Secondhand Tin Can.

skyhighZJ said:
Honestly if you don’t get carried away just think of the back of the hood being about 1/2”-3/4” higher that it is right now. For the most part it’s not even noticeable.
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Yeah I was thinking a half inch. Just enough to get past the lip in the back. I actually might have the hardware to do it. I helped a guy at college do his and I bought hardware to do mine but I wasnt having the problems up in the cooler climate.
 
Hell I went 1" using nuts for spacers and you could hardly tell. Of course I think you'd be better at 1.75"-2" range. It did let heat out, but a side effect was that if you rolled a window down going down the road, the heat rolled in the window, so I hope your AC works. @336wheeler has pics.
 
a_kelley said:
Hell I went 1" using nuts for spacers and you could hardly tell. Of course I think you'd be better at 1.75"-2" range. It did let heat out, but a side effect was that if you rolled a window down going down the road, the heat rolled in the window, so I hope your AC works. @336wheeler has pics.
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I have ac but it's more or less cool and not noticable in the summer.

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When I did mine I took out all the rubber trim along the back of the hood as it was worthless at that point anyway. You could do an inch to see how it looks and also if it’s any noticeable difference. Get bolts long enough to go bigger and then it’s just a matter of putting a few more washers in there. Too easy.
 
I left the rubber weatherstrip in case I decided to remove it. You could also convert to a return style fuel system and over feed the fuel rail as well as add a timer to continue to run the pump after key off to cool the rail. If your Jeep has the converters below the intake, the best solution is to relocate the converters, and/or run non ethanol fuel - that will make a huge difference, as the boiling points are far different. (Not to forget ethanol fuel wasn't much of a thing in early 2000s)
 
a_kelley said:
I left the rubber weatherstrip in case I decided to remove it. You could also convert to a return style fuel system and over feed the fuel rail as well as add a timer to continue to run the pump after key off to cool the rail. If your Jeep has the converters below the intake, the best solution is to relocate the converters, and/or run non ethanol fuel - that will make a huge difference, as the boiling points are far different.
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I think first I would put the fan on a switch.

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I was thinking the heat shield mixed with raising the hood plus running the fan for a few minutes would help push the heat out.

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It will help, though I never did truly rid my old Jeep of heat soak... I just ended up leaving it running instead of shutting it down though over feeding (mine was return style) the rail helped greatly, as well as making sure the exhaust exited after the tank instead of dumping heat on it.
 
Ah so your fuel rail had to lines a feed and return?

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a_kelley said:
correct. Also my cat was under the floor, not under the manifold.
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Yup I got two under the hood then one under the jeep. Old engine didnt have this problem. But this one does get heat soak. I leave the jeep running when wheeling because of it.

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So what is different between old motor and new motor? What changed other than the motor? Did you use the cats that you had on the old one? Intake, injectors? Something changed to make it that way, just figure out what that thing is.
 
a_kelley said:
So what is different between old motor and new motor? What changed other than the motor? Did you use the cats that you had on the old one? Intake, injectors? Something changed to make it that way, just figure out what that thing is.
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Nothing changed just the motor. Its brand new less than 30,000.

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Got the heat shield on about to start on the hood risers. I totally forogt my fuel rail has some round thing on it. My ideas of cutting slits workd great but the ends were loose. So I used zipties to help hold the shield on the ends and around the round thing that I don't know what it is. Also I found I thread bolt hole on my intake that isnt being used.
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Might take the factory spacer off and lower it about 3/16th of an inch. Hopefully this will help to release the heat after I cut it off. I used all grade five hardware with 1 inch sleeve. I'm not sure what I think about how it looks.
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Yeah tomorrow when I do a little running around town will be the true test. I just hope the zipties on the fuel rail wont melt. I dont think they will sense the wiring doesnt. But for some reason I'm worried about them.

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Just got done finally replacing my negative battery cable to solve grounding issues ive been having for awhile. I've just been trimming more and more off of the corroded cable to make it work. It cranks so much stronger now with the new cable.

Just realised how much I've been working on this thing. Next weekend I'm gonna replace diff fluid front and rear then it outta be ready for Potts mountain.

