Spare Change

Drove up to Burlington and met @k5-1402 and gave him some doll hairs! This, is, cool!
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And, I hope I don’t get put in timeout, I keep showing pictures of my cock on the forum. Hahahaha.
 
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Houston, we have a problem. Got home and needed to see newly mounted Irok/raceline on the truck. Ugga-Dugga the old one off. Slide the new setup on the hub and….. the studs are WAY too short. So,
A.) new wheel studs? (Which men’s tearing the whole hub apart (sad face))
B.) buy wheel spacers ( I need em anyway cause even the old tires get into the springs at full turning lock) and hope those studs are long enough to allow the RL rims to work. Guess I hadn’t paid attention but the centers where the stud/lug nuts are of the RL are SUPER thick/beef.
Suggestions?
 
skyhighZJ said:
Houston, we have a problem. Got home and needed to see newly mounted Irok/raceline on the truck. Ugga-Dugga the old one off. Slide the new setup on the hub and….. the studs are WAY too short. So,
A.) new wheel studs? (Which men’s tearing the whole hub apart (sad face))
B.) buy wheel spacers ( I need em anyway cause even the old tires get into the springs at full turning lock) and hope those studs are long enough to allow the RL rims to work. Guess I hadn’t paid attention but the centers where the stud/lug nuts are of the RL are SUPER thick/beef.
Suggestions?
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They use a smaller acorn nut. The kind that use a adapter. I bought mine at Oreilly auto last week. 41$ for a 20 pack with the adapter. M12x1.50
 
Brownsxj said:
They use a smaller acorn nut. The kind that use a adapter. I bought mine at Oreilly auto last week. 41$ for a 20 pack with the adapter. M12x1.50
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I’ll have to check into that. When I put the rim onto the truck the studs barely even come out to the end of the lug holes on the rim.
 
skyhighZJ said:
I’ll have to check into that. When I put the rim onto the truck the studs barely even come out to the end of the lug holes on the rim.
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Hmmm. Are you running solid axle outters or Ifs outters? Not sure if the the stud length would change or not with either. I have always run with Ifs outters for the extra width.
 
Well it’s green. Had the bed off to do the little metal repair so I painted the back of the cab and bulkhead of the bed too. Mounted the bed back up and sprayed the rest of it. It’s not pretty but I think it looks good and at least it’s one color. And I’m loving the raceline/Irok combo. Old tires/rims still on the back cause I haven’t gotten around to swapping them over. Mostly I wanted to see what the front clearance is gonna be Clarance. I’m going to remove a leaf from the front pack. Also, now that the windshield hole is painted I can get the windshield back in with a new gasket
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Dude.....dat bisch is hot! I like it.
 
So I have been sporting a blue tarp for the last few months to cover up the windshield hole. I took the windshield out originally because the gasket was completely shot and leaking horribly and also I had to have access to weld on the cage. I got the windshield hole cleaned up and after I got the truck painted I knew it was time to put the windshield back in. I had ordered a new gasket a few months ago and have been doing research on how to put the windshield in but was just never felt comfortable doing it. I called in town to the big-name glass place and they said they could get to me about three weeks but they had never done something of this vintage. I remembered seeing a small glass place not too far from my house so I gave him a call and he said well what are you doing this afternoon and I said I’m here at the house he said I’m on my way. $100 later I have a windshield in my truck. And, he bought two bunnies from our farm for $20 apiece so in the long run it didn’t wind up costing me that much money. I’m pretty excited because this is a big mile stone and the truck looks great with the glass put back in it.
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Spent some of @BigSouth money he paid for the beadlocks I sold him and got another gallon of herculiner. The one I had was only about 2/3 full and I could see some primer poking through here and there. All in I’m pretty happy. Don’t think rust will be an issue. Now to get the fuel cell I got from @Mulishajoe and @jeepin' jen mounted.
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Got a fuel cell and “basket” from @Mulishajoe and his better half. It was meant to floor mount and the sump would go through the floor. My bed has enough weight reduction already so I wasn’t keen on blowing more holes in my ship. I added legs to keep it elevated. I cut 4x 1.75”/.188 wall DOM scraps I had laying around from the cage and then gave it a splash of paint. Time will tell but I see no reason this shouldn’t work.
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Painted, installed, and no more ratchet straps! Time to measure for drive shafts. Oh, and find the u-bolts I need to clamp down the back mounting locations of the crossmember. When you run a newer 5spd in a 1st gen truck you slide the x-member back to the rear bolt location and use u-bolts to hold the rear bolt holes in place around the frame (per Bud Built). One would think that newer 5spd swaps are so common someone would make a fitting xmember but they don’t. Oh yeah, finish the exhaust too. Lol
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Edit: ordered the u bolts off the line. $25.00 to the door with washers and the proper ubolt Nutz.
 
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skyhighZJ said:
Painted, installed, and no more ratchet straps! Time to measure for drive shafts. Oh, and find the u-bolts I need to clamp down the back mounting locations of the crossmember. When you run a newer 5spd in a 1st gen truck you slide the x-member back to the rear bolt location and use u-bolts to hold the rear bolt holes in place around the frame (per Bud Built). One would think that newer 5spd swaps are so common someone would make a fitting xmember but they don’t. Oh yeah, finish the exhaust too. Lol View attachment 356544

Edit: ordered the u bolts off the line. $25.00 to the door with washers and the proper ubolt Nutz.
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@marty79 can add that to his list
 
That's weird they don't have a plate that you weld onto the frame like fail gear does.
 
So the wife is out of town and I got back to messing with this thing. Some fuel down the vent into the bowl and it fired instantly after a couple pumps of the pedal. Great oil pressure on cold start and settles into the happy range as the engine warms up. Stays nice and cool too. No valve train or rod noise. Problem is on wrapping the throttle clouds of blue smoke are coming out. Very minimal at idle. Oil cap is dancing like James brown and gets jiggy with it when revving the the truck. Rings??

p.s. Engine did sit for a good while before I bought it but honestly I don’t know it’s full history.
 
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I'd say either rings or valve seals. Did you pull the oil cap with it running and put your hand over the hole to see if you can feel any pulses? Does it push out the dipstick? Just curious if the cap was jungle jiving it from vibrations.
 
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