Spider gears

If it were me, I'd either leave the shims as they are or add 0.004" backlash.
Here's why...
When you install the bearings for the last time, you will seat them more than you can with setup bearings. As a result, that will be a better representation of backlash.
Also, the new carrier bearings will seat a bit, somewhat quickly. As they wear in, the backlash will open up a little.
My suggestion is (assuming the preload feels ok) to swap one of the 0.0025" shims over to the Non Ring Gear side (NRG), install the new bearings and check it or just swap 0.005" over to the NRG side with setup bearings.

Keep me posted buddy. You got this
 
Ok, thank you. If I measured correctly, the original shims were about .0385 RG and .0345 NRG, equaling .073. I the new one I started with .0325 on the RG side and .0345 on the NRG side, equaling .067. I redid it to .029 on the RG and .038 on the NRG (also .067). This is all assuming the little micrometer I have is correct. So if I put it back to .0325 and .0345, should I add a little more to each side to equal the original ~.073 for proper preload?
As far as the carrier preload, it was definitely hard getting it in and harder getting it back out than when I originally took it out. Like you said though, the bearings will press on better than the set up ones. So if I added a little more to the NRG side (like .002) than the RG (.001) it should get backlash where it needs to be with a little room to open up, right?
 
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correct
If the preload feels good, simply adjust side to side until proper BL is attained

Pro Tip #175326
Don't forget to add a little wheel bearing grease to the outside of the carrier bearing races. That way they will slide in much easier.
 
So I don't HAVE to have the same total of shims as the original? Or will I add more to each side when I press on the actual bearings? (I know, talk to me like I'm a 5 year old, I'm a little thick headed, lol)
 
Without reading back through your post here's what I would do if it were me. I would start with the original amount of shims on each side. I would then install the carrier and check backlash. If it was too little or too much I would move shims from side to side to dial it in. All the while keeping the original overall thickness regardless of how much was on either side.
 
I put .001 on the RG side and .002 on the NRG, making it .0335 and .0365 respectively. That gave me a backlash of ~.0065. The total amount of shims is .07. The original was ~.074, so I need another .002 each side to get to the original number. Sound correct? If you're like me, it's easier doing something than trying to explain how to do it. I know I seem to be going in circles. [emoji43][emoji87][emoji85]
 
Big props to @Jody Treadway /Carolina Axle and 4x4 for the help with getting the bearings on the carrier and axle shaft! Thanks again man. (Though you may be the only one reading this thread now, lol). Test fit the carrier and backlash is still in spec. I took it back out to install the Aussie I bought.

Here's where I'm stuck again. [emoji34] Got it all put in, but the clearance between the "cams" is barely in spec on one side, right at .0145, but about .130ish on the other. I obviously had to buy an open carrier (new from ECGS) to make this work. Also had to buy a couple side gear thrust washers (from rock auto). They measure .025 each. I'm thinking they may be my problem, but the fact that there's a slight difference from side to side is odd. Torque Masters, who distributes the Aussie, sells .010 and .042 thrust washers along with the size I have ($26 though! As supposed to $.84 for one regular one). I haven't emailed them yet, I figured I shouldn't hear from them until Monday, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Thoughts?
 
So I went back tonight to remeasure things just to see. Either my feeler gauges are cheap or my micrometer is, or both lol. Anyway, when I add up some of the gauges to get around the gap specs of .145-.170 I added some of them up to a little less than .145, however when I use my micrometer to measure them together, it shows right at .145. It fits with slight drag on one side and a tighter fit on the other, but does fit.
When I pry the cams away the side gears there is enough room for the teeth to pass each other without touching. That's with bearing grease on them, I would assume that 85w140 oil wouldn't be as thick, allowing even more room(?).
Gonna see what Aussie says, hopefully tomorrow. If I have to, I did finally find some .010" thrust washers on Grainger's website, so I can order a couple of those for a little over $6 together, compared to Torque Masters $26 ones.
 
Got a reply email from Aussie. Per their advice, gonna take it back apart and double check the thrust washers. Will probably be getting thinner ones (.010-.005 thinner) to make the clearances work. Just a few more days with the Jeep down. [emoji24]
 
I need to change my profile. I wish I still had the Rubicon that I did when I joined. Stupid me got rid of it 6 years ago. I have a '99 Sahara now.
 
Ok, so I got the new, thinner thrust washers and they corrected the final gap to where it needed to be. I still had to clearance the cross shaft a tiny bit, but now that gap is correct, too. The Aussie is in the carrier, but now I can't get the cross shaft roll pin in. I've searched, but every post I've found online is about getting the roll pin out. Looking through the hole, the cross shaft hole for the roll pin appears to be lined up. The cross shaft hole is just a tiny bit smaller than the hole in the carrier. No matter what I do, I can't get that roll pin in. I've even put it in the freezer and heated up the cross shaft, but still no luck. I've pounded the heck out of the brass punches and even grinded a little on the pin to try and taper the end. What do I do?
 
I think I figured it out, but don't have time now to try it. Gotta go to work. I'll wait and see what y'all say though in case my idea is dumb. I'll keep it to myself for now, lol.
 
Well, I got it all back together. There were two holes in the cross shaft and I was using the wrong hole. Flipped it around and clearanced it to fit between the Aussie spacers, worked like a charm. Got the carrier back in and did the Aussie-specific test to make sure it ratchets properly, which it did. Just waiting on the rtv to dry to fill the diff and drive it. Fingers crossed I didn't goof it up. [emoji120]
 
I drove it today and no weird noises, just the slight ratcheting around turns. I did notice the diff cover apparently has a little bend in it. There is a very slight legal at the bottom. I'll keep an eye on it and change the fluid in a couple hundred miles, then reseal better.
 
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