S-10 Sas

mudonthetires10

Member
Joined
May 19, 2005
Location
Randolph County
Well, I'm about to start my sas on the truck. The D44hP and 9" are slowly coming along in the basement, just trying to work on a budget can get tough. I am pretty set on going with leaves, but I have some buddies trying to get me to keep the radius arms, wrist them, and throw on coils. Not sure how hard that would be, mainly in respect to the monatary funds. I have a 5" TM susp. lift, 33" MTs, AuburnGear lim. slip, and all front and rear diff./axle parts for sale if anyone is interested. I had/have the chance to go with a D60 but am fairly sure I am going to stick with the 9" for several reasons/benefits. Let me know what you think about it and leave some suggestions and comments.
 
Ive seen the radius arm SAS on several short wheelbase ford trucks and broncos and they flex fairly well. But out of the trucks Ive seen I have been more impressed with the leaf springs. Also getting the steering setup properly is going to be much harder with the radius arm suspension. I guess it depends on what type of wheeling your goinging to be doing with it. If you want to do a lot of high speed type dirt roads and do really well on the beach the radius arms and coils is the way to go, but for trails, rocks, and mud Id suggest the leaf springs. I was going to swap in a 44 and leaves on my 94 ford but came accros a 78 f250 to work on instead.
 
Ive seen the radius arm SAS on several short wheelbase ford trucks and broncos and they flex fairly well. But out of the trucks Ive seen I have been more impressed with the leaf springs. Also getting the steering setup properly is going to be much harder with the radius arm suspension. I guess it depends on what type of wheeling your goinging to be doing with it. If you want to do a lot of high speed type dirt roads and do really well on the beach the radius arms and coils is the way to go, but for trails, rocks, and mud Id suggest the leaf springs. I was going to swap in a 44 and leaves on my 94 ford but came accros a 78 f250 to work on instead.
 
I run a wristed radius arm in my EB. Its a very easy and cheap way to make it flex. But since you are starting from scratch you could extend the radius arms 10-12" and get similar results and not have to worry about pinning the arm for the road. Also an EB front measures 37.5" from the center of the wedges. I'm not sure how much wider the full size is, but I bet the narrow EB is closer to your frame width. If you have to relocate the wedges it would probably be easier to swap to leaves in the front.
 
This thread is old as can be, but I'm finally getting the SAS done. It will be a three-link type setup up front. I'll try to get a complete parts list here before long.

The rear axle is on, and rough measurement so far is the doorhandle is in the 57-58" range and the tailgate closed is in the 65" range.
 
That sounds good. I'd set it as much as you can with out killing the pinion angle. The early Bronco 44 only has a couple of degrees castor built in them. You lift the front 3" with out radius bushings or another corrective measure and your at 0-neg castor. Makes things squirrelly on the road. But the were designed for manual steering. The HP44 should be designed for power steering with more castor.
 
I was just going to post one since half of them are blurry, but I'll post them all anyway. Screw it.

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37.1250.15 Irok Radials
Look small on the truck in that picture to me
We will probably round off the rear fender and see what we have to do from there. Trying to keep as much of the body as I can, for personal, emotional reasons. Ok, that sounds gay. sorry.
 
I'll try to get some more pictures here before long, but it probably wont be til next weekend when I get to hopefully bring it back to school with me.
 
These pictures are not flexed out completely. We just didn't have a whole lot of room to work with between the lift. I'll get better flexed out pics once it gets driven and the coils break in a little better.

Should have the truck a few days after Christmas hopefully, or atleast that's what we're shooting for.
Hopefully I'll make a little run around New Year's time to some little place and get some better pictures.

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A chevy built ford tough? Looks good!
 
Oh don't give me that Ford garbage :fuck-you:
Thanks man, I preciate it.

And just in case I haven't mentioned, this is to be my DD and rig, so not trying to go crazy and beat it to shit (I love it to much) but it will see many new mods in the future, and will definitely see trail action...I hope.
So you have to understand that I want it to ride and do well on the street as well as wheel.
Something I can beat up some trails in and then still limp it back home on its own legs.
 
So, uh, you gonna change your sig?
 
Hmm.

Nah, doesn't really bother me.
My mods list isn't cool enough to have everyone see in my sig. Not a big deal, unless its an unspoken rule that I need to? lol
 
HOLY JESUS look at that draglink and trackbar angle.. I bet it has helacious bumpsteer.. I saw you driving down 158 the other day and it does look good...
 
I can actually let the wheel go on a straight road and bumps won't really move it. It seems great as of right now, but working out kinks is all part of the process.

Also, one of the reasons that the links look so steep is because they are bent at the top in order to allow a flatter angle to the pitman arm/DLE connection. If the links were straight, it would be easier to max out the DLE upon flex.
 
i like it. what did you do with the c wedges that you cut off the 44 ? you can sell those for about $40.00 to $50.00 a pair.
 
I have them...trying to sell them but havent caught any interest yet. :confused:
If you know if anyone interested let me know. I'd love to not have these sitting around in a greasy cardboard box.
 
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