Project: Tetanus Shot - 1948 Willys

Got the seat frame fully welded up and installed. The tank fits and the tailgate closes.

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Now the fun part. If I go off the original mounting holes, the tank makes contact with the back of the seat and it would be difficult to make the mounting straps work. Seat is secure and doesn't move and the tank wouldn't move but I'm wondering if it would eventually rub holes in the back of the seat. If I scoot the tank towards the tailgate, I have a fingertips width of space between the tank and the seat but I would have to drill new holes(which normally isn't a problem) but I would be drilling through the rolled edge of the tub and wouldn't be able to capture a nut on the backside. I could always spot weld the mounting bracket to the the floor but then I'm left with how to properly secure the tank. I could always weld some bolts to it and see if the mounting straps would work but I'm also thinking of rachet straps or something similar.

Thoughts and opinions please. I remember reading that not securing this tank with appropriate mounting brackets leads to some issues like split seams.
 
YJJPWrangler said:
Got the seat frame fully welded up and installed. The tank fits and the tailgate closes.

View attachment 452754

Now the fun part. If I go off the original mounting holes, the tank makes contact with the back of the seat and it would be difficult to make the mounting straps work. Seat is secure and doesn't move and the tank wouldn't move but I'm wondering if it would eventually rub holes in the back of the seat. If I scoot the tank towards the tailgate, I have a fingertips width of space between the tank and the seat but I would have to drill new holes(which normally isn't a problem) but I would be drilling through the rolled edge of the tub and wouldn't be able to capture a nut on the backside. I could always spot weld the mounting bracket to the the floor but then I'm left with how to properly secure the tank. I could always weld some bolts to it and see if the mounting straps would work but I'm also thinking of rachet straps or something similar.

Thoughts and opinions please. I remember reading that not securing this tank with appropriate mounting brackets leads to some issues like split seams.
Click to expand...
What about some metal straps from the bar above and rubber bungs to align and stabilize at the bottom?
 
I currently have this bottom plate for the tank

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and I have these straps from Motobilt

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As you can see from the photo, I can't push the mounting plate to the rear and bolt it down. I could weld it down and then weld some bolt studs to capture the mounting straps. Or I could weld some loop tabs on the mounting plate and run some metal straps or similar to secure.
 
YJJPWrangler said:
I currently have this bottom plate for the tank

View attachment 452755

and I have these straps from Motobilt

View attachment 452756

As you can see from the photo, I can't push the mounting plate to the rear and bolt it down. I could weld it down and then weld some bolt studs to capture the mounting straps. Or I could weld some loop tabs on the mounting plate and run some metal straps or similar to secure.
Click to expand...
Rivnuts an option?
 
Got it figured out last night. Ended up welding a bunch of studs to capture all the nuts and got it all secured last night. Tank can only be removed by removing the tank and mount as one unit but that shouldn't be an issue in the future.

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Tailgate closes with no problem. The tank makes contact with the seat but its not pushing into the back of the seat so it shouldn't be an issue. I do have a remote fuel filler mount that I'm thinking about adding to make refueling a little easier but I still need to source the fuel hose and the tank adaptor. If anyone has any links or ideas on that, that would be helpful.

All that is left is buying harnesses/welding tab mounts, pull everything back apart for paint, plumbing the tank, and finishing up some electrical and it should be back up and running.
 
Got harness tabs welded in, remote fuel filler in and everything painted. Had to take apart the fuel pump in the tank last night as it had separated from the cup, turns out the line from the pump itself to the housing was a tad too long and had pushed the cup out over time. Fuel tank and seats are back in for good, everything is plumbed back in.

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Picking up some 1/0 wire and some misc connectors today to finish wiring for the battery relocation.
 
$168 worth of 1/0, 6 gauge and a few crimps and she’s running again. For fun, I cut up the old rotten tailgate that had “Willy’s” embossed on it and graphed it onto the current one. Welding half rotten/rusted sheet metal is a lesson in patience.

Going to address the timing issue tomorrow.

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Caver Dave said:
Timing issue?
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Well its not a timing issue. I think it's a TPS issue. I have a high idle(1600rpm). Even at operating temp, its high. If you blip the throttle, it will drop to 900rpm or so for a few seconds and then go right back up to 1500. I distinctly remember just bolting up the TPS and not adjusting it. I've checked my IAC as well as my temp cooling sensor and they seem to be functional.

Per our A.I overlords(Grok), I can backprobe the TPS with the motor not running, key on and it should return a value of .45-.55 volts at closed, 4.5 to 4.8 at wide open. Anything else I need to look out for?
 
YJJPWrangler said:
Well its not a timing issue. I think it's a TPS issue. I have a high idle(1600rpm). Even at operating temp, its high. If you blip the throttle, it will drop to 900rpm or so for a few seconds and then go right back up to 1500. I distinctly remember just bolting up the TPS and not adjusting it. I've checked my IAC as well as my temp cooling sensor and they seem to be functional.

Per our A.I overlords(Grok), I can backprobe the TPS with the motor not running, key on and it should return a value of .45-.55 volts at closed, 4.5 to 4.8 at wide open. Anything else I need to look out for?
Click to expand...
That's my recollection as well... while backprobing, twisting the TPS to the required voltage/resistance
 
you can ohm your tps too. You should see a good smooth climb and fall in resistance.

Also check for sensor voltage too of course.
 
I don't see any obvious vacuum leaks. I sprayed carb cleaner all around the tbi/intake with no change. Unplugging the IAC and the TCS didn't change anything. I distinctly remember replacing the TPS and I know I did not calibrate it correctly.

Other news, I switched over to a gear reduction drive starter from a 2000 silverado. Hoping to eliminate my hot start issues. Had to shim it(probably need to add one 1). But it cranked right back up while it was at operating temp so we will see.

@R Q what is the Jeepster's idle? Mine is currently around 1400. If I blip the throttle it drops to 900 for a few seconds but then climbs right back up to 1400

​

 
YJJPWrangler said:
I don't see any obvious vacuum leaks. I sprayed carb cleaner all around the tbi/intake with no change. Unplugging the IAC and the TCS didn't change anything. I distinctly remember replacing the TPS and I know I did not calibrate it correctly.

Other news, I switched over to a gear reduction drive starter from a 2000 silverado. Hoping to eliminate my hot start issues. Had to shim it(probably need to add one 1). But it cranked right back up while it was at operating temp so we will see.

@R Q what is the Jeepster's idle? Mine is currently around 1400. If I blip the throttle it drops to 900 for a few seconds but then climbs right back up to 1400

​

Click to expand...
I don't have a tach but it gets high and the hotter it gets the higher it gets. And if I blib the throttle it will settle down for a bit.
 
Backprobed the TPS sensor. Got a reading of .869. It's supposed to live in a range of .45-.55. I can only turn it CCW and get .765.

New TPS sensor or is something else going on?

This is what I have.

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Made a little more headway. Apparently there are two different tps sensors. The one I have is non adjustable, the other one is. However the other style has a different pin connection...

So I made mine adjustable. I slightly drilled out my mounting holes in the sensor and nailed .528 volts on the sensor. This should be right in the sweet spot of .45 to .55. I also picked up a new IAC sensor and will try it out.

Getting closer...
 
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