Rig tie down ?s

Mac5005

Mac5005

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Location
Rocky Mount
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Is this an acceptable way to secure a rig.

Hooked from rock ring on wheel to d ring on trailer.

Obviously it is not tight and all 4 are not on my jeep.

This is not how I currently tie down to tow, but would make it about twice as fast to tie down.

What does nc4x4 say.


My current setup I use 4 straps and 4 axle straps, one per corner from axle to frame.

I also usually put two more additional straps from the rear bumper to the rear corners of the trailer to keep the jeep from swaying and causing the trailer to sway.

I'm not trying to debate over axles vs suspension,

Just whether or not it is acceptable or good practice to hook to the wheel/Rock ring etc and then to the trailer.

Thanks everyone.
 
I don't like it. At least with the axle wrap and strap it goes fully around the tube. On top of that most have a safety of some type on the business end. I also get some triangulation under the rig. I see this unloading some at the pressures I like to run. More I just see bad images of a driverless rig running 70 mph side ways on an interstate.
 
Only way I would use the rim or tire to tie down would be those baskets that go over the whole tire hook on front of it then behind it. That way if it came loose it would still be somewhat contained but if something happens and it comes loose the way it is in the pic it would be too easy to come unhooked and be completely uncontained.
 
I'm guessing a tire strap won't fit through the holes in the wheels...? If it would, I'd go that route. I wouldn't hook to the rock ring.

If you want to roll the dice with Ballistic Fab, they sell a weld-on axle tab for strapping down. It's cut from 3/8" or 1/2" or something with like a 1.5" hole in the center.

While we're nit picking, you shouldn't be loading that D-ring off-axis like that, either.
 
Thanks for the replies.

It looked simple enough but I didn't like it.

I agree with the pulling on the d ring incorrectly. I'm not saying it's right, I'm just saying I've done it like that for years with no issue. Mainly because there's not a good place else to hook to on the back of the trailer. About to fix that right now.

Going to put a plate across the corner and a new d ring on said plate.

Here is an alternative as well. Straps runs up to factory tow hole in frame. Great for pulling down ward but not much angle to the rear. May use this with the aformentioned axle strap.

I'll never send ballistic another dime. I need to just draw it up and water jet it out of some 3/8....

Again thanks guys.

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Scott i need to put some tubs on my axles also i always just strap it over my third i thr way your dads is

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So take four straps to the axles for primary restraints, then take a second set of straps up to the body to help mitigate sway.

I'm not sure if it would be better in your case, but I have seen folks run a strap from the rub rail up to the rockers for that purpose, too.
 
I prefer chain to straps, but I run two chains from each axle to the trailer, then two straps for sway. It takes about 10-15 minutes tops to tie down, not busting my ass. The rear chains are cut exactly to length to get the rig centered front/rear. I pull on til the rear gets on top of dovetail, then either hop out and chain rear, or a wheeling buddy does it for me, them I pull forward til tight. Shut down the rig and lock it down (granny gear, brake on). Then I strap down the body over front and rear hitches, since the wheelbase changes a few inches as the truck gets lower. Then I ratchet binder the front.

I used to use all straps and it took forever. The rear chains and two straps are cut to length so there's no excess to deal with, the front chains are two feet too long but the slack rides on the trailer deck under the ratchets. I have enough extra straps I can tie down anything else or the rig if broke badly if need be.
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I use the large grade 70 j hooks on the axle side of the chains like a roll back driver would use. The trailer end has the locking clevis like a winch cable. If you don't care for the j hooks you could weld a tie down points like a ring to each axle point and use the locking clevis hook on each end or straps.


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I used to use chains, and 4 ratcheting binders and then two straps, but it took forever and I always got super dirty loading up.

Now I currently use 4 straps, one on each corner from axle to frame, and then another on the rear pulling rear down, to combat sway.

I have the leftover strap material zip tied to the strap so fronts are at set length and rears are set length.

I have 6x6 blocks screwed to the trailer deck that correctly set my tongue weight.

I'm still working on making loading up and unloading faster and easier so it's less of a hassle to go wheel.

