Lawn and Landscape

My Yard
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R Q said:
Honestly it's full of weeds! :laughing: Poa Trivialis, Poa Annua, Quackgrass, bermuda, etc., No broadleaf tho! I'm going to start testing a new herbicide to control the Poas shortly. I hope it doesn't F it up! :eek::confused:
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Velocity and Anuew mixed together

Rates 2oz/acre of Velocity, plus 1lb/acre of Anuew wettable powder apps 21 days apart šŸ˜¬

I used velocity 20 years ago when Valent owned the formulation, I sprayed Poa out of Benthrass greens off label and it worked

Nufarm owns the formulation now and converted to a liquid
 
guffey24 said:
Velocity and Anuew mixed together

Rates 2oz/acre of Velocity, plus 1lb/acre of Anuew wettable powder apps 21 days apart šŸ˜¬

I used velocity 20 years ago when Valent owned the formulation, I sprayed Poa out of Benthrass greens off label and it worked

Nufarm owns the formulation now and converted to a liquid
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I just bought some of the Velocity PM to test on my yard. I used regular Velocity a few years ago and it yellowed the crap out of a customer's yard so I'm leery of it. And thanks for the info. I've used some Poa Constrictor also and havent been happy with results. I kept one customer in Prodiamine all fall, winter, and spring and still got Poa Annua enough to piss me off lol
 
R Q said:
I just bought some of the Velocity PM to test on my yard. I used regular Velocity a few years ago and it yellowed the crap out of a customer's yard so I'm leery of it. And thanks for the info. I've used some Poa Constrictor also and havent been happy with results. I kept one customer in Prodiamine all fall, winter, and spring and still got Poa Annua enough to piss me off lol
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We are seeing Poa plants that are resistant to some post emerge applications, I have noticed over the last 15 years the prodiamine applications are getting worse at controlling Poa plants

Itā€™s also very hard to time pre-emerge applications because POA Annua has so many germination cycles
 
I've got some vines I need dead. They have these large root balls like potatoes I've noticed. Seems like the only way to kill them is to dig these massive roots out of the ground. I have been using this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/BAYER-ADVA...4VV5Ci4AvbhixfHEDKBoCrXcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Mainly on the poison ivy and wisteria with some success but the 2-4-d mentioned in the suck ass thread got me to wondering. Is my best plan to eradicate this stuff my current plan? Currently spray the brush killer and dig out any thing it does not kill.
 
R Q said:
Honestly it's full of weeds! :laughing: Poa Trivialis, Poa Annua, Quackgrass, bermuda, etc., No broadleaf tho! I'm going to start testing a new herbicide to control the Poas shortly. I hope it doesn't F it up! :eek::confused:
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crabgrass, and bluegrass prefer low calcium environments
it also prefers poor draining soil which is generally too high in salts like sodium and chloride; and potassium(which should never be used on foliage/lawn)

i would up your game with weekly calcium applications, along with carbon and humate to up your organic matter percent and see if that turns it off
-lime is a poor source, it is positive charged requiring massive CEC. aragonite or calcite is the best, it is negative charged and therefore ready to go. GSR Calcium is electrically modified to make it negative - its an option
-gypsum is not a calcium product, its a sulfur product - steer clear until you need sulfur (with a calcium bonus)
-a good biochar low in ash is an ideal carbon source
-humate - dont use a brand without getting a test from the vendor first showing the aluminum level should be less than 300ppm, ideally <100ppm
 
ghost said:
I've got some vines I need dead. They have these large root balls like potatoes I've noticed. Seems like the only way to kill them is to dig these massive roots out of the ground. I have been using this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/BAYER-ADVA...4VV5Ci4AvbhixfHEDKBoCrXcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Mainly on the poison ivy and wisteria with some success but the 2-4-d mentioned in the suck ass thread got me to wondering. Is my best plan to eradicate this stuff my current plan? Currently spray the brush killer and dig out any thing it does not kill.
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Show a pic of the weed
 
