Lawn and Landscape

I noticed the True-Green signs popping up around the hoods. Not that that is any indication of the correct time to be applying stuff, but they're making a buck doing it already
 
Ok, we had a very good fall for putting in Fescue and Bluegrass from seed. It was warm and wet and my grass did wonderful.

I called Southern Seed and asked what they recommended for a pre-emergent to control crabgrass and broadleafs BEFORE they come up.

The recommended a fertilizer/premerg in one with Barricade made by ProScape as the product that will stop the weeds from germinating.

It was as easy as walking behind the spreader. This stuff needs to be watered in, so try to plan around rain but if not just drag out the sprinkler and get it done.

PUT OUT PREMERG NOW unless you want to fight weeds on their own turf. Lowes and Walmart is not where you get professional products and seed. Find a local pro store and you will be surprised at the great service and results. They are happy to help with advice and products that will make frustration go down to nil.
 
guffey24 said:
There is no crabgrass out right yet, it may be another type of grassy weed, post a picture
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The first pic I am not 100% but think it's smooth CG
The second pic is hairy CG isn't it?

Either way, this warm spell we are about to have will be a great time to roundup edges of beds and 24D any broadleafs.
 
R Q said:
First pic looks like Poa Trivialis
Second looks like a stray piece of fescue or maybe Barnyard Grass
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Thanks. a couple of weeks ago I ordered a guide from a turf company on grassy and broadleaf pests that is supposed to help identify them.
These are in the edge of a bed and are about to get a spritz of Glystar.
 
ponykilr said:
View attachment 209806

View attachment 209807



The first pic I am not 100% but think it's smooth CG
The second pic is hairy CG isn't it?

Either way, this warm spell we are about to have will be a great time to roundup edges of beds and 24D any broadleafs.
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R Q said:
First pic looks like Poa Trivialis
Second looks like a stray piece of fescue or maybe Barnyard Grass
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Good calls on both, I think the first picture is poa annua, look at the boat shaped tips

The second picture is definitely a pasture type grass, I would say orchard grass with the open center
 
ponykilr said:
Ok, we had a very good fall for putting in Fescue and Bluegrass from seed. It was warm and wet and my grass did wonderful.

I called Southern Seed and asked what they recommended for a pre-emergent to control crabgrass and broadleafs BEFORE they come up.

The recommended a fertilizer/premerg in one with Barricade made by ProScape as the product that will stop the weeds from germinating.

It was as easy as walking behind the spreader. This stuff needs to be watered in, so try to plan around rain but if not just drag out the sprinkler and get it done.

PUT OUT PREMERG NOW unless you want to fight weeds on their own turf. Lowes and Walmart is not where you get professional products and seed. Find a local pro store and you will be surprised at the great service and results. They are happy to help with advice and products that will make frustration go down to nil.
Click to expand...

Good call here, Southern Seeds in Middle Sex for all you guys out that way, good products and great guys

If you go there tell them Josh from Corbin Turf said hello
 
guffey24 said:
Good call here, Southern Seeds in Middle Sex for all you guys out that way, good products and great guys

If you go there tell them Josh, the flaming homo from Corbin Turf said hello
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FIFY! Jackass.....
 
Can you guys confirm I am on the right track or help guide me in the right direction.

I want to spray something on my front lawn to kill then wild onions, dandelions, and clover. As far as I know my lawn is centipede, while the one neighbor has Bermuda and the other neighbor has mostly weeds with some centipede.

This is what I purchased.

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These are the instructions.

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This is what I'm trying to get rid of.

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Closeup of the grass.

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Don't want to screw this up and kill everything, and be forced to have all dirt until replanting fescue in the fall.

I would like to overseed in may to hopefully help thicken the lawn.
 
To me, I read it as .75 ounces of product in my 4 gallon backpack sprayer would be accurate, but on the weak side.

Can I premix .18-.2 Oz of product per 1 gallon water, and use as needed?
Ie: to avoid mixing up 4 gallons, and having a bunch of left over in the sprayer.

If my grass is centipede, and I assume it's dormant with the recent cold weather, is now a good time to spray? ie: instructions only mention centipede in Texas Mississippi and Louisiana?
 
You should read that label really good because I believe that Three Way is NOT compatible with Centipede. Im not sure since its dormant but please double check or better yet call Site One (formerly John Deere/Lesco) and verify. Im at work and dont have a label in front of me. They have another product broadleaf for centipede lawns.
 
I just called my local Site One and asked and they said it is not for use in Centipede even in dormacy. It is listed for it in some states but they have muchcwarmer climates than NC. I never stray from the labels as they are there for a reason and lots of testing has been done for them to even print those guidelines.
 
I'm a complete idiot with lawn and garden stuff. Are daffodils easy to replant? For some reason I have a ton way back in the woods where they serve no real purpose. I want to move these up front somewhere, but don't know when, or how to do it without killing them.

