Lean-to construction

ghost

ghost

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 25, 2006
Location
Hartsville/Camden,SC
Looking to add an 8’ lean-to on the back side of the shop. I salvaged some 8’ long tin from the MIL’s shed we had to remove a few years ago. I’m also going to build a free standing on to store the mower and tiller. Do the headers need to be 2x8 with 2x6 rafters?

IMG_7761.jpeg


Plan is to attach a board at the top and come out 7’ - 8’ and sink 2 post. Header across them with rafters and then 1x4 or 1x6 to attach the ten to.
 
Following along. I'm building a 23' lean to off of my barn. Will be 3-1/2" decking for the roof, and 4x6s for the posts. All repurposed.
 
Depending on the support the header at the building does not need to be larger than the rafters. The header size at the opposing side will depend on your expected roof loading and your support post spacing. How far apart will the parts be and what will your roof be comprised of?
 
following along since I also need to build a lean to for tractor storage.
 
ramjo said:
By the code tables it's probably right at the limit for double 2x8s but it should be fine.



View attachment 431463
Click to expand...
I was put a single 2x8 into the current wood above the block.

OnlyOneDR said:
Depending on the support the header at the building does not need to be larger than the rafters. The header size at the opposing side will depend on your expected roof loading and your support post spacing. How far apart will the parts be and what will your roof be comprised of?
Click to expand...
Ok so I could use 2x6 on the building side would it need to be doubled? The open ended side will be 16' So I'll likely do 3 8' post. Should the rafters be 16" on center like studs or can I go out to 24" with it being tin and purloins? Thanks for the help here guys!
 
don't do what i did then.....hope it doens't blow away or collapse (will it?)

-30 ft long, 10 ft wide, supported on both sides by treated 4x4 ( 8 total 4x4)

-10 ft span 2x6 headers for the 30 ft run (3 total each side)

10 ft span 2x4 for the 10 ft span, 20 in on center (19 2x4s)

1x4 strips to attach generic 10 ft long tin roofing to (screwed)
 
I built something similar attached to my shop.

6x6s for the posts(6ea), span of 16'. Headers were lvl beams left over from my kitchen remodel. 2x8 joists and then tied the metal tin roof into the existing roof on the shop. Put it up by myself in a few weekends. lowest point is about 10'
 
You probably won't be able to get full 16' length roof if that's the current width of the block building. You will be getting up into the overhang. I would also plan on setting the post less than 8' from the wall so that you will have at least some overhang. A 1:12 pitch will be about an 7.5" difference in height from bottom of 2x6 ledger to top of your 8" beam. Thats pretty flat,....a 2:12 will be about 15" drop, which will cut into your headroom pretty good on the beam side. 2x6 rafter at 24" o.c. will be fine. I would do 6x6 post notched just because I hate a 4x4 and it gives something good for beam to sit on.

and here's some stamped engineered plans in case anybody asks


ghosthouse.jpeg
 
ramjo said:
You probably won't be able to get full 16' length roof if that's the current width of the block building. You will be getting up into the overhang. I would also plan on setting the post less than 8' from the wall so that you will have at least some overhang. A 1:12 pitch will be about an 7.5" difference in height from bottom of 2x6 ledger to top of your 8" beam. Thats pretty flat,....a 2:12 will be about 15" drop, which will cut into your headroom pretty good on the beam side. 2x6 rafter at 24" o.c. will be fine. I would do 6x6 post notched just because I hate a 4x4 and it gives something good for beam to sit on.

and here's some stamped engineered plans in case anybody asks


View attachment 431579
Click to expand...
1736211681112.jpeg
 
ramjo said:
You probably won't be able to get full 16' length roof if that's the current width of the block building. You will be getting up into the overhang. I would also plan on setting the post less than 8' from the wall so that you will have at least some overhang. A 1:12 pitch will be about an 7.5" difference in height from bottom of 2x6 ledger to top of your 8" beam. Thats pretty flat,....a 2:12 will be about 15" drop, which will cut into your headroom pretty good on the beam side. 2x6 rafter at 24" o.c. will be fine. I would do 6x6 post notched just because I hate a 4x4 and it gives something good for beam to sit on.

and here's some stamped engineered plans in case anybody asks


View attachment 431579
Click to expand...
This is awesome. This is exactly what I needed. Cannot thank you enough. Yes the main block building is 16' and that is what I was basing it off of. I need to measure where the top of the 2x6 would sit. I'm thinking the wall of block is 7" 6" approximately. So the far beam at 6' would mean I'd only have 10" of drop. I need to replace that roof but that is another project for another day.
 
IMG_7779.jpeg
IMG_7780.jpeg
So climbed up and too a corner of this shingle paper off to see what was there distance wise. It’s 5.5” to the roof boards. It looks like a 2x6 on its side laying flat on top of the block. So question is do I remove the roofing material and go board to board and the replace it later or just attach the header on top of the roof material. Seems like I should at least remove the bottom. Am I wrong?
 
ghost said:
View attachment 431910View attachment 431911So climbed up and too a corner of this shingle paper off to see what was there distance wise. It’s 5.5” to the roof boards. It looks like a 2x6 on its side laying flat on top of the block. So question is do I remove the roofing material and go board to board and the replace it later or just attach the header on top of the roof material. Seems like I should at least remove the bottom. Am I wrong?
Click to expand...

You can pull it loose and tack it up out of the way or cut 5" - 6" off. Put up your 2x6 ledger and frame from there. After your metal is on, flash it with a some metal wall flashing and fold that shingle paper back down over the wall flashing.
 
ghost said:
In sticker shock. Went and put all the post and boards in a cart for Lowe’s. $600+ for a 16 x 8 lean too.
Click to expand...
Circling back. That total just didn't seem right. I went back to my cart and looked. I guess I put a 2 in front of the 1 for 2x6x 16 instead of just 1. Total is $288.58! Man that is much more reasonable.
 
FYI I spent more on the tin then wood. However I did find a company on the other side of Gastonia that were selling sheets of tin for half the cost of Lowes.
 
YJJPWrangler said:
FYI I spent more on the tin then wood. However I did find a company on the other side of Gastonia that were selling sheets of tin for half the cost of Lowes.
Click to expand...
I salvaged some 8' tin from a shed tear down that I will be using on this one.
 
YJJPWrangler said:
@jeepinmatt. Couldn't find the listing but found the address.

1602 W Airline ave gastonia 28052. Phone is 9802451872. It's a hispanic business/house/flea market. They might have more in stock
Click to expand...
1736887837658.png


More importantly, they are a couple hundred yards from THE best food truck burritos I've ever had! $5.99 for a burrito and a drink on saturdays. I'm not saying the Mamacita remembers my order, I'm just saying every time I show up, she hollers my name ;)
 
So this lean-to is on hold but I need somewhere to store the new mower. Was thinking 10’ wide 6’ deep but that isn’t gonna work. Damn thing is long. Picked up some post and wood to get started. So now I’m thinking 10’ x 10’. Maybe two stalls. So 20’ x 10’ of it will fit.
IMG_8257.jpeg
IMG_8258.jpeg
 
So I hope I’m doing this right. Staked out the six post points and checked square by measuring the diagonal from the far post. Hooked up the post auger between rain storms and started 4 holes. One hole went in 24” the depth of the post. The others didn’t. Hard packed clay sucks with no down force.

IMG_8259.jpeg
 
Back
Top