit: I don't think you lost much structure with the winch tray. Especially if you have a rear lip turned up or down.
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It seemed like the Astro box would be in the way of the linkage moving up and down as the suspension cycled. The way I have it set up, the drag link and tie rod are parallel at ride height with the tires straight. I think this will result in fantastic steering.

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drkelly said:
It seemed like the Astro box would be in the way of the linkage moving up and down as the suspension cycled. The way I have it set up, the drag link and tie rod are parallel at ride height with the tires straight. I think this will result in fantastic steering.

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I see a little "low rider" c-notch in the works.
 
The build is looking good man.:beer: These are probably my favorite types of jeeps to work on and modify. I'm digging the front and rear custom crossmembers with the 8274 the best winch ever made.:huggy: That front crossmember/winch plate/bumper is beefy and badass. I like the way it lowers the winch and is also a shackle spring mount. Good work man!
 
spraypaintman said:
The build is looking good man.:beer: These are probably my favorite types of jeeps to work on and modify. I'm digging the front and rear custom crossmembers with the 8274 the best winch ever made.:huggy: That front crossmember/winch plate/bumper is beefy and badass. I like the way it lowers the winch and is also a shackle spring mount. Good work man!
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Yeah, I hope he takes it as a compliment when a slightly copied version lands on another YJ!
 
I've never had stock motor mounts hold up in previous wheeling rigs, so I bought some Brown Dog HD motor mounts. The 4.0 block also has a reputation for stock mounting bosses breaking off.

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I finally made some progress with the steering.

Here is what I ended up using:
- High steer arms with knuckle tie in kit from Fourwheelsuppy.net
- Flat pitman arm from Parts Mike
- PSC hydro assist ram
- 3/8" thick spacers to raise up the high steer arms
- reused my old tie rod but installed new rod ends
- built a new drag link


I installed a 1.5" long spacer inside the ram to limit the travel to 6.5". The ram travel runs out at the same time as the knuckle stops hit.

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I drilled the drag link hole in the pitman arm at 5.5" from the output shaft.

I drilled the high steer arm tie rod holes along a straight line from the king pin center to the knuckle tie in bolt to preserve the proper ackerman angle.

The drag link is parallel with the tie rod at ride height.

The pitman arm still has about 1/4" of throw left in each direction when the knuckle stops hit, so I should be able to always achieve full steering lock in both directions.

I'm happy with how it ended up, but now I have to do some serious notching of the frame rails in order to have any up-travel. The front end will probably sit about 1" lower once the winch, grill, radiator etc are reinstalled.

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I designed some low profile spring perches for the rear, and my friend at work cut them out for me.

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paradisePWoffrd said:
Are you using stock yj springs. Just relocated?

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Yes. The full weight is not on the rear right now though with no fuel, no back seat, no front seats, no spare tire, etc.
 
I use benchmark exclusively when I can remember to order them. Prices are fair and the flap disks are second to none in my opinion.

edit* there’s a discount code floating around that will get you an assortment of flap disks for just the cost of shipping for your first order
 
I just noticed on your first post that the tire cover is checkered flag dealership here in my neck of the woods! Was that tire original??


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NickMaul said:
I just noticed on your first post that the tire cover is checkered flag dealership here in my neck of the woods! Was that tire original??


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Yes, the stock spare was still on the Jeep! I've still got it, LOL. There is a wheel lock holding it on the spare tire carrier. I don't have the wheel lock key, so I just unbolted the tire carrier from the tailgate with the tire still on it.
 
The joints in my steering shaft were loose, so I bought a new one, then cut it and extended it with a piece of tubing for the forward steering box position.

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Nice frame mods! Are you liking the Lincoln 180?
 
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