Someday CYJ

StretchASU

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2006
Location
Creedmoor, NC/Claudville, VA
We all hear those stories of "yeah I'm gonna finish it someday" well here is one slowly getting finished. At least at this point all of the big parts are together and its going to start getting glued together in the next couple of months. No groundbreaking tech here, just another platform for people to heckle me on so I actually finish this someday project.

Back story cliff notes:
Summer of '17 my father in law to be calls and asks if I want a CJ7 project the neighbor is giving him. An abandoned restoration project he thought he would get around to someday. I just say yeah of course rather than ask what I'm in for. It ends up being a 79 CJ7 in boxes and pieces. Bought originally from another old farmer who used to haul fertilizer and farm stuff around in it, the tub had rotted out and the frame was ok but thinning in the back around some mounts. Not much was really useable, and not one to look a gift horse in the mouth, I put it on the back burner until I have the time to really put it together and minimize my hack rather than just booger it together. My father in law has always wanted an old CJ to bomb around the farm in, but wont ever do anything for himself. Enter the future son in law and the Someday CYJ.

Fast forward 2 years:
Wedding, life, work all get in the way and I finally am getting around to putting this thing together. Like my father in law, who is "frugal" , the idea is to get it going using what we have laying around. Luckily hes an old farmer with all kinds of old stuff laying around we can trade, sell, swap, scrap or whatever to get what we need.

The biggest hurdle I had was finding a tub/frame that was workable. Rot free CJ7 tubs are rare and/or pricey and being a beat around old farm jeep, there was no reason to spend a pile of money on a fiberglass tub.

Thanks to@YJKrawlin who was parting out his rig, I was able to scoop up a donor. Gotta say thanks for a pretty darn complete tub/frame that came with a ton of cool little goodies that work out well for what the project entails. There were more upsides to working off the YJ platform and just dropping the CJ drivetrain and clip onto it than negatives.

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Going to be slow going as I'm building it in the old farm shop at my inlaws 2 hours away and I travel a ton for work.

What we are working with:
88 YJ Tub/Frame
Ported Astro Box
Hydro Clutch setup
CJ front clip
Dually Chevy 60/70HD
304 with all the Edlebrock goodies.
T18/D20
A full set of YJ Springs, a set of XJ rears.

Looking to end up around 105" WB on 37" stock H1's .
 
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I'm trying to sort my build as well. The steering and spring configuration has me waffling around.
Looking forward to how you use the box and which direction you orient the springs. Over or under?
 
I'm trying to sort my build as well. The steering and spring configuration has me waffling around.
Looking forward to how you use the box and which direction you orient the springs. Over or under?

I'm in the same boat, trying to make sense of it all through broken old links on Pirate and what few photos werent uploaded with photobucket. I'm used to cobbling together shit missle toyotas so this is a little different setup than I'm used to but the same principles. The PO of the chassis ran the front hangers/shackles off the front crossmember and relocated the frame side mounts forward of stock to stretch it a few inches which is why the Astro box is on there. I'm considering doing the same with the springs in an SOA configuration using the stock YJ rear springs up front and the XJ's in the back and adding an extra main leaf to them with a traction bar. Mount the shackle end as high up as possible and maybe french the fixed side in if needed. Do the same out back. Part of the reason for trying to keep the Astro box is we have at least 2, maybe 3 old astros laying around the farm I can rob for spare steering boxes in the future if this ever needs a rebuild.
 
Lemme know when the axles need love. I don't forget OG wheeling buddies.

I ain't kidding. :beer:

Thoroughly appreciate it man! I managed to secure a set that’s already geared and locked but I might grow tired of that welded rear and need a fix. Good excuse to come out and ride with the Strava king himself.
 
