My Yota Build

dirt rocker said:
did you do a drivetrain lift or was the clocking with the dual trannys enough to get the flat belly? i know you said you had to redo the floor pan but i wasnt sure if it was because of a drivetrain lift or just because of rust or something like that. if you did do a drivetrain lift how much trouble was it? im really considering dual trannys. ive got a high pinion elocker front and a taco elocker in the rear with 5.29s. i think i can sell those, buy another set with 4.10s and actually come out ahead even after buying the dual tranny adapter. plus gain back all the strength of 4.10s over 5.29s. ive already got the second tranny. might can even score a r151 with messed up syncros for cheap from my brother. not a big deal cause you dont need the syncros in the rear tranny right? really like your rig by the way. good to see some people still know how to cut fenders and make tires fit where they shouldnt.
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Well, thanks for the complement. And I'll do my best to answer your questions.

I clocked the tranny and did the drivetrain lift. I HAD to cut the floor up. I have no body lift. With a 2" body lift you probably do it with minimal cutting, maybe just some bfh massaging.

It wasnt that hard to do. It just is a big step. If you have no body lift, and want it flat. You have to hack the shit out of your floor. Rebuild seat mounts, the entire tunnel etc....

That said, It was one of the best things I've done. I've got more clearance on 38.5sx than my buddy on tons and 39" iroks in his blazer.

As far as the syncros in the tranny, If found that I use the front tranny as the range box and the 2nd tranny for shifting duties. Its just that the shifters worked out that way and the second trannys shifter sits perfectly in my hand.

We're building my buddies 82 that he just picked up with tons and dual trannies right now. Threads on pirate.

Have you read my pirate build thread? Theres alot of info there.

Also, you know budbuilt is going into production in a week or so with these adapters, and there only a couple hundred bucks.

Either way, if I can answer any other questoins let me know.

CJ
 
CJ

thanks for the info. i was hoping you'd say the floor pan work wasnt because of a drivetrain lift but i guess if it was easy everybody would have flat belly yotas.

if you get a chance could you post a link for your buildup on pirate. i tired looking but couldnt find it.

thanks again for the help

Gabe
 
Finally got a coat of paint on it.
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I LOVE the tube going into the cab above the a-pillar... take a shot of the inside looking up? :beer:
 
GSRswapandslow said:
how much do you think it'd cost to get a flatbed and exo like yours fabbed up for?
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Depending on who you go to, I'd say 700-2000. Really varies, Andy at CRS did the front half for 1100. That also included setting up my high steer, high steer links, and several other parts. I'd say 6-700 went into money for the actual front half.
 
Do you plan on supporting the rear part of the cage any more? Like bringing another couple tubes down to tie in the top ones over the bed.
 
Thought about it, nope. I think the'll be fine in a roll over, if they do crush. There easy enough to replace. They would make it a pain in the ass to get things in and out of the bed area. I want to to be functional space.
 
Havent posted in a while in this thread.

Ok, this is my attempt at a antiwrap bar. I have about 3" of lift, so the upper link sits flat pretty much. My understanding is that this will improve my antisquat numbers.

Opinions before I weld everything in.

You can also sorta see my rear axle truss.

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