Project: PackMule

XJsavage said:
This is very cool! I'll be following along on this one for sure. I have a soft spot for a burban. :D
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Me too and I love fullsize rigs on the trail even if they take up to much space!!! Lol
 
Had a few hours this morn to finish front rear down not cutting clip gonna tube and bolt outer fenders back to that pulling axle sat out of front and cutting frame back to engine mounts gonna tube from there forward! Really wanna link it but after I get the 52 up front and it moves axle forward I may be happier we'll see!
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Here's these amazing floorboards... smdh
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Pass side
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C.Berry said:
So everyone has talked my into a mig welder as much as I love to stick weld, I wanna be efficient with mig and it's just easier so I hear lol I'm going 1.75/ 120 dom for main hoops. Hobart 140 will be more than enough For what I'm doing wouldn't it? My issue with migs are setting wire speed and heat just right where with a stick I control my filler speed by hand... I wanna tig it all but not happening on this rig maybe the blazer I'll tig and can post up some weld porn! And to use my stick I'd need 400' of 1/0 for either leafs or extension cord so that's no go... lol and I will be buying a extra stick for just practicing bc my family will be in this rig and i don't want any stupid errors due to my welding skills! What say ye I know it's been discussed but I know of two diff shops welding cages with 140 and no issues! I'm confident in my welding penetration but it's not always pretty lol
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I liked welding with stick when I was doing some heavy work at my last job...but in the garage, MIG is where it's at. I wouldn't worry too much with the setting wire speed and heat. Each welder should come with a recommended settings chart either on the inside of the cover, or a reference in the instructions. They always work great for a general guideline, but sometimes you'd need to fiddle with the wire feed speed a bit. I always tend to run my wire speed a tad faster than what is on the chart, especially on thinner metals to help prevent some burn-through. You can get away with what they list for heavier stuff generally right on what they tell you. The 140 should be fine for doing things up to 3/16" thick. They'd probably recommend a double pass for 1/4-5/16" material. I'd be careful running the machine with an extension cord, though. Could trip a breaker if it's pulling too much current, or have weak penetration. Unless you do have a pretty hefty cord.
 
C.Berry said:
Oh wow yeah that's sexy for sure!! I'd have that as a daily driver without a doubt!
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I did until 2007.....then gas shot thru the roof. It was hell filling the 41 gallon tank when it got to be $3.70 a gallon, especially when she struggled to get 8mpg with my lead foot...so I sold it :mad::(
 
For all you fellas that have truggys with cab still on would you chop the top if ya had to do over?? Considering leaving cab to behind rear seats for cover from elements !? I've talked myself out of elliptical 4link also, simply bc the droop it allows on rear I'll pony up and get rear coilovers used off fb or some shit later on and do triangulated 4link if I can remember how to use a damn calculator lol
 
CasterTroy said:
I did until 2007.....then gas shot thru the roof. It was hell filling the 41 gallon tank when it got to be $3.70 a gallon, especially when she struggled to get 8mpg with my lead foot...so I sold it :mad::(
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My heart breaks for ya man... that was a beauty!! I managed to let off the throttle a little when gas got up then my lil small blocks keep me in the v8 game lol
 
So all he who have truggys and know this knowledge of long term hard wheeling... can I use HREW for my engine cage section front fenders and boatside or am I just wasting time and money replacing it when if it fails?? I'm going DOM for all of cage but wasn't sure if saving the cash for all DOM is worth it... this will end up being my main rig more than likely now that I've got going on it! So this year rides aren't in the play book especially with a baby coming in July, and biggest jobs of the year is aug... so I'm gonna take my time but want to get some tube to start the front soon as I hire help to assist with the rear cutoff!
 
Also is hrew ok for my seat tube mounts? I will roll it without a doubt so don't want damn seats tearing off hrew when it's shoulda been DOM... thanks I swear I'll have a keg strapped in the burb for when this beast finally makes a ride!! *keg only optional Without woman/kids of course...
 
C.Berry said:
So all he who have truggys and know this knowledge of long term hard wheeling... can I use HREW for my engine cage section front fenders and boatside or am I just wasting time and money replacing it when if it fails?? I'm going DOM for all of cage but wasn't sure if saving the cash for all DOM is worth it... this will end up being my main rig more than likely now that I've got going on it! So this year rides aren't in the play book especially with a baby coming in July, and biggest jobs of the year is aug... so I'm gonna take my time but want to get some tube to start the front soon as I hire help to assist with the rear cutoff!
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It’s fine. It may dent easier than DOM,
Your not racing it. Some may say it’s unsafe but that’s what everyone used a few years ago and plenty of people build their whole rig out of it. Mccracken’s jeep is all hrew and it’s a full size jeep on tons and it has been fine for years


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tsconver said:
Look at the Vulcan omnipro 220. Had mine for a couple months and have run tank of c25 and 11pounds of wire throug it. It is a great little machine.
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That's what I'm picking up man!! Already got a 7000 watt generator to run it over where my rig is generator runs power tools like a charm!!
Loganwayne said:
It’s fine. It may dent easier than DOM,
Your not racing it. Some may say it’s unsafe but that’s what everyone used a few years ago and plenty of people build their whole rig out of it. Mccracken’s jeep is all hrew and it’s a full size jeep on tons and it has been fine for years


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That's what I wanted to hear!! Thanks!
 
NO DAMN TIME... :( I'll post progress pics as soon as i get more progress done! Getting motivated after work then work, to get into this builds killing me! Anyone have some low tread 40-42s shoot me a price, also curious if anyone needs the side rear windows out of burb will come with sheet metal around it! May have good barn doors for sale for cheap/trade, no rust that i recall on back doors no tint in any windows
 
Haven’t got much of shit done but did get a smoking deal on some iroks in 39.5 flavor! Doesn’t seem like a lot but that’s motivation to have some tires in close proximity of size I was shooting for.
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Now to pull the 52 off my K5 if in decent shape but doubtful and get them put up front ordering diy4x shackle flip for rear and new hangers for front 52 swap! Anyone on here has some decent shape 52” leafs I’m in the market for 52” for front and 56” for rear! I was gonna use the 63s I have for the rear but just damn noticed main leaf is broke at the pin! Linking the rear is my major goal before next year this time but going leafs till then, I’m tired of seeing y’all have all the fun!
 
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So from my research 73-87 Chevy 1/2 ton blazers have 56” rear leafs and 52” depending on HD... so with my 79 it’s a burb with 6pack leaf I’m assuming it’s a 56” as well so if that’s true I’ll probably keep those in rear and shackle flip picking up the 52” this weekend from junkyard for $50 so will have some more rusty ass truck pics soon! “If work allows me to tinker”
 
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