Rig tie down ?s

Do they make noise?
I've seen some people use they daystar shackle isolator kit. Or garden hose/toilet gaskets that fit snug on the pin. That keeps them from rattling. On the trailer mounted style drings you could also wrap the ring with electrical tape to dampen the rattle.
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Why not just weld on a couple of heavy tabs like these? Quick and easy and it won't rattle. Use one on each side of the axle and eliminate putting two straps in one mount point and help to resolve the issue Ron just described.

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Rons concern was if a strap breaks it's gonna pull the opposite direction . The way to prevent that is to run the straps straight however thats not a proper way to strap a vehicle. Those large tabs are nice but to me they would end up being bent over by a rock. I just stick to stuff rated for the load and replace straps when worn.

BUCKEYE PERFORMANCE INC.
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Weld on some thread bungs and use a couple of safety hoist rings. Problem solved. Pockets emptied.

McMaster-Carr

3/4"-10 are rated to lift 5000lbs and are $70 each. Zinc plated is about twice as expensive.
 
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The way to prevent that is to run the straps straight however thats not a proper way to strap a vehicle.

The proper way to strap one down is to have the tie downs radiate out from center of mass. That's why you try to only X straps as a method of last resort.
 
I do four corner axle wrapped straight pulls "rings integrated into Jegs 5k straps" to floor mounted d rings. Why is an "X" better?

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5 straps. 1 on each corner of the vehicle using axle straps and ratchet straps. I run the 5th strap from the trailer, over one slider, under the belly skid, over the other slider to the trailer. This cuts down my sway. I can suck it down as much as I want.
 
Would these be sufficient?
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Looks like a 1"-8 shackle and a 1-1/4"-7 safety hoist ring? The safety hoist ring should be rated for about 15,000lbs, so you could pick the jeep, trailer, and truck up with it. If that's all you wanna do, then it should meet your needs :D
 
4 axle straps, 4-6' chains, 4 ratchet binders, less than 10 minutes, secured for ever, or until your tires leak down....wear gloves and wash your trailer every once in a while, keep your buggy/jeep leak free you won't get dirty

If your rig's body sway affects your trailer tracking, you need a heavier trailer...

Matt
 
4 axle straps, 4-6' chains, 4 ratchet binders, less than 10 minutes, secured for ever, or until your tires leak down....wear gloves and wash your trailer every once in a while, keep your buggy/jeep leak free you won't get dirty

If your rig's body sway affects your trailer tracking, you need a heavier trailer...

Matt

Agreed, however I have the lightest trailer that will carry my rig. When towing with a gasser it is important that I don't have any unnecessary weight.

The jeep secured by axle only allows the frame, body, engine etc to sway around. No sway bar plus link suspension in the back, high cog on trailer all equal a wild ride.

Plus even with chains and ratchet binders, the wheelbase changes of the rear links was hell while towing.

Again No matter what, the frame has to be somewhat secured/tied down to ensure tie-ing down the axles is secure.

I kept the ratcheting binders greased which that and the chains themselves is what led to always being dirty.

I trust the chains and binders over straps as a pinch point will not cut a chain. But the straps are more convenient and weigh much less.

I wouldn't feel comfortable using chains hooked to a nylon axle strap though.

I'm definitely not going to spend that much for the machine lifting rings.

If I were, I'd go buy a Cummins with the brodozer tax, a gooseneck, and be in debt for the next 10 years. But that's not me.


Returning to the original question, just for pot stirring sake.



How is hooking to a hole in the rock ring more dangerous or less effective than hooking to a tab welded to the axle ?
 
How is hooking to a hole in the rock ring more dangerous or less effective than hooking to a tab welded to the axle ?

From the pictures, it just looked like if one popped loose, that a tire could slide over and drop off the trailer deck. Shit, maybe it could happen the way I run my straps today. I have a nice set of straps from MAC's and have not had any trouble from them in over 12 years. This is what I use with one strap over each axle tube/ corner of the rig. D-rings on all four corners of the trailer. It is a 16' Kaufman steel deck trailer.

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I don't trust the rock ring as a tie down because I've seen them bend and fold after hitting rocks, the rim itself is probably much weaker than a 1/4 or 3/8 ring or plate welded directly to the thick axle tube. That's just my opinion though, I'm a mechanic, not an engineer, LOL.

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How is hooking to a hole in the rock ring more dangerous or less effective than hooking to a tab welded to the axle ?
Its not. I personally like the idea. There's a lot more weld to break, and its in a better shear plane. Also, its the widest possible point, which should give you the best control over the load.
 
From the pictures, it just looked like if one popped loose, that a tire could slide over and drop off the trailer deck. Shit, maybe it could happen the way I run my straps today. I have a nice set of straps from MAC's and have not had any trouble from them in over 12 years. This is what I use with one strap over each axle tube/ corner of the rig. D-rings on all four corners of the trailer. It is a 16' Kaufman steel deck trailer.

View attachment 227139


That is the setup I have and have used the axle straps. But for convenience, I've added the 3/8" thick tabs on the axle to clip to as wide as I could and not run the tire with the straps. Seems like a win/win/win with convenience, quality, and methodology
 
How is hooking to a hole in the rock ring more dangerous or less effective than hooking to a tab welded to the axle ?

It seems that the rock ring could be easier bent out than a tab welded onto the tube, probably would take an extreme case for it to happen but still seems easier to bend the rock ring. For what it's worth I wrap around the tube front and back with axle straps, just what I trust more.
 
If I were, I'd go buy a Cummins with the brodozer tax, a gooseneck, and be in debt for the next 10 years

Since I just bought another cummins and an enclosed I feel your talking to me, haha, but I didn't pay brodozer tax whatever that means, and I'll only be in debt for 2 years so there's ways to do it without being in debt long. Used trucks and trailers are the way to go.
 
Since I just bought another cummins and an enclosed I feel your talking to me, haha, but I didn't pay brodozer tax whatever that means, and I'll only be in debt for 2 years so there's ways to do it without being in debt long. Used trucks and trailers are the way to go.

I wasn't talking to you,

Just pointing out a bigger heavier trailer would necessitate a better tow rig, which snowballs into $$$$$

I'd honestly rather have a medium duty box truck hauler/rv
 
If anyone is wanting a high quality set of straps I get my straps from www.thestrapman.com his "truck line", found him at the Charlotte auto fair and his stuff is done right. I've been using his stuff for almost 8 years now and nobody else including Macs have as high a quality as this guy. The website kinda sucks but call him with what your wanting and he can set you up.
 
If anyone is wanting a high quality set of straps I get my straps from www.thestrapman.com his "truck line", found him at the Charlotte auto fair and his stuff is done right. I've been using his stuff for almost 8 years now and nobody else including Macs have as high a quality as this guy. The website kinda sucks but call him with what your wanting and he can set you up.

You can call and get any combo ends ands hooks also. I've talked to him at Charlotte about doing custom combos for you.
 
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