ckruzer said:
crabgrass, and bluegrass prefer low calcium environments
it also prefers poor draining soil which is generally too high in salts like sodium and chloride; and potassium(which should never be used on foliage/lawn)

i would up your game with weekly calcium applications, along with carbon and humate to up your organic matter percent and see if that turns it off
-lime is a poor source, it is positive charged requiring massive CEC. aragonite or calcite is the best, it is negative charged and therefore ready to go. GSR Calcium is electrically modified to make it negative - its an option
-gypsum is not a calcium product, its a sulfur product - steer clear until you need sulfur (with a calcium bonus)
-a good biochar low in ash is an ideal carbon source
-humate - dont use a brand without getting a test from the vendor first showing the aluminum level should be less than 300ppm, ideally <100ppm
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This post right here solidifies my decision to pay the man. šŸ˜‚

Nothing to add other than thanks for this detailed info. This is why forums will live on.
 
ghost said:
First was sprayed 2 weeks ago with brush killer. Second is more of the same vine system.
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The names that I regularly call each of these vines is not their names! :laughing: So I had a hard time searching for control for them. The lower pic is called Greenbriar and is a PITA. The upper vines are not what I called them so I can't even find them on my search. One issue is that your plants are mature and the herbicide isn't absorbing very well on the waxy leaves. But the product that you are using is good even though it's consumer brand. Is this an area that you want to grow something else in or just need to kill it completely?
 
R Q said:
The names that I regularly call each of these vines is not their names! :laughing: So I had a hard time searching for control for them. The lower pic is called Greenbriar and is a PITA. The upper vines are not what I called them so I can't even find them on my search. One issue is that your plants are mature and the herbicide isn't absorbing very well on the waxy leaves. But the product that you are using is good even though it's consumer brand. Is this an area that you want to grow something else in or just need to kill it completely?
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There is a privet and a hackberry tree in that area that are slated to be removed. This crap is all in my fence line and all around those trees and needs to be eradicated. Digging the bulbs out will be a pain because of the fence and the roots. Yes this shit is a PITA! I can't tell all of you how much I appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge and experience.
 
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ghost said:
There is a privet and a hackberry tree in that area that are slated to be removed. This crap is all in my fence line and all around those trees and needs to be irradiated. Digging the bulbs out will be a pain because of the fence and the roots. Yes this shit is a PITA! I can't tell all of you how much I appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge and experience.
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Then if you don't care about the other plants in the area then you can go stronger on your mixture and also add other herbicides to help. Shrub trimmers do a heck of a good job to slice those vines off close to the ground and then you can spray the new, more tender foliage as it emerges. Tractor Supply will have more products to choose from also. But you are making progress as seen in the yellowing of the leaves in your pics.
 
R Q said:
Then if you don't care about the other plants in the area then you can go stronger on your mixture and also add other herbicides to help. Shrub trimmers do a heck of a good job to slice those vines off close to the ground and then you can spray the new, more tender foliage as it emerges. Tractor Supply will have more products to choose from also. But you are making progress as seen in the yellowing of the leaves in your pics.
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I got to thinking about what you said about the waxy leaf and was going to ask if I chop them at the base then spry if that would help... Thanks.
 
skyhighZJ said:
Maybe Iā€™m thinking of something else. Iā€™m pretty sure I have about a half gallon of the stuff kicking around so Iā€™ll check when I get home and report back.
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Yea please do. Because if you know of something that will actually kill wisteria I'm all ears. I have found unless that root is gotten out of the ground it sprouts back a few feet away.
 
ghost said:
Yea please do. Because if you know of something that will actually kill wisteria I'm all ears. I have found unless that root is gotten out of the ground it sprouts back a few feet away.
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That stuff I had would kill it and it would pop up but I just kept after it and it eventually gave up. That shit is created by Satan I swear!
 
I actually bought at least a half dozen jugs of Crossbow concentrate at LowesDepot a couple years ago. Still havenā€™t used the first one up. Iā€™d sell the rest if anyone is interested.
 
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