Metal carport for RV

Subzilla said:
Looking for a good supplier/installer for taller metal carport for travel trailer around Concord/Charlotte area. Any local recommendations? Lots of them on the web but they all seem non-local. Not not necessarily against that.
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I'm in the same market. About the best I've found is in Cherryville. Ekert or something like that. I'm trying to build 20x25x11. They priced me around $2700
 
GotWood said:
I'm in the same market. About the best I've found is in Cherryville. Ekert or something like that. I'm trying to build 20x25x11. They priced me around $2700
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Are you wanting enclosed?
I did a 20x25 x 11 ~2 years ago and it was like $1,200 (not counting concrete)

I think all of the cheap metal carport places are the same and use the same band of travling installers.
 
r and r , built it myself just pay the man but I have zero thoughts about snow load whereas a lot of metal carports bit the bullet a few years ago. pay the man! yes I know my post are crooked that is a 30' long shelter
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I bought my shop kit local at R&R. Justin and his wife are good people. Their products are good quality and priced right. Mine will be enclosed. Every few months they have a sale on certain size standing roof kits. Usually 10-15% cheaper. Check their website and Facebook periodically for the sale.
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Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
Wanted to see if I could revive an old thread, basically bouncing back and forth between the metal rv carport, 22' x 51' with 12' legs, upgraded to 12GA, and "certified" for wind/snow etc. 3' sides, quote are about $6500 installed at the various folks I have seen online.

I would 'prefer' something like the RR Ironworks building but not what their price is going to be for approx the same size? $5898 it looks like for 24x48 plus I will have to pay for the install?

You can see here where I have parked the beast, 40' diesel pusher. I am thinking I will put down another lane of the concrete washout / crushed concrete just to the passenger side of the rig, all the way from the house out to the end, essentially creating a "double wide" parking area.

Then one of my questions to the group as a whole...do I try to tuck this up "close" to the house (note the HVAC unit would be then covered or do I start instead there at the end of the porch, essentially leaving a 10' gap between the back of my house and the start of this carport / "pole barn"? Just an aside, one of the reasons that this is "the" parking space for me is the electrical panel was upgraded by Duke and then I was able to put a nice 50 amp / 30 amp / 20 amp "RV" outlets there so I have 'shore power' when parked!




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I just put up an R&R 16x40 ( 44’ with over hang) $3300 out the door. Actually pretty simple to put up.
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That was the complete package, all wood, roof metal, trim metal, screw, lag bolts. Everything except concrete for footers and gravel. That was November pricing. If I would have bought back in April when I should have, it would have been $2800.:cool:
 
Did you install it yourself? If so, how did you lift the 6x6 beams and then the metal trusses overhead. Did you already have a device or rent one or? Wondering what it would cost to pay someone to assemble it?

Did (do) you need permits to build? I am in Forsyth county, near Walkertown but not in "city" limits of Kville or Walkertown, so assuming county restrictions.

Current pricing below got the email last night:

Typical RV cover is 14' eave wall using 18'post please let us know if you would be ok with this and i will price this based on 14' eave walls
20x40 $4378
22x40 $4797
20x50 $5475
22x50 $6019

This. includes 6x6-18' CCA .60 post
engineered steel truss
2x6 purlins with a 18" Overhang beyond post on all sides
40 yr warranty metal panel
ridge cap
rake trim
drip edge
screws and hardware
 
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For the record again I'm very partial to r&r buildings they are simple to install yourself and by far the best deal, but I have another friend who sells metal square tube carports and I bought a ~22x30 for a rental house because I had no time or care to screw with putting one up myself. Put the deposit down end of August, they still call once a month with some bullshit excuse but still have not come to put the fuckin thing up.

If you go that route--and I wouldn't in this case--read up on recent reviews of the company you buy from.
 
SHINTON said:
Did you install it yourself? If so, how did you lift the 6x6 beams and then the metal, did you already have a device or rent one or? Wondering what it would cost to pay someone to assemble it?

Did (do) you need permits to build? I am in Forsyth county, near Walkertown but not in "city" limits of Kville or Walkertown, so assuming county restrictions.

Current pricing below got the email last night:

Typical RV cover is 14' eave wall using 18'post please let us know if you would be ok with this and i will price this based on 14' eave walls
20x40 $4378
22x40 $4797
20x50 $5475
22x50 $6019

This. includes 6x6-18' CCA .60 post
engineered steel truss
2x6 purlins with a 18" Overhang beyond post on all sides
40 yr warranty metal panel
ridge cap
rake trim
drip edge
screws and hardware
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Yes I built it myself with help of son in law and youngest daughter's boyfriend. Took about 4 days to finish finish it once started, which included hauling and spreading gravel.

I did rent two sections of scaffolding and a walk board for 2 weeks ($80) and used 2 -12' step ladders to get the rest.

I made a boom pole for my tractor bucket and used it to lift the assembled trusses up on the post.

We lifted the post up by hand, drop in hole and walk them up. Yes they are heavy bitches.

The metal was just walked up ladder and laid on the top, I would pull in place and add screws. worked my way down one side, then the other.

I live out in the country as well, but I got a building permit so it didn't get caught or hassled later on. All they checked was to make sure bottom of footer was solid and then inspected complete unit.

The build pics are in this thread starting on page 17. https://nc4x4.com/forum/threads/coronavirus-project-thread.196951/page-17

I went with 16' post and my building is 13'4" as I did not need 14' height. Also I paid with cash and picked up the building which saved me a few hundred bucks.
 
