Lawn and Landscape

[drkelly]

Mine looks just as bad even with irrigation. The grub worms have played havoc this year again

That is not what I was hoping to hear!

Same here. It was beautiful until mid-late july, then just started slipping away. I tilled up half of it yesterday in preparation for reseeding because it had NO vegetation in it.

Mine was hanging on pretty good up until mid-late July too, but then somebody shut the faucet in the sky off.

 

[frankenyoter]

I'm about to lime my lawn before the Matthew rain hits.

 

[RobMcBee]

I aerated and overseeded a couple weeks ago, gonna overseed again this week. I treated my grub problem, but they'll return next year, as they always do. I just play it off as the price you pay to have fescue in the south....

 

[shawn]

What you need is some Bermuda...

 

[TARider]

What you need is some Bermuda...

My neighbor keeps trying to make sure I have some. Keep getting rid of it and it keeps creeping back from his side. Next year I'm either going to burn his yard down or give up.

 

[drkelly]

FUCK BERMUDA.

That is all.

What you need is some Bermuda...

Lol! If you cant beat it, learn to love it?

A guy that i BS with between sets at the gym has done exactly that. He overseeds with a bit of fescue every fall, and puts down some weed and feed every spring, but doesnt go crazy trying to kill it every year by spraying and stuff.

 

[shawn]

Nah, I want you to plant some Bermuda, so next year you post wanting to know how to keep that shit from growing across your driveway.

 

[drkelly]

1 month and more than a few dollars later I have a lawn again.

 

[99JeepXJ]

Had my lawn aerated and I overseeded with fescue right after. Watered for 3.5 weeks, twice daily and my yard has finally came back. Since we haven't got much rain other than Matthew here in Charlotte, it started to thin but Ive got the sprinkler running once daily. I also decided to overseed again since its been pretty mild this far. Two questions, during a dry spell here in this area with clay being the soil around me, is it best to water first thing in am, like 6 am, or in the evening? Also, most fertilizers say wait 3 weeks from seeding, but which fertilizer is best for a new lawn going into winter?

 

[R Q]

Had my lawn aerated and I overseeded with fescue right after. Watered for 3.5 weeks, twice daily and my yard has finally came back. Since we haven't got much rain other than Matthew here in Charlotte, it started to thin but Ive got the sprinkler running once daily. I also decided to overseed again since its been pretty mild this far. Two questions, during a dry spell here in this area with clay being the soil around me, is it best to water first thing in am, like 6 am, or in the evening? Also, most fertilizers say wait 3 weeks from seeding, but which fertilizer is best for a new lawn going into winter?

Watering in morning is best but just do it when you can. That applies mostly to summer watering so you don't promote fungus. You should wait 5-6 weeks to apply a winter fert usually and be sure not to put too much out, you can burn/ruin new seedlings, I even done it myself. Make sure to read how much the bag covers and then know how much turf you have and follow directions closely. I use Lesco 30-0-8 for my winter application. It has slow release nitrogen and also some Iron for extra greening.

 

[99JeepXJ]

Watering in morning is best but just do it when you can. That applies mostly to summer watering so you don't promote fungus. You should wait 5-6 weeks to apply a winter fert usually and be sure not to put too much out, you can burn/ruin new seedlings, I even done it myself. Make sure to read how much the bag covers and then know how much turf you have and follow directions closely. I use Lesco 30-0-8 for my winter application. It has slow release nitrogen and also some Iron for extra greening.

Thanks! So would waiting til beginning of Dec to fertilize be bad or does it really not matter too much? Seems based off forecast it'll be mild thru next week here in Charlotte

 

[drkelly]

Also, most fertilizers say wait 3 weeks from seeding, but which fertilizer is best for a new lawn going into winter?

I always put down 'starter' fertilizer at the same time as the seed. It seems to work well. I then put down 'winterizer' fertilizer about two months later. I'm not an expert though.

 

[R Q]

Had my lawn aerated and I overseeded with fescue right after. Watered for 3.5 weeks, twice daily and my yard has finally came back. Since we haven't got much rain other than Matthew here in Charlotte, it started to thin but Ive got the sprinkler running once daily. I also decided to overseed again since its been pretty mild this far. Two questions, during a dry spell here in this area with clay being the soil around me, is it best to water first thing in am, like 6 am, or in the evening? Also, most fertilizers say wait 3 weeks from seeding, but which fertilizer is best for a new lawn going into winter?

I always put down 'starter' fertilizer at the same time as the seed. It seems to work well. I then put down 'winterizer' fertilizer about two months later. I'm not an expert though.

Wait, maybe I misinterpreted the original post. You should have fertilized with Starter fert when you seeded. Did you? If not then put it down ASAP! If you were asking about when to apply Winter fert then go with my answer above or early December as you asked. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

 

[99JeepXJ]

Wait, maybe I misinterpreted the original post. You should have fertilized with Starter fert when you seeded. Did you? If not then put it down ASAP! If you were asking about when to apply Winter fert then go with my answer above or early December as you asked. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

I asked the guys who did the aeration and they said wait to fertilize til end of October pending weather. So I didn't fertilize yet, just over seeded again so I'll go get some starter fertilizer today and spread it. After the aeration and first over seed the grass looked great, just lack of rain stunned its growth so that's where I'm at. I'll get on that asap, thanks guys

 

[99JeepXJ]

Another question for you experienced guys, I'll have put y'all on retainer... In my backyard where my steps come down from porch it's a high traffic area for myself and two dogs. Every time it rains we all track dirt and mud through the house. After awhile it's clear there were bricks under the soil which probably doesn't help grass grow but I'd like to put some stone there. I was thinking of using some treated wood and make a frame but I'm unsure if I'll need to dig a few inches out first then make frame and add stone or just dig a couple inches for the frame itself and add the stone? The part I'm insure of is if I dig out for the frame and stone will it puddle up when we have hard rain versus the other way mentioned? Here's a couple pictures of said area, excuse the dirtiness...

