If you can find someone, $20-40 per yard to spread.What would a fair price per cubic yard to spread mulch that I purchased from a landscape company? If it matters 25 cubic yards of double ground hardwood mulch.
If you can find someone, $20-40 per yard to spread.What would a fair price per cubic yard to spread mulch that I purchased from a landscape company? If it matters 25 cubic yards of double ground hardwood mulch.
You don't overseed within 8 weeks of applying Pre em. What it does is creates a chemical barrier to keep ALL SEEDS from germinating, including your expensive grass seed. Don't apply pre em and fert until first week of March. You will hear all types of opinion but your main target weed is crabgrass and it doesn't germinate until about mid March and even if it were to germinate during a warm spell, any cold snap is going to knock it back down PLUS if you will use Dimension as your pre em, it will kill crabgrass up until a two tiller (Leaf) stage
All of those are broadleaf and need to be sprayed with a broadleaf weed killer. Pre em does nothing for them The granular products with broadleaf killer in the are not very effective plus they have fert in them that will not be a good idea to apply if you're also doing fert and pre em. Get the hose-end Weed B Gone spray bottles and spray those weeds any time soon on a warm, non windy day. They cover about 3000sq ft per bottle so buy accordingly. You can buy concentrated products that you mix and spray also. If you use the spray bottles, take the cap off before spraying and squirt some Dawn or equivalent dishwashing liquid in there to help the chemical stick to the leaves of the weeds. It will not hurt your fescue at all.Yeah, the rep at the landscape supply store I talked to in October said end of Feb/first of March but to watch the temperatures. We've got oxalis, clover, spurge, centipede, and bermuda we're trying to choke out along with the crabgrass and dandelions.
All of those are broadleaf and need to be sprayed with a broadleaf weed killer. Pre em does nothing for them The granular products with broadleaf killer in the are not very effective plus they have fert in them that will not be a good idea to apply if you're also doing fert and pre em. Get the hose-end Weed B Gone spray bottles and spray those weeds any time soon on a warm, non windy day. They cover about 3000sq ft per bottle so buy accordingly. You can buy concentrated products that you mix and spray also. If you use the spray bottles, take the cap off before spraying and squirt some Dawn or equivalent dishwashing liquid in there to help the chemical stick to the leaves of the weeds. It will not hurt your fescue at all.
(except centipede and bermuda aren't broadleaf)
Get one of these 15 Gallon Spot Sprayer 12 Volt and mount it to the ATV or SXS you've been looking for an excuse to buy. Thats how I do the 3/4 acre of yard I have, and couple miles of dirtbike/atv trails for poison ivy control.Problem is, we've got to spray about 15-20ksf. @trailhugger talked to the local supplier about what to put down/when, etc, and they recommended against pre emergent as well, but because they said with our current coverage and weed issues, we'd be better off trying to kill as much of the weeds and getting more grass seed down.
So she called around to see about getting a service to come kill everything, but they just want to put us on their "program" - starting with pre em, fertilizer, etc, and told us that we shouldn't overseed now. I get it - results aren't going to be great. But if we don't put down more seed and kill all the weeds, there won't be shit else left out there.
Looking at a tow-behind sprayer for the mower, but having trouble figuring out how far the sprays will go. Sounds like it might be worth it just to get the bigger one:
NorthStar Tow-Behind Boom Broadcast and Spot Sprayer 21-Gallon Capacity, 2.2 GPM, 12 Volt DC | Trailer Sprayers| Northern Tool + Equipment
Get one of these 15 Gallon Spot Sprayer 12 Volt and mount it to the ATV or SXS you've been looking for an excuse to buy. Thats how I do the 3/4 acre of yard I have, and couple miles of dirtbike/atv trails for poison ivy control.
Get one of these 15 Gallon Spot Sprayer 12 Volt and mount it to the ATV or SXS you've been looking for an excuse to buy. Thats how I do the 3/4 acre of yard I have, and couple miles of dirtbike/atv trails for poison ivy control.
Look man, I'm just trying to give you an affordable sprayer option to facilitate the unjustifiable SxS purchase. Let's don't get bogged down in real details.Needs to have a boom arm or some kind of broadcast option. I'd buy a dozen hose-end bottles and use those before I'd use a spot sprayer on the whole yard.
So if the Ortho stuff says to wait 2 days after mowing to spray and we mowed after lunch yesterday...is that tomorrow or Wednesday? I'm assuming that's so it doesn't also damage the grass we want to keep?
I need to address my lawn this weekend. I was hoping to address it after doing my paver job I had planned but the nice weather has already started bringing broadleaf weeds.
Side note, for those that use mulch on their property, has anyone used cedar? I've heard it's kinda expensive but the cedar does keep bugs out? My neighbor told me that and he tends to be full of shit but I want to spruce up my front and backyard, with relatively low amount of work and money while I tackle more important jobs.
The reason that you wait is because you just cut off the fresh leaf surface of the weeds that you are trying to kill. You need a little bit of growth for the chemical to be taken in through the leaves and into the plant.; It won't hurt your freshly mowed grass.So if the Ortho stuff says to wait 2 days after mowing to spray and we mowed after lunch yesterday...is that tomorrow or Wednesday? I'm assuming that's so it doesn't also damage the grass we want to keep?
I say plan to aerate heavy, seed, and fertilize with starter fert now. It's optimum time to get seed started. After the new grass has been mowed 2-3 times then you can spray your broadleaf weeds out of it and it won't hurt your new grass. About a week after spraying 24d, apply fert with pre emergent. You may get some crabgrass before that but probably not significant. The ONLY way to kill Bermuda and Centipede is with round up when it is ACTIVELY growing in July August. Unless you have a sprinkler system you probably won't be able to keep a pure fescue stand anyway so yoou may want to learn to live with a mixed stand of "turf" and let what prospers in each area grow. If you choose to kill out bermuda and centipede you have to spray several times starting late July/early August and even dig it up a little to kill bermuda roots.Problem is, we've got to spray about 15-20ksf. @trailhugger talked to the local supplier about what to put down/when, etc, and they recommended against pre emergent as well, but because they said with our current coverage and weed issues, we'd be better off trying to kill as much of the weeds and getting more grass seed down.
So she called around to see about getting a service to come kill everything, but they just want to put us on their "program" - starting with pre em, fertilizer, etc, and told us that we shouldn't overseed now. I get it - results aren't going to be great. But if we don't put down more seed and kill all the weeds, there won't be shit else left out there.
Looking at a tow-behind sprayer for the mower, but having trouble figuring out how far the sprays will go. Sounds like it might be worth it just to get the bigger one:
NorthStar Tow-Behind Boom Broadcast and Spot Sprayer 21-Gallon Capacity, 2.2 GPM, 12 Volt DC | Trailer Sprayers| Northern Tool + Equipment
3 Site One Landscape stores in Raleigh
WELL... since you already put out the weed and feed, sure, lol. It's best to aerate before you seed, apply starter fert, and your seed and then water, water, water. If it's never been limed, you'll need to do that too. I'll repost some details about Spring in the morning, on my way out the door now...@R Q, my yard is a mix of fescue, clover, weeds. My neighbor has a beautiful yard. I'm talking Home and Garden Show Quality, its unreal. I aerated on Sunday and put out Weed/Feed. I am planning on seeding/fert heavy in the coming weeks(after the Weed/Feed has died out.) Does this sound like a good game plan?