I'm in the same boat, trying to make sense of it all through broken old links on Pirate and what few photos werent uploaded with photobucket. I'm used to cobbling together shit missle toyotas so this is a little different setup than I'm used to but the same principles. The PO of the chassis ran the front hangers/shackles off the front crossmember and relocated the frame side mounts forward of stock to stretch it a few inches which is why the Astro box is on there. I'm considering doing the same with the springs in an SOA configuration using the stock YJ rear springs up front and the XJ's in the back and adding an extra main leaf to them with a traction bar. Mount the shackle end as high up as possible and maybe french the fixed side in if needed. Do the same out back. Part of the reason for trying to keep the Astro box is we have at least 2, maybe 3 old astros laying around the farm I can rob for spare steering boxes in the future if this ever needs a rebuild.
I am contemplating Rancho Waggy leafs in a nearly identical set up, they will be heavily sprung for the initial weight but I plan to build a pick up out of it. I also want it to be capable of hauling a fair amount of gear for dirt road exploring and camping.....think old school triathlon days. Canoe, spares, and all the weekend gear. Not a crawler build, more a Warrior Welding Weekend Tool. I too have a Astro box and will be deleting the full hydro off the donor axles. Street manners are a high priority in my build plans. SPO set up with no traction bars, 100 ish wheel base, 302, dana 300, over built chromo 44 with reid knuckles, high steer, nine rear, detroits, and 5.38 gearing. No one ton bulk and limited to 38 inch swampers.
 
I am contemplating Rancho Waggy leafs in a nearly identical set up, they will be heavily sprung for the initial weight but I plan to build a pick up out of it. I also want it to be capable of hauling a fair amount of gear for dirt road exploring and camping.....think old school triathlon days. Canoe, spares, and all the weekend gear. Not a crawler build, more a Warrior Welding Weekend Tool. I too have a Astro box and will be deleting the full hydro off the donor axles. Street manners are a high priority in my build plans. SPO set up with no traction bars, 100 ish wheel base, 302, dana 300, over built chromo 44 with reid knuckles, high steer, nine rear, detroits, and 5.38 gearing. No one ton bulk and limited to 38 inch swampers.

I like the plan for the waggy leafs to handle the weight. They seem to work well in a lot of applications. Seems like we've got similar goals being street worthy and utilitarian. Most of my uses will be hauling a few bags of feed, tools etc things we don't really need to drive the 450/550's around for. Also the occasional run into town at the end of the day for fun.

Always liked Tubehead's YJ

Project: Back to Basics - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

I'm still eyeing a similar setup to his in order to avoid the traction bar out back. The XJ springs I have just happened to come with the full set of YJ springs. Gives me enough to build some bastard packs out of for the front if I dont use them. Keeping it SUA out back eliminates a lot of the wrap issues. And for what I would spend in joints, tube and brackets to build a traction bar, I can pretty much buy a pair of 4" SUA rear springs. Also keeps it from being a skyscraper. Wheelbase can just be determined by where I hang the mounts.
 
I meant to say SUA...3rd shift 1 in the morning brain fart...
And definitely no sky scrapper....everything else might as well be 1985 all over again.
 
I hope it treats you well! It's hard letting stuff go but I'm excited to see what you do with it! I ran waggy springs at all 4 corners on my build and wasnt all that impressed with how they flexed, although they did support the weight of the engine very well and I didn't have any lasting wrap bending them (although they obviously wrapped enough in the rear to break an output shaft.) Definitely looking forward to following your build man! If you have any questions about any of the stuff left on the chassis just let me know. I know the writing has all been hacked apart to a degree so if you have any questions on that I can at least point you in the right direction since I was the one who wired it all up.
 
Nothing exciting but a long time coming to get it to this point. Still have a lot of organizing and cleaning to do in the shop, but managed to get the chassis and axles in today. Going to get things straightened up enough to move my tools in next time I come back and get the axles cleaned up over Thanksgiving. Going to SEMA and Fabtech so I’m sure I’ll have all kinds of ideas to not make this a simple leaf sprung Jeep when I come back :lol:

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Managed to get an hour or two a night in the shop over thanksgiving and tried to chip away at one project a night.

Started off by pressing the old bushings and rusted bolts out of the YJ front springs and replacing with fresh urethane ones so I can start mocking up everything in the front end. Soaked the old bushings in PB Blaster while I did stuff around the farm all day. Came back at night and lit them all on fire with the propane torch to soften them up then pressed them out. Only had to take the air hammer to one sleeve. The others pushed right out on a 50 ton press.
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Started cleaning all the brackets off the 60 front. It has some pretty beefy stuff left on it from a previous link setup. I despise this part of every project, but the chingling cutting machine plasma off amazon is speeding things up. I still have probably half a day of cutting and grinding left to get the blank canvas.
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Since I forgot my extra plasma consumables at home, I moved on to some front end mock up this morning instead of hunting before getting to work moving cattle in the pouring rain. Got the front shackle hangers burned together and tacked into place along with some D ring mounts. Be easy on the poor stack of dimes, it was the first pass with a brand new machine. For anyone needing a new welder, keep an eye on www.hobartweldshop.com for factory refurb units that looks and work brand new with their full factory warranty. Biggest reason for going with the 190 and a Hobart in particular is the availability of consumables 10 min up the road at TSC if needed.
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Now that work is slowing down for the year, hopefully updates on this will pick up. The rear stretch kit from MotoBilt along with a few more of their parts should be here this week.
 
