Lifted Jeep Blues

Jody Treadway said:
On a budget, you could accomplish axle placement as well as caster with adjustable lowers. You're correct that uppers are typically used to adjust it. But you could also push the LCA out while maintaining stock length uppers and do it.
I pray to God we don't fuss about this and you use big words in an attempt to shame me.
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The lowers are only a couple of inches below the axle centerline. The uppers are about 6" higher. Change the uppers a little bit and change the caster angle a lot. Change the lowers by an inch, change the caster angle by a little bit. Could always run the cam bolts out as far as they'll go, too. Depending on where they're set that could move it ~1/2", and is basically free.
 
Wouldn’t the uppers have to move farther to move the axle, being farther away from it?
 
shawn said:
Lowers don't really affect caster, just location of the axle front/back. If it isn't tracking, you need to fix your track bar problem first, then check the caster. If it needs more, you need adjustable uppers - they rotate the axle
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Only because the world need some smart ass humor this morning... (you know I love ya)
Is that why nearly all lift manufacturers include longer front lowers with thier 2.5"-4" XJ,ZJ,MJ and TJ lift kits?
 
Jody Treadway said:
Only because the world need some smart ass humor this morning... (you know I love ya)
Is that why nearly all lift manufacturers include longer front lowers with thier 2.5"-4" XJ,ZJ,MJ and TJ lift kits?
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Yeah, you're right. I was thinking about it from the standpoint of having four adjustable links. If you have to choose one, lowers are probably the better bet. It sounds like he's dead set on reducing the lift height (and doesn't wheel anyway), so replacing the lowers may end up being redundant. I'm still thinking that fixing the bad track bar and removing the wheel spacers will greatly improve the situation, but shorter springs aren't a bad way to go.
 
shawn said:
Yeah, you're right. I was thinking about it from the standpoint of having four adjustable links. If you have to choose one, lowers are probably the better bet. It sounds like he's dead set on reducing the lift height (and doesn't wheel anyway), so replacing the lowers may end up being redundant. I'm still thinking that fixing the bad track bar and removing the wheel spacers will greatly improve the situation, but shorter springs aren't a bad way to go.
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I agree about the track bar. A loose end will make anything drive like shit. Unplanned direction changes on twisty roads will bring the suck.
 
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Well, I was looking around ebay and I ended up getting a set of the 2.5” Rough Country progressive springs and their 10 stage shocks for a great price. Looks like I’ll keep it a while longer.
 
ponykilr said:
Well, I was looking around ebay and I ended up getting a set of the 2.5” Rough Country progressive springs and their 10 stage shocks for a great price. Looks like I’ll keep it a while longer.
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Rough Country and "10 Stage shocks" gives me pause...
 
jeepinmatt said:
They may very well be. Rough Country just isn't known for top notch or high tech products 🤷‍♂️
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I honestly think as long as they get it back to acceptable control arm angles it will be great. The shocks have to be better than these white ones.

The thing doesn’t ride bad over normal road and dips and such, it’s harder edged stuff, even at very slow speeds, that feels like a shot to the kidneys. When you look at the control arms, it is very apparent that the angle just drives the tires into stuff before it decides to let the suspension move.

Thinking P265 Nitto Trail Graps.
 
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jeepinmatt said:
They may very well be. Rough Country just isn't known for top notch or high tech products 🤷‍♂️
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They are way mucho better then they used to be.
 
ponykilr said:
Well @shawn says they are GTG 🤷🏼‍♂️
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Looks like those are the "N3"... ours are all "N2", whatever that means. They'll likely be a little on the softer side, as compared to a 5100 or something like that.
 
shawn said:
Looks like those are the "N3"... ours are all "N2", whatever that means. They'll likely be a little on the softer side, as compared to a 5100 or something like that.
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I would assume they have a velocity valve in em.
 
@Jody Treadway suggested and a few supported the idea of the 2.5” setup with a 1.25BL along with keeping the 33s.

After more thought I am considering the BL and keeping the @Southern_Transplant sloppy seconds Wildpeaks.

My thought is that while a P265 may be softer than a LT285 the larger diameter will roll over things like expansion joints and hard edges easier.

I assume the cable Tcase shifter should be done as well plus will do the MML.
 