I originally wanted to build a small deck out a few feet and two the sides but the wife doesn't want to put money into a house we won't live in forever plus I'm building a garage soon cause I can't live without one obviously. Thoughts?

 

[shawn]

Well... I'm a glutton for labor intensive yard projects... but I'd be tempted to dig that whole area down about 4 inches, lay a stone dust bed with 1/8" slope, and put down concrete pavers in a 8 to 10 foot diameter circle. Maybe a fancy sunburst or something. You probably want to rent a plate tamper to get the pavers bedded down.

Similarly, you could buy some of the cheapo 12" square pavers from Lowe's and do the same thing, but for less money. If you go that route, I'd still do the stone bed and hand tamp it to get a solid base.

 

[drkelly]

I built a small path last winter similar to what you are wanting to do. I think I dug down roughly 6", put down 2.5-3" of gravel, then maybe 1.5" of paver sand and some 2" thick stones with small pebble stones to fill the gaps. I used rectangular edging stones for the sides, but you could use treated wood. Sizing the stones to fit with each other was very labor intensive, but I am happy with how it turned out.

@RenegadeT had a similar problem as you and did some kind of pavers.

 

[99JeepXJ]

Definitely like the idea of having something like this that's appealing to the eye. I don't mind doing work like this as I work behind a desk all day so I look for excuses as well!
You would suggest any poly sand or should I leave the joints open for draining?

 

[R Q]

Your house is the one with the front drainage issues too, right? It looks like your landing area is a bit lower than the surrounding soil. Get yourself a 4' level (or a straight 2x4 with a smaller level) and lay it across that area to find how low it is and what it will take to make any landing you build to drain away from the existing steps and also not allow water to stand there. Your finished top grade of the pavers should be slightly higher than surrounding soil so it doesnt hold water.
Your options are unlimited from stamped concrete stencils from Lowes to [to grade materials from other suppliers. Lowes and HD also carry many paver options and designs. Decide what you're going to use, then figure out the finished grade of the top of the pavers and then excavate the depth of the paver plus about an inch for some sub base material. For something this small I will sometimes use dry MORTAR mix as my base, tamped down good and smooth with drainage away from the steps and lay pavers on it. Steel edging is an option here also as its thin and unnoticeable. even plastic edging will work since you will be burying it into the grade. Use the polymer sand if you have joints as it seals also.

 

[99JeepXJ]

Correct, it did have drainage issues on the front and side which most was corrected with gutters and extensions for the spouts. I'm building a garage on the side where drainage was an issue so doing French drain over there.

I'll look into costs of different pavers to figure out what is in budget as well as what's needed, don't need to go to crazy here just want something that's not a pit of mud/clay when it rains. My other option is to pave it with concrete as I do plan to make some type of walk way to the garage which if you're looking to the back of the house will be on the right. Whatever I do I will want to keep that in mind so it'll be easy to connect when that time comes.

 

[R Q]

Also meant to add that you can go to Blue Max Materials if you want pro grade products (and great ideas) but I think you can find what you need at Lowes/HD

 

[RenegadeT]

I did shawn's plan b option posted above, used 12" squares from lowes on top of a masons sand layer on top of a stone dust base. I hand compacted with water mist, a rubber mallet and section of 2x6. I know better, but laziness took over... instead of laying rails to drag a screeder board across, I just scrapped with the 2x6, checked the level as I laid the pavers. Swept sand in the cracks, then more 2x6 and rubber mallet to work the sand in. I went cheap on edging, just back filled dirt right to the edge of the pavers, used the 2x6 upright to compact dirt along the edge.
Phase one was a 8'x10'ish pad for trash cans. Phase two, a few years later (pavers are now 11-7/8" sq or so...grrr) was a little walkway to the backyard.

 

[trailhugger]

So it's February and temperatures are doing their usual thing here in central NC... sleet this am and 70 forecast for a couple of days this week.

What do the experts have to say about when to apply pre-emergent and is it worth the time/expense to overseed the fescue? Before or after?

 

[obullfish]

What would a fair price per cubic yard to spread mulch that I purchased from a landscape company? If it matters 25 cubic yards of double ground hardwood mulch.

 

[R Q]

So it's February and temperatures are doing their usual thing here in central NC... sleet this am and 70 forecast for a couple of days this week.

What do the experts have to say about when to apply pre-emergent and is it worth the time/expense to overseed the fescue? Before or after?

You don't overseed within 8 weeks of applying Pre em. What it does is creates a chemical barrier to keep ALL SEEDS from germinating, including your expensive grass seed. Don't apply pre em and fert until first week of March. You will hear all types of opinion but your main target weed is crabgrass and it doesn't germinate until about mid March and even if it were to germinate during a warm spell, any cold snap is going to knock it back down PLUS if you will use Dimension as your pre em, it will kill crabgrass up until a two tiller (Leaf) stage