monster 4runner

TV cable was hanging up. We cycled it a couple of times and the transmission shifted normally through all four gears. Tranny shop is replacing the cable and also checking the throttle valve to make certain that it is ok.

Should get it back tonight.
 
Yesterday I removed the factory Holset H1C turbocharger and replaced it with a new Holset HX35W. The H1C was only boosting about 4-6 PSI at wide open throttle, but would occassionally kick up to 11 PSI. It is supposed to boost 14 PSI. The HX35W will boost about 23-26 PSI.
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The new Holset HX35W is on the left and the old Holset H1C is on the right.
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What a pain in the butt! The HX35W fits the same bolt pattern on the exhaust manifold, but that's about it. It's soo much larger than the H1C that I had to cut about 1.5" out of the exhaust system and then reshape the firewall to clear the downpipe. I will need to remotely mount my oil filter before I can install the intake tubing. Hopefully I can find a remote mount kit next week. I've ordered a silicone hump tube and a reducer to allow me to attach the larger turbo to the intercooler. They will arrive next week.
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The reason that the H1C was not boosting correctly was because it was full of oil due to a bad seal. Now I need to figure out how to clean the water to air intercooler. Any ideas????
 
4-Runner Pics

O.K.....I got tired of waiting on Robert to add some more pics to his build thread, so I decided to do it for him :)
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Sorry for the lack of updates. I've been taking care of little things, but now I have a major problem to deal with. I had a bearing and gear to grenade on the right rear portal box. It actually knocked a chunk out of the portal housing where the bearing was seated. I will have to buy another portal box which will not be cheap...

I have a line on a replacement axle that I may be able to pick up tomorrow to scavenge parts off of. Wish me luck.
 
How did that happen? I figured a 41/2 ton axle would be un-breakable. Keep us posted!
 
The roller bearing in the top gear of the portal box froze up and came apart.
The wall thickness where the part broke is only about 1/8" thick. It is strange. I'll take some photos later.
 
Danny Williams at Eagle Mfg. is a genious. It only took him a couple of hours to come up with a plan and then to mill the box smooth and to make a plate to repair the damage.

I've ordered the replacement bearings and seals from Eurotruck Improrters, and hope to reassemble everything when I get home from China. I should be back together by December 18th.
 
The new bearings will not arrive until about the middle of January so I am still on three wheels. I was hoping that they would be here when I got home from China but no luck...
Yesterday still I got a good bit done. I removed the front limit straps and installed a complete set of front and rear quad-wrap straps from BillyBob13 on Pirate4x4. Great quality at a good price.
Next, I removed all of the brake caliper mounting brackets and drilled and tapped them to accept larger hardware. Then, I pulled the front coilovers and removed the aluminum mounts from the shafts. I modified a set of bumpstops to slide onto the shaft and fit inside the coil springs and reinstalled the everything.
Finally, I replaced the rear dual rate coils with a new set of 400lb. springs which match the rate of the front coils. This should make the front and rear of the rig work the same. The springs on the rear were too soft and caused the body to lean when the front axle flexed.
This was a lot of fun working in the sleet and snow....
 
Robert, what kind of electric radiator fan did you tell me you were using? Also do you have the part number for it? Thanks
 
gmentavlos said:
Robert, what kind of electric radiator fan did you tell me you were using? Also do you have the part number for it? Thanks
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Hi George,

I bought it at AutoZone. It is a Torqflo 16" diameter low profile electric fan. Part number 733700 and costs $64.99. I got $20 off when I bought mine because of their frequent buyer program.
 
A couple of pics...
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The front bumpstops are not pushed down on the shafts. When they are slid down I will have about 4" before they start working as stops...
 
I removed the seats and ripped out all of the sound deadening from the floors and then Herculined the floorboards. I had the upholstery shop to upholster the seats using marine grade vinyl. I decided not to go back with the original cloth material because it was hard to clean. I stayed with the original colors so that everything would work with the door panels and trim. I installed them yesterday during my lunch break and I think that they look pretty good.
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I had thought of buying a set of race seats, but from what I saw, the stock Toyota seats are just as comfortable, and they have passed NTSB testing. I had all of the seats upholstered as cheap as buying a set of entry level aftermarket seats.
I made another acquisition this past week. I bought a set of Staun internal beadlocks, but I have not attempted to install them yet. I will attack that next week.
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I am still waiting on my parts to put the rear portal box back together. They are hung up in US Customs in Memphis. I hope to get them by the end of the week.
 
The parts to repair the portal box are in. I will put it back together today and finally be back on four wheels.

I bought a couple of welders this past week so now I can do my own welding. I bought a nice used Lincoln Square Wave 255 TIG and a new Linicoln Pro MIG 180. I still need to get the gas tank for the MIG, but everything else is ready to go.
 
I opened the box of parts today and found that the portal box/axle bearing is the wrong one. After waiting a full month I am no closer to getting it back on four wheels...:shaking:
 
Portal boxes are back together and everything works well.
I've been playing with the new TIG and I thought that the tube bumpers would look better with the filler plates to give them more of a finished look. I used 1/8" steel plate to make the panels. I think that they came out pretty good.
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Nice welding work Robert! I meant to tell you the radiator you gave me won't work. My shock hoop on the passenger side blocks the inlet and outlet of the radiator. If you wan't it back, let me know. George
 
gmentavlos said:
Nice welding work Robert! I meant to tell you the radiator you gave me won't work. My shock hoop on the passenger side blocks the inlet and outlet of the radiator. If you wan't it back, let me know. George
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If you don't need it I will take it. Maybe I can stop by and see your rig.

Robert
 
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