Lifted Jeep Blues

ponykilr

ponykilr

Old Crow
Joined
Apr 26, 2021
Location
Lowgap
Perhaps it is because I’m getting older, I don’t know. I’ve had many lifted trucks and Jeeps and have enjoyed them, put up with the quirks…I am just not enjoying the lifted daily driver anymore.

I’m not a hard wheeler, I used to be an active moderate wheeler but now I just don’t care about it. My TJ has been a lot of fun, but all on back roads with the wife. If I’m honest the Jeep is only a small part, being with her and exploring 2 lane is most of it.

The Jeep is a handful on bumpy curvy mountain back roads that haven’t been repaved in decades. Part of it is 4” on short arms and E tires, I know. I honestly don’t have a desire to spend what it would take to make it better because we just don’t wheel. I have it for sale, have had a good amount of inquiry but finding people who want it…with thousands in cash is a waiting game.

The other option I am considering is returning it back to a near stock configuration. Stock springs with maybe a small spacer lift. 31s, take the wheel spacers out, short arms won’t be beating me to death with the better angles.

I dunno, weird being in this place 😆wanting a more stock vehicle. I’m not considering buying a daily and just keeping the Jeep, if I can’t comfortably drive it daily I don’t need it. Am I losing my mind?
 
You may be losing your mind..

But not over this. I'm a big believer in having and building things for a purpose. If the Jeep isn't built for what you want to do, changing it is an option.

Personally, I'd let the sale run and buy something different. But you could swap the 4" lift for something smaller. If you sell it, I will say the road manners of a JK are better than a TJ in my opinion. You could also look at a Tacoma that might be a bit more practical for fire trails and camping weekends.
 
Southern_Transplant said:
You could also look at a Tacoma that might be a bit more practical for fire trails and camping weekends.
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The Toyotas I have owned, especially the 3rd gen 4Runners, were great daily drivers.
 
I'm sure I've posted it before, but my TJ was the most fun and simplest on a 2" spacer lift with 32" MTs and a locker in the rear. Once you start going beyond that it gets complicated. The angles are still decent with short arms and stock driveshaft. You could easily put yours back to that point if you still have shortarms.
 
I’m about where you are. I rarely wheel anymore and just don’t have much desire. I’d get more use and enjoyment out of one that would be more comfortable on the street. I keep thinking about selling the TJ and the Tramper and getting a newer stock rubicon.
 
jeepinmatt said:
I'm sure I've posted it before, but my TJ was the most fun and simplest on a 2" spacer lift with 32" MTs and a locker in the rear. Once you start going beyond that it gets complicated. The angles are still decent with short arms and stock driveshaft. You could easily put yours back to that point if you still have shortarms.
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I have seen you post that before. It does get complicated without a lot of room for a progression. This one is a Rubicon so it has a good rear shaft, the lockers and winch being far more important than a little more lift in the mild off roading I see (like getting kayaks to the river or the frequent snow we get).

I bought it with 3” springs (marked on the coil) and 1” spacers. It has white hydro shocks, I don’t remember the brand as I peeled off the already peeling stickers. It has a rear track bar bracket and worn out adjustable front (I just ordered a RE 1600 to replace it because Amazon had it for $106).

I have seen @shawn recommend the RC 2.5 springs a few times. They are progressive I believe. Would they actually ride better than factory springs on 1.75 pucks? I remember stock, my new 05 Rubicon rode really good and my BIL had one as well with a BB and stock shocks and it rode no different. The RC coils can be had for around $300, factory coils should be cheap/free plus the pucks. My shocks should work and give me a lot of down travel.

With some 31” ATs (not E rated) and decent arm angles it may be a much more tolerable daily. The gearing would be better in these hills for sure.
 
I think adjustable lower control arms, like Jody mentioned, would go along way in getting it enjoyably drivable. Get that caster back in line would make a huge difference.
 
ponykilr said:
I have seen you post that before. It does get complicated without a lot of room for a progression. This one is a Rubicon so it has a good rear shaft, the lockers and winch being far more important than a little more lift in the mild off roading I see (like getting kayaks to the river or the frequent snow we get).

I bought it with 3” springs (marked on the coil) and 1” spacers. It has white hydro shocks, I don’t remember the brand as I peeled off the already peeling stickers. It has a rear track bar bracket and worn out adjustable front (I just ordered a RE 1600 to replace it because Amazon had it for $106).

I have seen @shawn recommend the RC 2.5 springs a few times. They are progressive I believe. Would they actually ride better than factory springs on 1.75 pucks? I remember stock, my new 05 Rubicon rode really good and my BIL had one as well with a BB and stock shocks and it rode no different. The RC coils can be had for around $300, factory coils should be cheap/free plus the pucks. My shocks should work and give me a lot of down travel.

With some 31” ATs (not E rated) and decent arm angles it may be a much more tolerable daily. The gearing would be better in these hills for sure.
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I'd go 2" spacers, stock springs, and JK shocks (they are longer than stock TJ) and get it aligned, then give it a few drives.
 
Do you have (or have access to) stock springs? @trailhugger's Jeep is RC 2.5" springs and their shocks with 33" bfgs, and is a great driver. It rides better than it did when we got it with factory springs, spacers, and white shocks, but there are a lot of variables there. Edit: I'd add that once you get taller than about 4" of total lift and 33s, it gets to be a pain in the ass to get in and out.

Lowers don't really affect caster, just location of the axle front/back. If it isn't tracking, you need to fix your track bar problem first, then check the caster. If it needs more, you need adjustable uppers - they rotate the axle
 
jeepinmatt said:
go 2" spacers, stock springs
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I am thinking that with 31s this is the way.
shawn said:
once you get taller than about 4" of total lift and 33s, it gets to be a pain in the ass to get in and out.
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Yes it is, especially with a bad knee and herniated discs.
shawn said:
These will make it twitchy, too.
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Yeah I think moving them out that far makes it dart because of the steering arc created. The inboard tire moves rearward and outboard moves forward during steering.



I will give it a few days to see if anyone wants it and if not, I think I will look for some parts and buy some new 265/75-16 BFGs.…Get serious about fixing the cruise control too.
 
Jody Treadway said:
2.5" quality coils, 1" BL, 1" MM lift for drive line angles, 33s all day long with good control arm angles. Adjustable lowers to dial in caster is a bonus. It works, has room for larger tires and still looks good.
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I will second this plan on a TJ. Years ago I used to mountain bike with a guy who had this setup and it was by far the best riding and driving TJ that I’ve been in. Pretty sure his was the 2.5 Teraflex kit back then.
 
StretchASU said:
I will second this plan on a TJ. Years ago I used to mountain bike with a guy who had this setup and it was by far the best riding and driving TJ that I’ve been in. Pretty sure his was the 2.5 Teraflex kit back then.
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My mom’s 06 Rubi is 1.5” over the factory rubicon 1” on tube fenders/ bumpers/ front winch. I wouldn’t be afraid to drive it to Moab, wheel all of it, then drive it back to NC.
 
Keep in mind that swapping the springs isn't a small job. You'll likely have to remove the track bar, drag link, shocks, and at least one upper to get them out.
 
shawn said:
Lowers don't really affect caster, just location of the axle front/back. If it isn't tracking, you need to fix your track bar problem first, then check the caster. If it needs more, you need adjustable uppers - they rotate the axle
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On a budget, you could accomplish axle placement as well as caster with adjustable lowers. You're correct that uppers are typically used to adjust it. But you could also push the LCA out while maintaining stock length uppers and do it.
I pray to God we don't fuss about this and you use big words in an attempt to shame me.
 
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