On to the next one: Bronco build

I like the long arm radius arm kit from desolate but it's in the 3-5k range on pricing. Which blows my budget out of the water. I'm back and forth between going for it and keeping it budget friendly though.View attachment 302921
This bronco is on the desolate kit with 40s, but I haven't seen any real world reviews or installs of the kit. So it may not work well in the situations I want it to, theres no telling. Also. It's really hard to find bullnose examples of broncos, almost all of the ones I find that are wheeled are the 92-96 body style.
buy a three link kit from barnes 4wd. and get some coilsprings and buckets from a newer truck 250 gas truck.
 
buy a three link kit from barnes 4wd. and get some coilsprings and buckets from a newer truck 250 gas truck.
I've seen that as an option and if my design skills were better I may go that route. But I think I have proved to myself with my yj i have some more learning to do when it comes to suspension design, so I'll leave 3 links to others. I'm all for some built not bought stuff, but it's hard to beat a well designed kit for specifically this vehicle application/axle combo.

In other news, I pulled the bronco off the trailer today so I could try to finish cleaning the mossy film off of it. Replaced replaced rusty starter solenoid and positive and negative battery cables while I was at it. Still trying to decide on what to do about the frame. I'm not sure there is enough room to plate the frame sections since directly after it is a body mount and it only runs for 4 or 5 inches before it reaches the end of the frame horn. I guess my concern is, in this amount of space, would a fishplate(think that's the correct term) be strong enough? Attached a photo trying to show what's going on with it using another bronco as an example. I keep forgetting to take some photos of it when I'm out there.
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There should be plenty of material to work with. You're going to weld the vertical seam and put a fish plate over the top of it. There's two basic designs.
<> Or >=<
Reason the fish plate works is that it creates a longer weld area as well as distributing the heat affected zone so that it isn't in a straight line and doesn't create a stress riser. @WARRIORWELDING or @mcutler could explain more as to the why. I would say that as long as the fish plate can extend as long as the seam is tall, you'll be just fine to patch it back together. Hopefully I provided a half decent explanation.
 
There should be plenty of material to work with. You're going to weld the vertical seam and put a fish plate over the top of it. There's two basic designs.
<> Or >=<
Reason the fish plate works is that it creates a longer weld area as well as distributing the heat affected zone so that it isn't in a straight line and doesn't create a stress riser. @WARRIORWELDING or @mcutler could explain more as to the why. I would say that as long as the fish plate can extend as long as the seam is tall, you'll be just fine to patch it back together. Hopefully I provided a half decent explanation.
So your saying, as long as the distance from point to point on the <> or inner point to inner point on >=< is at least as long as the distance of the seam weld is tall, and at least as thick as the frame, the plating should be strong enough to support suspension weight/winch pulls? I appreciate the help from everyone, just trying to get a better idea of what my next step should be and dont want to always be worried the frame will fail there.

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So your saying, as long as the distance from point to point on the <> or inner point to inner point on >=< is at least as long as the distance of the seam weld is tall, and at least as thick as the frame, the plating should be strong enough to support suspension weight/winch pulls? I appreciate the help from everyone, just trying to get a better idea of what my next step should be and dont want to always be worried the frame will fail there.

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seems you have a good grasp. If you plate it, you'll be fine.
 
Have you looked at the James duff suspensions? I was looking at them when I had my shortbed f150
 
Hers some photos of my frame currently.
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Put the headlights from my yj as well as the fancy hella relay harness in the bronco today, should improve the lighting situation. Hoping to pull it into the shop after we get the f350 brakes replaced (having some issues with collapsing lines) and the 66 bronco needs a new crank pulley. But soon she'll be rolld in and get some por before getting a new fuel tank and pumps. Then to look at the frame sections and tackle those.
 
Went and grabbed another bronco with a good frame (that actually runs, even if sh*tty). Has some extra stuff I may be able to use in mine as well, fuel tank and both fuel pumps (to see if my other engine runs before putting $$$ into a fuel system in it. Just need time with this one. Headers for the 302. And if worst comes to worse and i dont want to mess with the cluster that is the previous owners unknown engine, a running 302 that I can just say f*ck it and slap a sniper on.
 

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Working on getting the donor bronco ready to pop the frame off and also getting the f350 ready for brakes. Planning to build a couple of oversized sawhorses and using them and some chain hoists to lift the bodies off and set them down on some bricks. Really wanting to get a roll on this project so that by the time me and the fiancee close on our house I'll have a running bronco since I wont have a shop for a while.
 

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Well with the jeep body and frame sold and the engine sold, I'm finally able to start spending some money. Found a shop who will rebuild my transmission and planning to run a behemoth 1356 doubler with a 205, so I know where my budget needs to be for that. Ordered my sas kit from skys offroad designs and a shackle flip kit for the rear. Should sit at about 4.5 inches over stock suspension height on a superduty front leaf spring up front. Ordered new poly body bushings and half a gallon of por to coat the frame to keep it solid in the future. Been busting my back to get the donor frame ready to be moved from under the bronco. Its finally starting to feel like its coming along. Especially in such a short time.
 
Pulled the body off the donor frame. Excited to start on cleaning it up and getting my axles and tires under this frame. One of the body mounts on each side needs to be patched but it's a simple patch aside from making a 2 inch hole. Everything in time though, also need to.pull the factory drivetrain and core support still.
 
Started to strip the frame and cleaned up the sterling. I got some u bolt eliminator perches for the rear, gonna tack them in place, roughly so I can roll everything around. Hoping to sell a few parts off of the donor bronco to help fund some more stuff. Also bought a holley sniper efi, hoping it will make the plumbing and wiring a bit easier for me in the end. Once I get the drivetrain out, I am going to sandblast the frame, weld the brackets for the axles on, do the frame repair and start on laying out all of the plumbing on the frame before I work on stripping the new body to drop it on the prepped frame.
 

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Ran into a roadblock with the leaf springs. All the bolts have been frozen in the bushings, so had to cut the bolts, chisel the hanger off the frame and I'm going to press the bushings out once I get an extra set of hands to hold the leaf spring while I operate the press. One step forward and two steps back as they say. Sold a few more parts of the bronco. Hoping to find a buyer for the aod and bw 1356 so I dont have to store it.
 
You can use two sections of pipe and all thread to press the bushing out alternatively..
I have been using a ball joint press and was just barely able to press the center barrel out of one after an hour of cranking with a 3 foot breaker bar/ratchet. They are stuck in there pretty well.
 
Torch will also remove the rubber bushing albeit a bit messier. But more fun I suppose.
I tried using a propane torch but didnt seem like I was able to get enough heat to actual make an impact. I've had the hole saw recommended before I'll have to see if I have one the proper size. Might try that first
 
Well, found out I ordered the wrong u bolt eliminators and that they dont make them for a 3 inch spring, past the return date so, stuck with some $80 paper weights. Now to wait for the correct u bolts/perches and plates. But I got the bronco in the shop last night, had a buddy help press the bushings out and cut the sleeves out this morning. Hoping the springs settle once the body is on it.
 

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Got the trans and t case pulled today and with any luck, they'll be sold by the end of the week. Hoping to drain the fluids, pull the core support and engine and get around to removing the front axle and suspension. Looking forward to getting the frame standing on the new suspension.
 

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Little progress every day. Engine pulled this weekend and have 6 bolts (steering, one pivot bolt and the sway bar bolts) left to hopefully pull the front suspension out. Then on to a short frame extension and getting ready to flip the frame over to get the front cross member welded in.
 

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Wish I had seen this. I have an 80 Bronco frame behind my shop I'd give you if you come get it.... Looks like a fun project.
 
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