I despise this part of every project, but the chingling cutting machine plasma off amazon is speeding things up
If you don't mind me asking what plasma did you buy? Something with easy to get consumables?I need a inexpensive one since I ran over my old one with my trailer. It was a mac and it sucked.
 
If you don't mind me asking what plasma did you buy? Something with easy to get consumables?I need a inexpensive one since I ran over my old one with my trailer. It was a mac and it sucked.

Zeny Cut 50. Consumables are easy to get as well online. The machine will run on 110 or 220 and so far running on 110 it cuts 1/4” pretty well. Another member on here turned me onto it and is running his on 220. I’ll be switching mine over as soon as I get a chance to put another 220 plug in the shop since our compressor uses the only one I have right now. For the price, it was worth a shot to not have to fill our oxy/ace tanks. Pleased so far now that I’m getting the voltage and air pressure settings dialed in.

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Zeny Cut 50. Consumables are easy to get as well online. The machine will run on 110 or 220 and so far running on 110 it cuts 1/4” pretty well. Another member on here turned me onto it and is running his on 220. I’ll be switching mine over as soon as I get a chance to put another 220 plug in the shop since our compressor uses the only one I have right now. For the price, it was worth a shot to not have to fill our oxy/ace tanks. Pleased so far now that I’m getting the voltage and air pressure settings dialed in.

View attachment 307386
I got pretty much the same unit, cut 50. Amazon has them, consumables, and new leads for when you melt it with a cut piece. I run mine on 220, and air wide open. No issues so far. It'll cut 3/8 on 220 pretty easily just have to move according to how it's cutting.
 
MotoBilt’s comp corners and rockers are on. Just need to bring the Rivnut tool back with me next time since 4 holes on each comp corner require it. The rockers just secure through two body mounts and then drilling thru the rocker just below the door. I initially put them on the wrong sides and drilled the holes because I’m a dumbass and fawk some directions.
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Next up, I cut the rear crossmember out for the stretch kit. You don’t have to do this with the Motobilt kit, but this one was rough so I’ll go back with a 2x4 .120 wall crossmember before welding the spring hanger/ rear bumper on.
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Finished cleaning up the front axle tonight then chopped the truss off the rear before calling it quits tonight.
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Really I’m just finding stuff to do while I overthink the frame side spring hanger locations and whether or not to French them in.
 
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Managed to get an hour or so in the shop this weekend in between rain and other projects. Got the 2x4 rear crossmember cut and burned in, then the MotoBilt stretch Kit tacked into place. Not much progress but chipping away an hour at a time.

No pictures, but the 37’s and H1’s are on the front axle and rolled underneath. Just need to set the drivers side perch and burn it in.
 
I suck at taking photos when working but the front end is all burned in and frenched.
Front spring perch is heavy tacked and ready to set the front end down on the axle. Rear bumper/spring hanger is finish welded as well with the frame marked to be cut next time I’m in.

Ignore the giant bend in the allthread. It was just slid through there to hold the springs in place at this point. Some washers and nuts on each side made a nice jig to get the spring hangers square and evenly spaced.
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Zeny Cut 50. Consumables are easy to get as well online. The machine will run on 110 or 220 and so far running on 110 it cuts 1/4” pretty well. Another member on here turned me onto it and is running his on 220. I’ll be switching mine over as soon as I get a chance to put another 220 plug in the shop since our compressor uses the only one I have right now. For the price, it was worth a shot to not have to fill our oxy/ace tanks. Pleased so far now that I’m getting the voltage and air pressure settings dialed in.

View attachment 307386
What cart is that? I'm need one like it, so my cutter doesn't have to live on the shop floor.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
Can’t wait to wheel with ya dewd
 
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