no fuel output from IP ???

Ridgerunner

Ridgerunner

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Location
Fuquay Varina, NC
HELP ! no fuel output from IP ???

1996 3500 12v
I drove my truck to the store it ran fine no Issues. I get back in it to go back to work and it would not fire. to day I replaced the Lift pump thinking that it was the problem. I had seen diesel fuel leaking from the hand pump plunger before so that made me think that was the issue.
After the new Lift pump was installed it would still not fire. I then cracked open one of the injection lines from the top of the IP and cranked and I got nothing not even a drop. it was acting like it was turned off.
now I do not really know how this is suppose to work but the plunger that is behind the IP I think what shuts the fuel off. whether the key is on or off it does not move. when the key is on I can pull it up and it will lock in the up position but will still not start or pump any fuel at all.
Does any one have any Suggestions. I am really hoping that the IP did take a dump.
Thanks
Carl
__________________
 
hmmm.....sounds exactly like when my IP took a dump. Well not exactly, mine hung open at WOT first, then after I pulled over, stalled it out, and tried to collect myself, it wouldnt restart. :poop:

I tapped the banjo bolt on the IP inlet, confirming I had good pressure and not just a trickle. Fuel came out of the overflow, but when I cracked the lines at the injectors, nothing. First I cracked the lines at the IP/delivery valve, but I was told to go back and check at the injectors. I dunno why, but still no fuel.

It sounds like your fuel shutoff solenoid working. It should pull up on its own, I think when you turn the key all the way to crank it. I had to recruit the wife to be a key turner to confirm this. If you go from off to on, I don't think it pulls up yet, but you can pull it up manually and it will stick.

I hope its not your IP either, thats no fun to change. Mine had a stuck plunger in the IP. $1100 for a rebuild at Diesel Equipment in GSO.
 
The fuel shutoff valve should move as soon as you turn the key to crank and not move again till you turn off the ignition. Don't assume its a bad shutoff though make sure that you have power going to it before you deem the part to be bad. Test at the shutoff harness plug with the harness still connected. With the key switch to RUN you should have 5.2 volts (HOLD) atleast on the red and black wires. If that checks out ok what you want to do is hold the shutoff rod in the shutdown position and have someone turn the key to the START position, when they do this you should get a reading of 8.5 volts(pull) atleast on the white and black wires. The reason why there is two different voltages is one is called PULL voltage and the other is HOLD voltage.

Let me know how it turns out.
Thanks
 
NCDieselWrench said:
The fuel shutoff valve should move as soon as you turn the key to crank and not move again till you turn off the ignition. Don't assume its a bad shutoff though make sure that you have power going to it before you deem the part to be bad. Test at the shutoff harness plug with the harness still connected. With the key switch to RUN you should have 5.2 volts (HOLD) atleast on the red and black wires. If that checks out ok what you want to do is hold the shutoff rod in the shutdown position and have someone turn the key to the START position, when they do this you should get a reading of 8.5 volts(pull) atleast on the white and black wires. The reason why there is two different voltages is one is called PULL voltage and the other is HOLD voltage.

Let me know how it turns out.
Thanks
Click to expand...

Thanks I wil check that out tonight. But...
Even if I manualy push the soleniod up it and it will hold, it will not start, I can here the fuel passing throught th IP when I hand pump it.
oh I should mention that I have 180kon the motor
__________________
 
a few things I checked when I had IP problems...

I cracked all the banjo bolts one at a time to make sure when I was priming the lift pump fuel was coming out.. which it was.. then after that I cracked the #1, #2, and #3 lines ontop of injectors and pumped again.. if you do that and still nothing coming out then you more then likely have a IP problem.

when I had my IP rebuilt I took it to Chason Diesel and they did a great job and were very fair on the price.
 
Why not yank the FSO *plunger*? If the plunger isn't retracting up into the solenoid, pulling it all together will let you know if it's causing the problem...

Keep in mind that every time you pull the the FSO solenoid, you'll have to re-prime everything. We went thru this on a buds 1st Gen... which sounded exactly like Tony's deal: went WOT on the highway, he shut it off, coasted to the shoulder, nothing... we putzed with it for a week and he finally put on a reman IP from Pensacola Diesel... took a few days worth of cranking/priming (eventually found a bold "notice" hidden in the FSM saying the priming lever on the older diagram type LPs *MUST* be placed back in a certain position after priming or it'd not pump via the engine) and she fired right up.

Based on his, *IF* your IP grenaded (his had TONS of metal shards near the line end), flush the injector lines and have your injectors tested before trying to fire it. He lost 2 injectors, apparently due to metal fleck making it out of the IP.
 
