SXOR single seater build

[Hokie_YJ]

I finally had a few hours free to work on this thing a bit today. I finished up the chassis side of the brake lines. The hard lines are .25" 316 stainless seamless tubing. The fittings are Swagelok compression fittings. And the flex hoses are Swagelok teflon lined braided stainless with .25" tubing ends. I also added a valve in the rear brake line to use as a parking brake if needed. I'm also going to split some rubber hose to go over the tubing and flex hoses anywhere there's any rubbing.

 

[Andy J.]

Awesome build! Subbed

 

[Hokie_YJ]

Thanks man!

 

[Hokie_YJ]

I'm still working on this thing when I get the chance, just most of the stuff I'm doing right now isn't really worth taking pics of. I'm kinda at the point of staring at it and trying to think if there's anything else that needs to be done before I tear it all apart for welding, paint, wiring, and plumbing. It's getting closer, but still have several little piddly things to do. I did take these pics the other day while i was working on it.
These are the (+) and (-) bus bars. They're from Blue Sea Maraine, and they're rated at 1000 amps. They're seriously overkill, and honestly I didn't realize just how big they were when I was ordering them. They ended up not fitting where I had originally hoped to put them so they landed here under the hood.


This is the panel that goes on the B-pillar behind the headrest. It came with the chassis when I bought it. I just cut some holes for the intake and shoulder belts, and so that the transmission cooler can get some airflow to it. The red lexan obviously won't match with the black and copper, but rather than cutting something else I'm just going to paint it black to match.



I realize this is a pretty pathetic update, but I just wanted to let anybody that cares know that I am still working on it and progress is being made. Most of it just isn't worth posting about.

 

[GONOVRIT]

Since you're close now, When do you think you're going to hit the trail?

 

[Hokie_YJ]

I would like to say by fall, but we'll see how it goes I guess.

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

Might could paint it with VHT or put tint on both sides. Either might keep it somewhat translucent if you don't want it opaque.

 

[Hokie_YJ]

I hadn't thought about that. I'm really not too concerned about being able to see through it though. There's so much stuff mounted right behind it that you wouldn't be able to see much even if it was clear.

 

[Hokie_YJ]

Here's a few more progress pics from the last couple days. A lot of time was spent just mapping out in my head how all the wiring and plumbing is going to be routed and tacking on zip tie tabs etc. to secure everything. I did get a few more things done though.
I welded up and painted the fire extinguisher mounts I got from JDuck. These things are really nice, you can't beat them for the money. I'm going to mount one inside where I can reach it while i'm strapped in, and one in the back around the motor somewhere. I'm thinking I'll probably go with the ColdFire extinguishers.




I also rolled the axles out from under it and installed the 3rd members. I tried doing it with the axles still under the buggy, but it was just way easier this way and they had to come out anyway.




I also assembled the front axle shafts. The joints are CTMs. The outers are custom CTM 300M 2nd gen Dodge 33 spline unit bearing style stubs, and the inners are Moser 35 spline chromos. One day I'll probably order some CTM inners to match. (The front shafts, no joints, came with the chassis when I bought it as a roller) Both are machined for 50* steering. I still have to install the shafts and cycle the ram though to see how much angle I can use and whether or not I need to de-stroke the ram.


And here's the rear axle shafts, I got these in a long time ago, but I'm not sure if I ever posted any pics of them. They're custom length CTM 300M 35 spline double splined shafts with CTM 300M drive flanges.


Hopefully I won't be breaking any axle shafts, but ring & pinions will probably hate me though.
I'm hoping it won't be too long before I tear it all apart and start welding and painting. I'm still trying to order up the rest of the parts I need here and there when the wallet allows. I got my ORI dual fill kit and a bunch of AN hose and fittings last week. I ordered my nitrogen regulator for the fill kit this week along with some other small parts. I still have some wiring stuff to order too, and then I'm sure there will be several things that I'll remember at the last minute that I need.

 

[mcutler]

Great progress. Hope to personally see this buggy wheel this year, looks like a lot of fun.

 

[Hokie_YJ]

Thanks man! I can't wait to get it done.

 

[Hokie_YJ]

I had a few minutes this afternoon so I slid the shafts in the front axle and cycled the ram to see if I was going to have to limit it. Luckily everything clears great. With the ram at full lock in either direction the knuckles are still an inch or so away from hitting the steering stops and I can still fit my little finger between the ears of the shafts.

At full lock in either direction the outside goes close to 55*, and the inside is about 45* or so. Is it normal for the outside tire to turn that much sharper than the inside? Or do I have something screwed up?

Here's some pics.



Full lock left.





Full lock right.

 

[Hokie_YJ]

I got the driveshafts built today. The front and rear shafts are only about 1" different in length so I was able to build both shafts identical and will be able to build one spare to work for both.















The angles on the rear shaft suck, but it is what it is. I wish whoever originally built the axle would have moved the 3rd a couple inches closer to the passenger side. It would have made life so much easier for me. I still have to flex it out and just hope nothing binds and everything clears.