I just did the 4 d rings in correct spot and correct axis on trailer.

Out of all this. I discovered I need a certain tab to weld to axle, that will allow me to use strap or chain.

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Plan to make that out of some 3/8 steel.

I will still have to use a strap to control sway in the rear, as a rear suck down, but that's ok, as with links, the rear wheelbase changes with ride height position and plays hell on both straps and chains.

My reason for going away from chains, as I needed about 12" of chain plus a binder. This was great unless I need to haul something different.

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If I need to change length, just use a screwdriver to lift the tab in the zip tie and adjust, then re tighten.

On my dads truck, we have tabs that hold small Clevis on the axles, then we welded d rings on the trailer so that he needs no chains, only binders.

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Needs triangulation.

Only read the first post.
 
I have a couple friends that have taken a dring mount just like you used on your trailer and welded it to the axle tubes. I've never been a fan of the looks of it but it's damn convienient and they've been strapping the same rigs like that for over 10yrs with zero issues.
 
I have Mac's axle straps but welded on some axle tabs. Makes it quick and easy. I used to put a chain on the rear without a binder and used the front to pull tension. I like that as, for me, adds peace of mind the buggy isn't coming in the cab of the truck, ever. But, I e picked up some Mac's straps and they seem very well made that add to my peace of mind.

Out of all the BS that Ballistic is to deal with, they have some nice pre made axle tabs that work well with my straps and chains.
 
GONOVRIT said:
I have a couple friends that have taken a dring mount just like you used on your trailer and welded it to the axle tubes. I've never been a fan of the looks of it but it's damn convienient and they've been strapping the same rigs like that for over 10yrs with zero issues.
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Do they make noise?
 
I've never noticed any on the trail, them both being healthy v8 rigs may be covering that though?
 
shawn said:
Do they make noise?
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not once they flash rust a tad and the clamp tube gets deformed.
They are a PITA to forcibly move, IME, they dont randomly flop around.
 
I have rings welded to my axles and after I got my shocks and springs dialed in the buggy does not budge on the trailer.
I have my straps marked and cut for front and rear and then keep longer straps on hand for hauling other stuff. It takes all of 2min for me to load up and be ready to go.
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BUCKEYE PERFORMANCE INC. said:
I have rings welded to my axles and after I got my shocks and springs dialed in the buggy does not budge on the trailer.
I have my straps marked and cut for front and rear and then keep longer straps on hand for hauling other stuff. It takes all of 2min for me to load up and be ready to go.View attachment 227097View attachment 227098View attachment 227099View attachment 227100

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I like the rear, only might question the rating of the rings. I do similar on the front, but run strap around the tube. A DMV guy having a bad day, would probably give us both grief, on Not having a True 4-point tie down, > 2 separate front points.
 
rodney eppes said:
I like the rear, only might question the rating of the rings. I do similar on the front, but run strap around the tube. A DMV guy having a bad day, would probably give us both grief, on Not having a True 4-point tie down, > 2 separate front points.
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I'd say the strap will break before the rings.
I had the same setup on my Old rig and I accidentally started the truck in low 4 and the t-18 in 1st gear and I had to throw the rear straps away after I managed to jump in the truck and get it shut off.

BUCKEYE PERFORMANCE INC.
828-779-2242
 
BUCKEYE PERFORMANCE INC. said:
I'd say the strap will break before the rings.
I had the same setup on my Old rig and I accidentally started the truck in low 4 and the t-18 in 1st gear and I had to throw the rear straps away after I managed to jump in the truck and get it shut off.

BUCKEYE PERFORMANCE INC.
828-779-2242
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Right but the concern is, if 1 strap breaks the other strap exacerbates the problem. If the right front strap breaks the left front strap will now pull the center of the vehicle to the left and potentially off the trailer.
 
Ron said:
Right but the concern is, if 1 strap breaks the other strap exacerbates the problem. If the right front strap breaks the left front strap will now pull the center of the vehicle to the left and potentially off the trailer.
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Ok so tell us your solution

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