BIGWOODY said:
Are you running WVO? Or I should ask have you been running WVO?
Click to expand...

yes
the wierd thing was it was running fine and I just shut it off and went into the store and 15 min later came back and nothing.
at the time I was running B20 and had been for a few days
I am going to look at it more tonight. I really fine it hard to beleive that the pump grenaded while sitting in the parking lot.
 
Caver Dave said:
... which sounded exactly like Tony's deal: went WOT on the highway, he shut it off, coasted to the shoulder, nothing....
Click to expand...
lucky him, mine continued to run when I "shut it off"

Ridgerunner said:
yes
the wierd thing was it was running fine and I just shut it off and went into the store and 15 min later came back and nothing.
at the time I was running B20 and had been for a few days
Click to expand...
I had been running some really crappy WVO with lots of water. Lesson learned.
 
Ridgerunner said:
I really fine it hard to beleive that the pump grenaded while sitting in the parking lot.
Click to expand...
the last wo pumps we replaced on 12V's had the same scenario. Worked great one minute and the next, no start. If you crack the lines going to the injectors you might see a little fuel come out, the problem is it's not enough to overcome the opening pressure of your injectors. If you've tried to manually pull the plunger up and still no fire, I'd bet it's time for an IP and a better filteration/water removal system for your WVO.
 
Well with the help of NC MOG we dropped off at Chason Diesel in garner tonight. It is now in the hands of some one who knows WTF they are doing.


Thanks again Kimball
 
If it is the IP I'd be curious as to what they charged, I've been told we're too cheap when it comes to working on those trucks.
 
BIGWOODY said:
If it is the IP I'd be curious as to what they charged, I've been told we're too cheap when it comes to working on those trucks.
Click to expand...

Is this what yo mean? (you have been told "they" we're to cheap to work on CTD's?)

They rebuilt my IP pump and it worked great.. they even helped me with other small issues when my truck was at there shop for free.

I would say after my experience they we're NOT over priced like other places.. and they were all great nice freindly guys..
 
They are today Checking it out. They said that it might be the Pressure releive valve in the IP it might not be allowing the pressure to build up. they are Charging 1 hour labor to check it out. Very friendly and nice to deal with so far. As far as the cost "it is what it is". I want "Value of service" this is the first time in 11 years I have taken a vehicle of mine to a shop for repair for just that reason. I find it is very hard to find Good value in a shop. I like that fact that they really want to fine out exaclty what the problem is and not just Shot gun to the solution.

I am not saying that other shops are not like this but that has been my over all experince in most cases.
 
BRUISER said:
Is this what yo mean? (you have been told "they" we're to cheap to work on CTD's?)
They rebuilt my IP pump and it worked great.. they even helped me with other small issues when my truck was at there shop for free.
I would say after my experience they we're NOT over priced like other places.. and they were all great nice freindly guys..
Click to expand...

The way I read Greg's post is that everyone else must be charging a lot more than what he (Greg) charges at his shop to work on a 12V.
 
BRUISER said:
Is this what yo mean? (you have been told "they" we're to cheap to work on CTD's?)
..
Click to expand...
No our shop.....we did a marine headgasket/ARP studs on a 24v for $1000 out the door and we were told that was awfully cheap by a couple of other diesel shops in the area. I know what we charge for an IP, I was just curious what other people are getting for doing them.
 
Well the verdict is in............

it is not the IP:bounce2::bounce::bounce2::bounce:


WE are pretty sure I had 2 problems.
1st the Check valve in the Lift pump was not working causing the fuel to drain back.
2nd the Shutoff solenoid does not work all of the time

The reason I could not get it to run was after all the work to replace the lift pump I did not spend enough time getting it primed. I guess I was so piss off at it that I did not try hard enough to prime it.When it would not even think about starting, and then when I saw no fuel comeing out of the IP I just gave up.
 
great news. so bad overflow valve and some faulty wiring to the solenoid? I thought the solenoids rarely go bad, but are often replaced in an attmept to fix fuel issues.
 
RenegadeT said:
great news. so bad overflow valve and some faulty wiring to the solenoid? I thought the solenoids rarely go bad, but are often replaced in an attmept to fix fuel issues.
Click to expand...
We are replacing the soleniod and the relay. Just as a CYA my discision
 
Ridgerunner said:
oh and also the stock fuel plate went bad
good thing I had a #10 plate in the glove box :) LOL
:driver:
Click to expand...

now how does the fuel plate go bad? :confused:
I had a clutch-slipping previous-owner-ground plate in mine. When the IP was rebuilt, they said they couldnt get the governor adjusted with that plate, so they dropped in a stocker. Makes me wonder if my IP failure was water in oil or PO monkey business.
 
Back
Top