Looking for a licensed electrician in Raleigh

spykosshow

spykosshow

New Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2005
Location
Raleigh, NC
I need a 230v 30amp outlet put in just below the breaker box. I'm in a rental but the landlord said as long as a licensed electrician did it then it was fine. I'm going to run the wire and put in the junction box, I'm just looking for someone to help out by putting the breaker in and checking everything.

Anyone wanting to make some cash?
 
Call (919)827-0492 and ask for Jeff Nelligon or press 1 for our service department. Tell him Cory gave you his contact info. Not sure how much it would be but can't hurt to ask him.
 
its really easy to do.

is the landlord going to check a license of the installer??? You can do the work at the supervision of a licensed electrician and still be OK
 
rockcity said:
its really easy to do.
is the landlord going to check a license of the installer??? You can do the work at the supervision of a licensed electrician and still be OK
Click to expand...


I just ordered the welder from TSC and it won't be here till next week. I've got a buddy at work that's done electrical work for his father's company for 15 years that's gonna help me out. It shouldn't take me more than an hour to install everything.

I'm gonna run a 6-50R outlet with 10-2 wire about 2 feet under the breaker box with a double pole 30amp breaker.
 
spykosshow said:
Why the jackass of a remark? Why not just correct me? This is what I was told I could run.
It takes just under 20 amps under load. It requires that outlet however.
Click to expand...


to be honest, any licensed electrician who tells you what to run without seeing data plates, panels and taking a few measures....doesnt deserve the license.

A double pole breaker has 2 hot legs to make 220V...you need a ground/neutral... 2 conductor cable is out of wires after the hot legs, God bless if you ever have a short.


Generally speaking without regard to your installation, Regardless of how much your intended load takes, once you install a 30A breaker you are required to have 30A of cable based on the length of the run....otherwise the wire burns up before the breaker trips...If you were local id take care of it for you for free...since you are not...

circuit needs to be sized 120% of intended load
Breaker is most likely only rated for 80% of face
Wire must be 125% of breaker size.

want more specifics PM me.
 
Unbreakable and I could do it but the drive would cost the heck out of ya.
 
If I want a 30A outlet/beaker, I build it for 50A and put a smaller breaker on there. At least thats my rule of thumb and is a good starting point. Normally, I run short runs for my welder, etc. so I have minimal resistance correction factors to deal with. I'm no expert, but I haven't burned my house down, yet...

Its really not difficult but one must take the proper steps to ensure you don't burn your place down. Ron sounds like he has some good points to help you out.
 
SkyHiK5 said:
A double pole breaker has 2 hot legs to make 220V...you need a ground/neutral... 2 conductor cable is out of wires after the hot legs, God bless if you ever have a short.
Click to expand...

Um, 10-2 has a ground with it. They do not count the ground on resi wire. Same for -3 resi wire, it has three insulated conductors and a ground in the jacket.
 
OnlyOneDR said:
Um, 10-2 has a ground with it. They do not count the ground on resi wire. Same for -3 resi wire, it has three insulated conductors and a ground in the jacket.
Click to expand...


oops, yer right my bad.
Been a while since I messed with romex
 
MC, NM, AC, etc the ground is never counted BUT your neutral is counted in the conductors. This is just an fyi and I hold no liability for any stupidity that could come from taken this as the "bible"

If you are wiring 2 sep circuits say HP 1,3 you would need a 12/3. This covers your:
2 hots
1 neutral
Ground

This is if you are using a 2 pole breaker. Due to a change in the NEC if you are using single pole breakers from now on you will be required to pull a separate neutral for disconnecting purposes regardless of grouping. So if you run HP 1,3 on single pole breakers you will need to run *conductor size/4*. This covers you on
2 hots
2 neutrals
1 ground

Obviously that is not going to be the case with using a 2p breaker but thats a lil bit of info alot of people don't know these days and an inspector most certainly call you out on it.

They do now make a specific multi neutral multi conductor cable through numerous companies.

I would advise you call an electrician and not do it yourself. Having no background you are very likely to shock yourself and even a 120/208 can kill the right person pending the circumstances. Please Please Please don't go F'n around in a hot panel regardless of voltage if you don't know what you are doing!
 
SkyHiK5 said:
NC/SC Unlimited license (#available upon request hehehehe...always love that line) since 97
Click to expand...

I don't feel like bonding that much, will be getting my Intermediate later in the year so I can do HV work.
 
The Hobart 187 I bought arrived on Monday, so my electrician buddy is helping me tomorrow.

I got the stuff today. 30amp breaker, 5 feet of 10-2, old work junction box, the 50 amp style outlet, and a face plate. Can y'all think of something I'm missing? He's done electrical work for 15 years so I'd say he's more than familiar with a breaker panel.
 
you need a connector for the box and the panel

And I still would run a separate ground and neutral...one to the device and one to the box...
 
Back
Top