On the 16x40 part, is it 16' between posts or a bit less because of where they put the post? I noticed they said 18" overhand on eaves too so instead of 16' wide we are maybe 19' "under roof?"

The trusses, sounds like two guys walked it up, not so heavy they could not get it up on top. Just wondering how you made 100% certain each pole depth so the roof is even? One pole not higher/lower or in/out, etc? That is the part that I think intimidates me the most is getting those right, if you saw the rails on the porch I built you would understand why. (Crooked as a snake!)
 
SHINTON said:
On the 16x40 part, is it 16' between posts or a bit less because of where they put the post? I noticed they said 18" overhand on eaves too so instead of 16' wide we are maybe 19' "under roof?"

The trusses, sounds like two guys walked it up, not so heavy they could not get it up on top. Just wondering how you made 100% certain each pole depth so the roof is even? One pole not higher/lower or in/out, etc? That is the part that I think intimidates me the most is getting those right, if you saw the rails on the porch I built you would understand why. (Crooked as a snake!)
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The layout is on centers, except the layout of the building which is outside of post to outside of post (i.e. a 40x60 building is to the outside of the posts not the centers or inside, I've seen contractors have to dig up a whole row of posts after that mistake. ). The kits come with layout dimensions. And you're right, the eave overhang will make the actual roof wider, they can add extra overhang as well if you want.

As far as heights, you plumb and set the posts then cut them all the same height after they are in place using a string line, water level, laser, whatever you've got.

On a 16' wide truss you could definitely do it by hand easily, but a skid steer and boom pole make it even easier.
Saw some trusses come back the other day because a contractor got lazy and used an excavator/thumb to grab and lift them/turn them into pretzels, don't make that mistake.
 
The 16x40 is outside to outside of post. That is correct on the over hang, 2' on each end and 18" on each side equals 19x44 under roof. I guess two hefty/strong guys could walk the trusses up on 16' wide. My other shed is 24' and those were too heavy.
I used strings and corner boards to get it laid out and square (critical in my opinion). Use the string to make sure all the poles are straight in line as well as a level to my sure the are straight vertically.

I used a transit to make sure all of my holes were very close to the same depth. Then used the transit to drive some mall stakes in the holes, making sure they were all exactly the same height and poured concrete to top of stakes. This way all of the poles end up the same height. Pics of the corners and strings in the project thread.

Edit**** posted same time as braxton. You can set post and cut them off, but I find it easier to set the height of the footers and cut poles before putting them up.

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89wrangler said:
The 16x40 is outside to outside of post. That is correct on the over hang, 2' on each end and 18" on each side equals 19x44 under roof. I guess two hefty/strong guys could walk the trusses up on 16' wide. My other shed is 24' and those were too heavy.
I used strings and corner boards to get it laid out and square (critical in my opinion). Use the string to make sure all the poles are straight in line as well as a level to my sure the are straight vertically.

I used a transit to make sure all of my holes were very close to the same depth. Then used the transit to drive some mall stakes in the holes, making sure they were all exactly the same height and poured concrete to top of stakes. This way all of the poles end up the same height. Pics of the corners and strings in the project thread.

Edit**** posted same time as braxton. You can set post and cut them off, but I find it easier to set the height of the footers and cut poles before putting them up.
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I've got one of these for that, makes it a lot easier to cut them off square and level while standing on a ladder, otherwise you right it can suck.

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So to really get 20' on the 'inside' I am thinking even more that I will get the 22' wide model, should net me approx 21' inside the poles vs 19' inside the 20' version. Also sounds like with a 22' wide truss that is def getting too heavy for manual labor, will need a device of some sort to get it up to height. Waiting to hear back from them on cost for contractors to install and if anyone here wants to send me a price that would be awesome too! This is Forsyth County, right next to Walkertown, NC in case you need to map it. Looking at either the 22x40 or the 22x50 version. I could provide labor myself and hire 1 or 2 strong / young backs if that made difference or better yet promise to stay out of the way and let the professional(s) work!! :)
 
SHINTON said:
So to really get 20' on the 'inside' I am thinking even more that I will get the 22' wide model, should net me approx 21' inside the poles vs 19' inside the 20' version. Also sounds like with a 22' wide truss that is def getting too heavy for manual labor, will need a device of some sort to get it up to height. Waiting to hear back from them on cost for contractors to install and if anyone here wants to send me a price that would be awesome too! This is Forsyth County, right next to Walkertown, NC in case you need to map it. Looking at either the 22x40 or the 22x50 version. I could provide labor myself and hire 1 or 2 strong / young backs if that made difference or better yet promise to stay out of the way and let the professional(s) work!! :)
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Aint gonna be me..lol I am getting too old for that stuff. You can bet if I could afford to have it built, I would have!
 
89wrangler said:
The 16x40 is outside to outside of post. That is correct on the over hang, 2' on each end and 18" on each side equals 19x44 under roof. I guess two hefty/strong guys could walk the trusses up on 16' wide. My other shed is 24' and those were too heavy.
I used strings and corner boards to get it laid out and square (critical in my opinion). Use the string to make sure all the poles are straight in line as well as a level to my sure the are straight vertically.

I used a transit to make sure all of my holes were very close to the same depth. Then used the transit to drive some mall stakes in the holes, making sure they were all exactly the same height and poured concrete to top of stakes. This way all of the poles end up the same height. Pics of the corners and strings in the project thread.

Edit**** posted same time as braxton. You can set post and cut them off, but I find it easier to set the height of the footers and cut poles before putting them up.

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Ok, so how did you anchor to your footer? I really like the approach but don't see how you tied it to the little pads.
 
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