LQ4 install

rockcity

rockcity

everyday is a chance to get better
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Location
Greenville, NC
Well, I finally wised up and pulled the plug on using the 351/T18/D300 in my buggy.

I'm hoping this thread will turn into a build/tech thread as I'm learning as I go with this LQ4. If you have suggestions or know some good "tip", feel free to offer it up :)

I broke down and picked up a LQ4 from a 2004 Chevy Express Van with about 35K miles. I like this engine as the harness is longer than the LQ4 or LQ9 that is in the trucks and SUVs and is the newer and retains the cable throttle body versus the "drive by wire". The oil dip stick is a little long, but I'll either trim it up to the right size or get one from a truck. Lokar may be a good option

I chose the LQ4 because of price and availability. The LQ9 needs mid-grade gas at minimum to get the performance needed. I didn't find a L33 or any of the other aluminum block engines that were reasonably priced.

We'll start out slow with the process as I've been really slow at building this buggy, might as well stay consistent with the engine :lol:

Here goes:

LQ4 as it came from the salvage yard
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Harness and ECM removed and is at Jim's Performance for his magic touch
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Fits in the buggy, somewhat :D
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Currently I'll be using an e2000 fuel pump but may switch to a walbro 255. Opinions?

I'm also using the 99-00 corvette fuel filter/regulator

Next up is the plumbing of the fuel system and fabrication of the fuel cell. Also, I sould be getting a nice new PIMP torque converter from PTC which utilizes the factory truck style flexplate with the TH350 transmission. The TC is made to eliminate the need for a different flexplate or the spacer. Best part is its cheaper for the pimp TC than it is for a stock TC with all the spacers, bolts, and flexplate.

The trans is a TH350, which will be rebuilt. Don't know if I'm going with a RMVB yet or not. Any thoughts? How about shifters? I've heard good things about the Art Carr and the B&M.

More to come as parts start to show up.
 

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I'm looking around for another set of truck or van exhaust manifolds as I want to use the driver's side on the pass. side so I can have a front dump exhaust and route it under the front of the engine and bring both exhaust pipes down the driver's side so I have enough room for the driveshaft on the pass side drop Atlas

One thing I've been looking into is the PCV lines and that some install filters on both the clean and dirty lines. I've yet to really find the routing of the dirty line as I'm looking at pics of the Turn Key throttle body and its a little different than the stock throttle body.

It appears that the dirty line comes from the driver's side steam port which is connected to the pass side steam port? Can anyone clarify this?
 
Hate to see you go away from the ford stuff, but that is a good chevy to start with. Are you planning on driving the buggy on the street at all?

:edit: This is assuming you ever finish it. :flipoff2:
 
I found the LQ4 local with harness, ECM and alternator for $1100 including tax and delivery :) Where in VA? I'm heading to Richmond this weekend to pick up my tires

I wanted to go with the Ford stuff, but for the lack of power, simplicity of the LQ4, and cost, it just wan't worth it. Its still here in the garag and may get used in a project if I don't get rid of it anytime soon.

Only reason I'd drive it on the street is maybe between trailheads or to run to the store in Harlan, etc. It'll have a tag and insurance though (hopefully)
 
Wasn't this buggy suppose to be done 3 years ago and taken to Moab?:flipoff2:

Good motor choice. I have nothing constructive to add.
 
rockcity said:
Currently I'll be using an e2000 fuel pump but may switch to a walbro 255. Opinions?
I'm also using the 99-00 corvette fuel filter/regulator
Next up is the plumbing of the fuel system and fabrication of the fuel cell. Also, I sould be getting a nice new PIMP torque converter from PTC which utilizes the factory truck style flexplate with the TH350 transmission. The TC is made to eliminate the need for a different flexplate or the spacer. Best part is its cheaper for the pimp TC than it is for a stock TC with all the spacers, bolts, and flexplate.
The trans is a TH350, which will be rebuilt. Don't know if I'm going with a RMVB yet or not. Any thoughts? How about shifters? I've heard good things about the Art Carr and the B&M.
More to come as parts start to show up.
Click to expand...
The e2000 won't flow enough for a 6.0, you need the walbro. The e2000 will run it, but around 4500 rpm, it can't keep up. I used the stock van flexplate and a stock TH350 torque converter. I had to oblong the holes in the fleplate, but no big deal. You could use that and save yourself some money. I'm running a turbo action shifter and like it better than Art Carrs.
 
I've been hearing both stories with the e2000. I already have it so I'll try it. If it doesn't work I'll upgrade to the walbro 255 if necessary.



And yeah, it was supposed to be done years ago, but I keep changing my mind on things :)
 
:flipoff2: at least I have wheels and tires :D

this buggy stuff is expensive!

I have all my tube for the rest of the cage and the links, so I should be good to go now.

I think all I need is to rebuild the TH350 and get the Atlas and I should have most everything. Oh yeah, got to pick up a new radiator and get the fuel cell and fuel lines.
 
Call Brandon at Rides or John over at Extreme Machines. They can set you up with a really nice radiator for a very reasonable price. I install one in a rig with a LQ4 and was very pleased, plus it had a built in oil cooler!
 
In this first pic, looking just below the throttle body there is a small hard line that a hose connects to. Anyone know where this goes to?

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In the second pic, you can see the hard line coming from the pass. side head to the driver side. I think this is a steam line? In pic 3 you'll see a hose connected to the top of the driver side and connected to the throttle body. What is this? the PCV line?

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I'm expecting to just vent the PCV to the atmosphere versus back into the intake. I really don't want to have a chance of the oil getting to the intake
 
The small nipple on the throttle body runs into the radiator, but many people bypass that and run the line directly to the steam crossover. The pcv needs to be ran to the valve cover, it looks like somebody broke a piece of the nipple off on the valve cover. I wouldn't worry about oil consumption, my truck with the 5.3 has over 186k uses less than 1/4 of a quart of oil in 3000 and it probably leaks that.
 
snappy said:
Kinda of like yours and Robinsville!!!!
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My truck was ready! I just backed out due to big father's day plans on Sunday. Communication with the fiancee was lacking, and I didn't realize we were hosting a big shin-dig on father's day.
 
02gmc5.3 said:
The small nipple on the throttle body runs into the radiator, but many people bypass that and run the line directly to the steam crossover. The pcv needs to be ran to the valve cover, it looks like somebody broke a piece of the nipple off on the valve cover. I wouldn't worry about oil consumption, my truck with the 5.3 has over 186k uses less than 1/4 of a quart of oil in 3000 and it probably leaks that.
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I don't see how or where that line can be connected to the steam crossover line. am I missing something? Anyone have any pics of theirs?



Edit: After much more searching and reading, the nipple is for throttle body icing. Many plug it up, put it to the radiator, or tap it into the thermostat housing. I'm prob. going to plug it up.

What part do you mean is broken on the valve cover?
 
only part I saw broken was the EVAP sensor thingy which is coming off anyway.


More parts showed up today. :D

A little bling, but they were fairly priced.


Lokar throttle cable, TH350/400 kickdown cable and locking trans fill tube.

Also, Pro Werks weld-in aluminum bungs for my hydro steering reservior and fuel cell.
 

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47 LTB is a big ass tire!

I am having an issue installing the wheels with mag inserts. what width inserts is everyone running with stock 8 bolt wheels and 47 LTBs?
 

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