What are the pros/cons to dyed mulch (red or black)? I've been toying with the idea of using this stuff around the house. I have a bunch of pine trees here so I have natural pine needles down, but I have never really cared for that look.
 
Ok, one more, lol. Im on my phone so cant tell for sure by pics but your grass does look like centipede.
So IF you choose to use this product, heres your rates.
On your mixing, a 4 gal backpack sprayer can cover as much as 4000 sq ft of turf and the rate for Three Way is 1.5 oz per 1000 so your rate is 1.5 oz per gallon. Also mix in a surfactant or spreader with the chemical. Liquid dish soap such a Dawn will also do the trick.
 
Macdaddy4738 said:
I'm a complete idiot with lawn and garden stuff. Are daffodils easy to replant? For some reason I have a ton way back in the woods where they serve no real purpose. I want to move these up front somewhere, but don't know when, or how to do it without killing them.

What are the pros/cons to dyed mulch (red or black)? I've been toying with the idea of using this stuff around the house. I have a bunch of pine trees here so I have natural pine needles down, but I have never really cared for that look.
Click to expand...
Daffodills SHOULD be dug and planted late Fall thru Winter but they are very hardy so if you have time now, dig them up and move them as needed.
On the mulch, if you dint mind your house looking like a Wendys or a gas station use the colored mulch! Lol. It is chipped up and colored pallets. I personally hate it. It never stops migrating out of its intended area and contaminating adjacent turf and paved areas. Rain washes it around as does wind.
I prefer shredded mulchwhich will intertwine and stay put. Hardwood, pine, and Cypress SHREDDED mulch are best IMO
 
Allegedly, shredded cypress mulch is supposed to last 3 yrs.

After 6mos, double shred and triple shred hardwood mulch need to be top dressed to keep the weeds down (and keep the beds from looking like shit).

Dunno if the thing about cypress mulch is true, but for the small bump in price/yd, I'm going to find out.
 
shawn said:
Allegedly, shredded cypress mulch is supposed to last 3 yrs.

After 6mos, double shred and triple shred hardwood mulch need to be top dressed to keep the weeds down (and keep the beds from looking like shit).

Dunno if the thing about cypress mulch is true, but for the small bump in price/yd, I'm going to find out.
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Shawn it will last in the fact that it does not biodegrade as quick as the others and will partially and physically still be there but it will discolor almost as quick as any other mulch. There are colorants you can spray to freshen up the look a bit. Buy a bag for test purposes just to see.
 
R Q said:
I just called my local Site One and asked and they said it is not for use in Centipede even in dormacy. It is listed for it in some states but they have muchcwarmer climates than NC. I never stray from the labels as they are there for a reason and lots of testing has been done for them to even print those guidelines.
Click to expand...

R Q said:
Ok, one more, lol. Im on my phone so cant tell for sure by pics but your grass does look like centipede.
So IF you choose to use this product, heres your rates.
On your mixing, a 4 gal backpack sprayer can cover as much as 4000 sq ft of turf and the rate for Three Way is 1.5 oz per 1000 so your rate is 1.5 oz per gallon. Also mix in a surfactant or spreader with the chemical. Liquid dish soap such a Dawn will also do the trick.
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Whew ok glad I asked.

After reading the entire label, had me concern that this is a good 2-4d product to use on my fescue but I need something else for my centipede.

Thanks for the help and will return to site one / lesco and be sure to get a broadleaf herbicide to use with my centipede.

Thanks again. Again why I love this forum.
 
R Q said:
Daffodills SHOULD be dug and planted late Fall thru Winter but they are very hardy so if you have time now, dig them up and move them as needed.
On the mulch, if you dint mind your house looking like a Wendys or a gas station use the colored mulch! Lol. It is chipped up and colored pallets. I personally hate it. It never stops migrating out of its intended area and contaminating adjacent turf and paved areas. Rain washes it around as does wind.
I prefer shredded mulchwhich will intertwine and stay put. Hardwood, pine, and Cypress SHREDDED mulch are best IMO
Click to expand...

Good call. Got to thinking about it and nixed the colored mulch. I've messed with the red stuff once, it sucked.

Should I do anything with the soil before I move the flowers? Like I said, I have pines everywhere. From what I understand, they have a tendency to make soil a little acidic?
 
Macdaddy4738 said:
Good call. Got to thinking about it and nixed the colored mulch. I've messed with the red stuff once, it sucked.

Should I do anything with the soil before I move the flowers? Like I said, I have pines everywhere. From what I understand, they have a tendency to make soil a little acidic?
Click to expand...
Get some Bulb Booster, super phosphate, or bone meal to put in holes before planting. Bulbs need lots of Phosphorus
 
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