Secondhand Tin Can.

Bblack26 said:
How did the take offs fit before / after the fenders were cut?
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They rubbed on turning on even slightly uneven ground and at full lock. Now they at fine but I do need to bump stop. The picture is of take offs on top and stock below, only picture I had on my phone.
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Havent really done anything besides replacing my alternator and starter because they went out.

I have gotten a new to me set of rock sliders that I need to fix one thing on then I can weld them on.

Plan for over the summer is to get the rock sliders on along with mid frame stiffeners, new brakes all around, and find a transfer case and transmission skid plate. At some point find a hp 30 or another front axel so I can get rid of this low pinion 30.

Any advice on what type of skids to go with I know theres alot of styles out there?

And here's a pic or two to make this post something
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If I were you when you do the mid frame stiffeners I would work out a rough idea of the skids you want and out some captive nuts on them so you have some mounting options under the Jeep. Just a thought.
 
End up having to replace my muffler because it went out so i went with a magnaflow glass pack. The old muffler had a few cracks and holes in it.
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Keith Odom said:
End up having to replace my muffler because it went out so i went with a magnaflow glass pack. The old muffler had a few cracks and holes in it.
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Eh...that'll buff out! :lol:
 
So after a lot of consideration I've decided to purchase a dana 30 hp to replace my lp. I've also decided to go ahead and truss and gusset it along with installing a spartan locker. Chromos will come later
Shout out to Chris for letting this take place in his shop.
 
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Jeep got a new battery and should be getting the hp installed in a few weeks. Pictures to come.

And discovered this so it's getting fixed
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Its amazing the difference a new battery and terminals can make.
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Its been a long few days but my jeep is almost put back together. Thanks chris and Adam for doing the welding and gears.
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Big shout out to @Jason W. and @josh$$ for letting me use "Broken Skull garage, getting it done in all the wrong ways" and for all of the help and guidance in installing my track bar and everything. I once again forgot to take pictures during the process but i will get some of the finish product later in the day. The new track bar, bracket, and brace made a world of difference in the way it handles on the road. Who would have thought. IronMan4x4 track bar system is beefy as hell!!!
 
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Here are some pictures of it installed. Ignore the wet spot its power steering fluid from when I over filled the reservoir.
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It's been awhile
Change the idle air control sensor/valve because it was acting up and picked up some new to me long arms, tires, shackle relocation brackets, transfer case and drive shafts. Big things are in the works.

IAC was just a tad dirty lol
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Finally got this transfer case almost complete. Just have to install the front yoke and another stud.
The repaired case I took parts from cracked on me when I was trying to get the front yoke off. But I didnt damage any of the internals. This was the first time I have done anything along these lines . I just hope I didnt correctly.
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231’s are pretty simple. You can check function by hand shifting the case and spinning the yokes. About the trickiest thing is making sure the pump and pickup tube stay together when you put the case together.
 
I cycled the case 2 or 3 times by hand and everything seems right. Got all of the studs in place. I just hope I didnt screw anything up and it gernades going down the road.
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Well decide it was time to replace my rear brakes so I ordered a full rebuild kit from rock auto. I was expecting 2hrs tops while the 2hrs turned into 8hrs because of the hard lines twisting and bolts on the wheel cylinder being rounded. Went to bleed the front and rounded off the front caliper bleeder valve. I put new pads on the front 8 months ago so they were still good.

Now the jeep stops great and no leaks yet. I also learn a ton and got some new wrenches, ratchet and flare kit.
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Those SA cables look a touch too long. I've had to dig through 4-5 packs to find ones the correct length before.. The adjuster should sit just about at the vertical center line of the adjuster star wheel. Did you push on the cable and verify SA operation?
 
Hopefully this heat shield kit will help to fight against heat soak. But I'm gonna take a short cut instead of pulling injectors just to feed through the holes I'm just gonna cut a slot at each hole to slide it around then wrap it around. So the cut will only be 0.5 inches long from the closest velcro side. So I wont be leaving any gaps. Hopefully it works. All of these "small" things are affecting my savings to buy 4.88 gears.

If the heat shield doesn't work it's going to be time for hood vents.
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skyhighZJ said:
Just do some washer spacers at the back of the hood. Saves on your gear monies and works really well!
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I've thought about it. But I'm not sure how it looks.

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Honestly if you don’t get carried away just think of the back of the hood being about 1/2”-3/4” higher that it is right now. For the most part it’s not even noticeable.
 
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