33s will fit with 2.5" of suspension lift and nothing else. How much air is in the tires?
 
ponykilr said:
@Jody Treadway suggested and a few supported the idea of the 2.5” setup with a 1.25BL along with keeping the 33s.

After more thought I am considering the BL and keeping the @Southern_Transplant sloppy seconds Wildpeaks.

My thought is that while a P265 may be softer than a LT285 the larger diameter will roll over things like expansion joints and hard edges easier.

I assume the cable Tcase shifter should be done as well plus will do the MML.
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Funny how it went from "I'm putting it back to stock !" to "let's make some more mods !"

It's a disease \o/
 
ponykilr said:
@Jody Treadway suggested and a few supported the idea of the 2.5” setup with a 1.25BL along with keeping the 33s.

After more thought I am considering the BL and keeping the @Southern_Transplant sloppy seconds Wildpeaks.

My thought is that while a P265 may be softer than a LT285 the larger diameter will roll over things like expansion joints and hard edges easier.

I assume the cable Tcase shifter should be done as well plus will do the MML.
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jeepinmatt said:
I'm sure I've posted it before, but my TJ was the most fun and simplest on a 2" spacer lift with 32" MTs and a locker in the rear. Once you start going beyond that it gets complicated. The angles are still decent with short arms and stock driveshaft. You could easily put yours back to that point if you still have shortarms.
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After the 2" spacer lift, I wanted more belly clearance because it turtled on everything. I added a 2" bodylift, 1" motor mount lift, and flat skid, which then required a slip yoke eliminator for driveshaft angle, and 33's to fill the fender. Once I did that, I extended the rear bumper up 2" to cover the gap. Then got tired of breaking the D35, so I swapped in a 60 rear. Then made 5x4.5 to 8x6.5 adapters for the front. Once I did that, I put 3" springs, 4.56 gears, 35's, then 4.5" springs, 36s, then D60 front, hydro assist, 38's, NV4500, flipped D300, 4:1 in the D300, etc. You get the idea. Slippery slope. Simplest thing is stock everything, 2" spacers, longer shocks and 31's or 32's. Once you start going beyond that it gets complicated.
 
jeepinmatt said:
After the 2" spacer lift, I wanted more belly clearance because it turtled on everything. I added a 2" bodylift, 1" motor mount lift, and flat skid, which then required a slip yoke eliminator for driveshaft angle, and 33's to fill the fender. Once I did that, I extended the rear bumper up 2" to cover the gap. Then got tired of breaking the D35, so I swapped in a 60 rear. Then made 5x4.5 to 8x6.5 adapters for the front. Once I did that, I put 3" springs, 4.56 gears, 35's, then 4.5" springs, 36s, then D60 front, hydro assist, 38's, NV4500, flipped D300, 4:1 in the D300, etc. You get the idea. Slippery slope. Simplest thing is stock everything, 2" spacers, longer shocks and 31's or 32's. Once you start going beyond that it gets complicated.
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What I read in all that bullshit is I got a nice 8274 that came from all that indecision 😜
 
OK, a bit of an update.

The springs and shocks are not here yet but the track bar and stabilizer are.

I installed them, taking care to measure for centering the axle. Turns out it was centered just sitting there with no cussing needed.

The old track bar is heavier than the RE1600 I replaced it with, I plan to find a new rod end for it (hopefully greasable) and keep it for a rainy day. Anyone have any ideas? It is reverse thread. The bar is gold (cadmium?), any guesses as to the brand?

The old stabilizer wasn’t worn as far as easy to push and pull but chattered as it moved. It was looser than the new N3 stabilizer but I was expecting it to be trashed. The chattering is weird, like it jerks the whole way in and out.

—-—--——-

After install, I lowered the tires to 20psi, they look a little more bulged but not a ton different. The entire tread definitely contacts the ground. I took it for a drive and the difference is remarkable.

The wobble is gone, the darting is too. The slight bump steer I had? Gone too.

The ride is MUCH improved, thanks to @shawn and @CasterTroy for the tire pressure recommendation.

Sharp bumps like the bridge over the creek are 75% better.

—————-

I still plan to swap the springs and shocks. That will hopefully get it the rest of the way and kill the slight driveshaft vibe I have when the hard top is off. Depending on how it looks at that height will determine whether I do the BL.

Thanks to all who chimed in, it will be a much better driver now I am sure.
 
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