Project Sloan 93 yj

Mmmm rice crispies, and some snap crackle pop welds
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Plan is to run the upper rad hose and steam port to a y to the top of the coolant recirculating tank, run the lower line of the rich tank to the return heater line. 19 psi cap at the recirculating tank, 31 psi cap at the radiator to make sure the recirculating tank is where air bleeds. I will have to block off the bypass port on the water pump Dorman 555-019 is the right size, had to buy a 10 pack if someone wants to do the same . Needs a 3/16 hole in the plug so it bleeds air. Then 3/8 not on the heater feed. I will be deleting the thermostat since I don’t care how long it takes to heat up.

Air will bleed from the steam port on the motor, and from the nipple on the upper rad hose and any air will pressurize the recirculating tank forcing coolant back into the heater return actively bleeding the system as long as the recirculating bottle isn’t dry. Just like gm designed it to work

Also got a tj shroud on and rigged up the foam to space it 1” off the fan clutch and as centered as it can get. The rad will be able to pull from the top
 

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Dave’s customs unlimited

It’s made for a full hydro, but I’m using the inner frame plates from both sides to make a boxed section to clear the stock steering box which is on a 2” forward box mount that’s welded on to the frame. Winch is a warm m12000 clone from eBay. It has .5” clearance on either side of the winch. I will be filling the corner and making the winch hole centered on the winch not the frame


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Jeep YJ Hardcore Front Bumper Crossmember Assembly

Jeep YJ Hardcore Front Bumper Crossmember Assembly
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I call bs on steel it being weld through. I tried to coat all of the areas I can’t get to later. But that stuff makes for a lot of porosity. I did a really quick spray to make it as thin as I could. Looks like I’ll be spotting and grinding the welds smooth…
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Shreddinlettuce said:
I call bs on steel it being weld through. I tried to coat all of the areas I can’t get to later. But that stuff makes for a lot of porosity. I did a really quick spray to make it as thin as I could. Looks like I’ll be spotting and grinding the welds smooth…View attachment 448093
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Ian Johnson did a review of several paints for welding over them. He also did not like the steel-it. He recommended the Seymour paint and so far has seemed to work ok for me.

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ncsutj said:
Ian Johnson did a review of several paints for welding over them. He also did not like the steel-it. He recommended the Seymour paint and so far has seemed to work ok for me.

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It was a can I already had from doing sliders on an xj a few years back, I had similar results but thought it was how thick I applied it. This experience verifies it does not live up to the marketing. I will look into that stuff for the next project
 
Had the hardest time getting the cluster gear in without dropping the thrust washer on one side, found a cable mgmt thing to be the same width between the gears, allowed me to rotate the assembly one handed so I could hold the thrust washer with a finger on the other hand

And yes I did the swap wet so I would only need to buy 1 quart of fluid, hopefully
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