Quick cash: $40 an hour to "wash" an Ultra4 car

REDLYNER

REDLYNER

Mall Crawling Race Rig
Joined
Oct 31, 2008
Location
Mountain Island
Hey guys- the U4 Badlands water and mud got ahead of me on the race car. I've cleaned all of the mud and grit, but could use some help brillow padding the surface rust. Any high school or college kids looking to make some quick cash? Or board members just bored and want to crawl around the 4410?

Ideally I like to have 2 or 3 guys over and knock this thing out in an hour ($40 each in that hour). I've got cleaning supplies, just need a few extra hands.


Any members interested? Pm me for address and phone numb.

Where: North Charlotte (Mtn Island Lake)
When: Thurs night, or Fri afternoon, possibly Sat morning
Duration: An hour or so.

image.jpeg
 
Will everything in that pic get hosed down?
You answer could double the volunteerism.
 
Tacoma747 said:
Seems like some rustoleum paint would cost less than $120? I guess the bare metal thing is the cool think nowadays, not sure I understand why though?
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The value on the time to disassemble all that just to paint it would be way more than $120...
 
Bring it to me at the FD and I'll hold a pump training class for the donation!
 
Tacoma747 said:
Seems like some rustoleum paint would cost less than $120? I guess the bare metal thing is the cool think nowadays, not sure I understand why though?
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I always thought they did not paint it so it is easier to check the chassis after each race for cracks, damage, etc..
 
Tacoma747 said:
But would be so worth it...
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I'm not so sure...

I'm still trying to find time to reassemble mine after powder coating. It's a TON of time to put everything back together easily so the paint isn't damaged.

I almost wonder if it would be easier to paint it as you build it and just grind off the paint where you weld, then just spray it after its welded and move on. Then after building everything, it's already 90% painted and no major disassembly required.
 
rockcity said:
I'm not so sure...

I'm still trying to find time to reassemble mine after powder coating. It's a TON of time to put everything back together easily so the paint isn't damaged.

I almost wonder if it would be easier to paint it as you build it and just grind off the paint where you weld, then just spray it after its welded and move on. Then after building everything, it's already 90% painted and no major disassembly required.
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That's why you paint race cars chassis instead of powdercoating. Paint is easy to repair and touchup. The durability that makes powdercoat so attractive is also what makes it really hard to touch up.

Crack detection is easy with paint if it's thin. Thin layers will telegraph the cracks right to the surface generally, as opposed to thicker layers (or powdercoat usually) that can be more plastic and will bridge a crack if it's small and has little relative motion.

I know a lot of people that use the Rustoleum Industrial gray for roll cages and parts, because it's a good neutral color and very durable. A lot of people bake it after spraying for extra durability. Comes in spray cans.
 
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I've already caused, found, and had welded several cracks. As much as a sun burst orange powder coat would raise my mall cred, it would be much more difficult to see those with it (in my opinion).

Every time I take it out I spend over an hour pressure washing, air gun drying, towel drying, then Wd40'ing it down. It would be nice to throw some gun metal grey krylon on it, but taking the whole thing apart and putting back together is something I don't have the time or resources to complete. Plus, I would still do the same clean up each time I took it out (minus wd40 step).

Badlands was extra nasty, clean up was probably around 3 hours this time.
 
Gibbs oil works great, and it still allows welding and painting without fish eyes. Used it on my buggy. I'm not painting the chassis on the Manche, I'm going to use Sharkhide. Posted a couple questions about it and Mavcoat on pirate and Desert Rangers.

Here's the links, to review for yourself.

Mavcoat Steel Shield

Sharkhide

After discussion on other forums, sharkhide will be my product choice.


Congrats on qualifying Jay!

Matt
 
Haven't seen Sharkhide, interesting read on their site.
 
Why not just clearcoat it?
 
rockcity said:
I almost wonder if it would be easier to paint it as you build it and just grind off the paint where you weld, then just spray it after its welded and move on. Then after building everything, it's already 90% painted and no major disassembly required.
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I helped a buddy build up his truggy for Line Mountain races a couple years ago and this is what we did. Spray bomb as we went along.
It's the way to go IMO. Before it was "done" (in quotes b/c we all know its never done) it had already had a handful of joints scraped off and re-welded.
 
StretchASU said:
Metal can still rust underneath clearcoat.
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Yup.
A guy in our club built up an awesome CJ2A a few years ago, had a lot of mildy-rusted parts w/ a nice original-looking patina to it had a great cage put in. He really liked the way it looked w/ the bare metal cage, especially since the joints were TIG-welded and had a great coloration.
So he cleaned it really well and added a couple layers of clear coat.
Sadly within a year it was all rust-colored.
 
Cosmoline? Wouldn't have to worry about rust, or ever being clean again. Lol.
 
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