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Ive done alot to this jeep in the past month to help maintain it as dd. Just finished changing the gear oil in both diffs. Its weird to think about how little I knew when I first installed the solid diff covers when it sat stock. Just want to saw thank you again to everyone on here for all of the advice over the past 3 years. And thank you to @jason W @josh$$ @Chris_Keziah @adamk for all of the help.

Hopefully this time next year it will be on 34s, long arms and locked in the rear with 4.88s about to get a cage.

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Keith1138 said:
Might take the factory spacer off and lower it about 3/16th of an inch. Hopefully this will help to release the heat after I cut it off. I used all grade five hardware with 1 inch sleeve. I'm not sure what I think about how it looks.
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That's what I had to do to my XJ. It was a 2000. The '00 and '01 were a terrible design. I did all the internet remedies except the fan. I started with the easy stuff...new injectors, heat shield, heat tape, then the hood spacer. The hood spacer was the ticket so I quit there.

A few things I found:

Apparently the "new" ethanol fuel has a lower volatility than the good ole unleaded used when this manifold design was implemented. If I used 100% gas, the heat soak never caused the fuel in the rail to volatilize. I also wanted to confirm the under hood temps so I put a HOBO under the hood with a thermocouple wrapped around the fuel rail. On a hot July or August day, the under hood temp would stabilize at ~140F when driving highway speed and engine temp was around 190 where it was supposed to be. When I'd park it, the temp increased to ~230+F (I might be wrong on that number, but it was pretty dayum hot) over the course of about 10 min. and gradually cool down. Not a problem for 100% gas, but enough to cause problems with the E90 for my jeep. I don't think I did the test again after lifting the spacer but I wish I would have. It 99% fixed the problem so I moved on to other things. It wasn't a big deal anyway, just annoying as hell.
 
cufor98 said:
That's what I had to do to my XJ. It was a 2000. The '00 and '01 were a terrible design. I did all the internet remedies except the fan. I started with the easy stuff...new injectors, heat shield, heat tape, then the hood spacer. The hood spacer was the ticket so I quit there.

A few things I found:

Apparently the "new" ethanol fuel has a lower volatility than the good ole unleaded used when this manifold design was implemented. If I used 100% gas, the heat soak never caused the fuel in the rail to volatilize. I also wanted to confirm the under hood temps so I put a HOBO under the hood with a thermocouple wrapped around the fuel rail. On a hot July or August day, the under hood temp would stabilize at ~140F when driving highway speed and engine temp was around 190 where it was supposed to be. When I'd park it, the temp increased to ~230+F (I might be wrong on that number, but it was pretty dayum hot) over the course of about 10 min. and gradually cool down. Not a problem for 100% gas, but enough to cause problems with the E90 for my jeep. I don't think I did the test again after lifting the spacer but I wish I would have. It 99% fixed the problem so I moved on to other things. It wasn't a big deal anyway, just annoying as hell.
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My problem wasnt running hot while moving or sitting still but the problem was once I cut it off the heat just sitting in my engine bay. But this has solved that issue. I stopped at 3 different stores yesterday afternoon and didnt experience heat soak or hard starting once.

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Keith1138 said:
My problem wasnt running hot while moving or sitting still but the problem was once I cut it off the heat just sitting in my engine bay. But this has solved that issue. I stopped at 3 different stores yesterday afternoon and didnt experience heat soak or hard starting once.

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Right on. Same here. Engine was always fine at 190ish. I'm referring to the under hood temp right at the fuel rail not the engine temp. It was classic heat sink that affects the '00-'01 years. Glad you got it handled! It looks good.
 
cufor98 said:
Right on. Same here. Engine was always fine at 190ish. I'm referring to the under hood temp right at the fuel rail not the engine temp. It was classic heat sink that affects the '00-'01 years. Glad you got it handled! It looks good.
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Yeah come winter time I'll probably take the spacers out to help keep it warm enough and so I'll have heat. I dont understand the design because theres no where for the heat to go as it is cooling down. I'm so happy to finally have the heat sink problem fixed.

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