As you can see the rear shaft is a little cozy with the oil filter. I'm thinking about building something off the engine skid to come up and cover the oil filter. I would make it removable so that the filter could be changed without dropping the skid. But I also went ahead and ordered the remote oil filter adapter for this pan in case I need it.

I ran out of time today before I could get the front shaft bolted up. I'll do that in the morning then flex it out and hope and pray that everything clears ok.

 

[StretchASU]

I know its already 10lbs of shit in a 5lb bag, but for peace of mind I would probably just go ahead and throw on that remote oil filter adapter when it comes in and just be done with it. Just build a little shield to protect the adapter and lines and you won't have to remove it to change the filter.

Not sure which one you ordered, but Improved Racing has a cool little one for the LS engines that has an oil temp port in it too.

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

I got the driveshafts built today. The front and rear shafts are only about 1" different in length so I was able to build both shafts identical and will be able to build one spare to work for both.

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The angles on the rear shaft suck, but it is what it is. I wish whoever originally built the axle would have moved the 3rd a couple inches closer to the passenger side. It would have made life so much easier for me. I still have to flex it out and just hope nothing binds and everything clears.

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As you can see the rear shaft is a little cozy with the oil filter. I'm thinking about building something off the engine skid to come up and cover the oil filter. I would make it removable so that the filter could be changed without dropping the skid. But I also went ahead and ordered the remote oil filter adapter for this pan in case I need it.

I ran out of time today before I could get the front shaft bolted up. I'll do that in the morning then flex it out and hope and pray that everything clears ok.

Are those slip parts from a driveshaft supplier or industrial? They look like industrial parts I was looking at yest

 

[Chuckman]

ooooooh baby, that looks fun

 

[Hokie_YJ]

I know its already 10lbs of shit in a 5lb bag, but for peace of mind I would probably just go ahead and throw on that remote oil filter adapter when it comes in and just be done with it. Just build a little shield to protect the adapter and lines and you won't have to remove it to change the filter.

Not sure which one you ordered, but Improved Racing has a cool little one for the LS engines that has an oil temp port in it too.

I probably will go ahead and do that. The oil pan is from Pacific Fabrication. I ordered the adapter block for the pan from them and they also offered a remote filter mount that they use a lot so I just went ahead and got it. I'm not sure the brand of it. Improved Racing does have some really nice stuff though. I originally had a GTO pan on this motor with their baffle, and I've bought a few other things from them too.

 

[Hokie_YJ]

Are those slip parts from a driveshaft supplier or industrial? They look like industrial parts I was looking at yest

They are 1.625" - 10 spline stuff sold by Neapco. I believe they're sold as PTO shaft. I found them a few places online, but I got them through my local Fleet Pride and they beat everyone online.

The slip spline shaft is 28" overall with about 2" of smooth shaft on the end. I originally bought two, but ended up cutting them in half. The smooth part of the shaft is 1.375" o.d. So to mate it to the yoke I put it inside a piece of 1.75" x .188 DOM and the put that inside a piece of 2" x .120 DOM. It took a little grinding and a press, but it all fit together good.

The coupler is 2" o.d. I used 2.5" x .250 tubing, probably way overkill. And the yoke on that end also has a short piece of 2" x .120 tubing slipped inside the 2.5"

Here's the part #s:

Shaft-Neapco #72-2231 or possibly 2231-3
Coupler-Neapco #53-2415
Yokes-Spicer #3-28-777

 

[Hokie_YJ]

ooooooh baby, that looks fun

Thanks man!

 

[Hokie_YJ]

I'm hoping to get back to working on this thing next week.

I've been doing a lot of looking at things and thinking. The angle on the rear driveshaft is really bugging me. I'm thinking about moving the rear axle back 3-4" making the wheelbase roughly 108". I know it won't make a huge difference, but it will help some with the driveshaft angle.

It seems like it will be as simple as just building new links or ordering some 7075 links from WOD, and moving the shock mounts on the chassis. I'll have to do some measuring to see if I'll have enough travel in the driveshaft for it to work.

Just looking for some opinions and input on this before I decide whether or not to do it. So what do you guys think?

 

[GONOVRIT]

The extra wheelbase certainly wouldn't hurt and you would thank yourself for at least getting AL lowers.

 

[Hokie_YJ]

I'm leaning pretty heavily toward going ahead and moving the axle back. If I do I believe I will definitely go 7075. I was hoping I could find some on a black Friday/cyber Monday deal somewhere. No luck so far though.

 

[Hokie_YJ]

When I got home from work tonight I took a few measurements and dusted off the old right angle trig. Right now the horizontal angle at the pinion is 21*. If I move the axle back 4" it should bring it down to 18*, 5" would be 17.25*, and 6" would be 16.66*.

 

[Leroy_cocke]

You mean your not done yet?

 

[Hokie_YJ]

Nope.