Tera Low 231 HD or Atlas

CasterTroy

CasterTroy

Faster'N You
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Location
Wallburg
I didn't want to derail ghosts post with some OTHER options since mines a TJ and I'm asking specifically for my application (stock 2002 TJ w/231)

Anyway, I'm looking at going 4:1 (ish) and I didn't know if the Tera Low 231 HD was a good option of saving money over the Atlas (or are there other options I'm not aware of?)

Not sure I'd tackle this one myself unless I could get some willing experienced volunteers to help me so I'd have to pay to have either option installed (correctly)

I'd like the 2 low option with the Tera Low kit, but If I'm going to spend $1500 (parts) for the Tera low, does it make sense to save a few more months and get a twin stick for +/-$3109?

This won't eventually become a buggy (no seriously....I've seen enough and been around long enough to know what I want). What I AM doing though, is taking baby steps to eventually step up to 35's (at the MOST) at some point once I get all the other potential problems addressed, and I know a better crawl speed is what I want. So that's why I'm leaning toward a Tera low kit, but I'd love advice/input on this from you guys.
 
I have been debating the same thing. First off Stak is an option just like Atlas. Flipping a Dana 300 is also another option.

So far here is what I have learned. The 231 is a chain driven aluminum housing transfer case. Gear driven steel cases are stronger and preferred. The Tera low kit does not get rid of the chains nor does it give you a stronger case housing. I have also read that the Tera 231 kit does not like higher RPMs, so you are stuck with either a 4:1 low or running in 4 high. For now I have decided to not go with the 231 Tera kit, and instead save my pennies for a new transfer case all together.
 
I don't put much weight into the case strength arguments. You can break a 231, but you're more likely to do it by pushing the front driveshaft through the case than by most anything else. And if you replace the 231 with a stronger case, you're just going to break the transmission instead. But the thrust in the planetary from the unequal gears in the Tera Low is a real issue. You can burn up the Tera Low kit by driving around at "high speed" in 4-low.

Once you start talking about SYE, Tera Low gears, front disconnect, etc, the price break to an Atlas isn't quite so much. We're saving up for an Atlas for Cyd's Jeep. Hardest part for me is figuring out whether to get a 3.8 or a 4.3.
 
An Atlas is nowhere near $3100 unless you really enjoy paying full MSRP and not making a call around to AA dealers.
My Atlas was sub-$2300 to my door a year and a half ago. Look around and do some price checking.

I have had a fully polished 231 and have zero regrets. If you keep your eyes open, you can find used ones for a great price too.
 
shawn said:
Once you start talking about SYE, Tera Low gears, front disconnect, etc, the price break to an Atlas isn't quite so much.
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Exactly!

shawn said:
Hardest part for me is figuring out whether to get a 3.8 or a 4.3.
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I was wondering that too. Am I really going to go hard core enough to warrant the 4.3? Shouldn't the 3.8 be just fine for, lets say...Moab? (worst crawl scenario I can think of being in)

Jody Treadway said:
If you keep your eyes open, you can find used ones for a great price too.
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See the problem is....folks like that Treadway guy in crocs that tell folks like that Shawn guy (also in crocs) about these damn deals so fast, us NORMAL guys (in teva's) can't jump on them quick enough!

:flipoff2:

Actually Jody I was hoping for other options like you said, and maybe it would spark a "hey I know this guy who has...." kind of discussion.
Also, I know for an Atlas I have a few choices OTHER than retail (which is making it harder to justify anything else) like @Oliver's (whom I would also have install)

Thanks for the input so far :rockon:
 
For the longest time, I was planning to flip a D300 and install the LoMax 4:1 and a set of cable shifters. I just sold the D300 last week, as I still haven't got around to it and it no longer made sense. If i was going to tons, 1350 yokes and 300+ hp, I likely would have done it. Considering my wheeling style and budget, the plan now would be to throw a 241OR case from a rubi in it. You can find them regularly for $1500 (there's one on CL now for $1k) and you can likely get a few hundred for your 231. That would make it both the cheaper and less labor intensive way to go...imo.
 
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If you have an 5spd, 4:1 could help you out a lot. Rubicon 241 cases are pretty damn tough and can take some spirited driving. One company devepled a brace for the back of the 241 and ran a bone stock 241 with that brace for a full KOH race. I'd rather go that route than a built 231.


Edit: granted I've got a JK with a gutless 3.8 and a 6spd, but 3 gear in 4wd low it does perfectly fine in the mud with 4.10s and that 4:1 case, slinging 38.5 SXs on steel wheels locked front and rear. I need a deeper crawl ratio for my liking but I think uwharrie would be a 2nd gear 4wd low kinda deal for me. 1st in 4wd low still crawls pretty good and better than a comparable jk with a 2.72:1/241 case but with 5.38s
 
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241OR also have 32 spline outputs. You can use standard 32 spline yokes like off of a atlas but the seals are the weird part. I had found a few that might work but you can also turn down the dia of the yoke at the seal mating surface to get better alignment. Several guys have been doing this instead of using flanges to get a little more driveshaft length


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Mac5005 said:
Why not run the rubicon 241, already 4:1 and HD outputs.
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Dave at Oliver's really talked me out of that. Given The extents of my abilities I would have handed it to him to install anyway, but he was saying by the time I had all the parts and accessories to make a 241OR work in MY TJ, I was in Atlas territory anyway
 
It's a hoss, for one thing. Probably means reworking all your belly skid/crossmember, etc, plus cable shifter, driveshaft work, etc.
 
CasterTroy said:
Dave at Oliver's really talked me out of that. Given The extents of my abilities I would have handed it to him to install anyway, but he was saying by the time I had all the parts and accessories to make a 241OR work in MY TJ, I was in Atlas territory anyway
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Wow ok.

I guess I'm surprised to hear that.

Either way you will be reworking driveshafts and mounts. As well as skids.

I'm curious to see the cost comparison and breakdown of both options.

In other words,

Atlas is $2600 plus getting it in.
241 is $1100 plus getting it in.

Just curious where the other $1500 goes to getting it in there. I've never done the swap so I honestly don't know. I run an old worn out d300.
 
Mac5005 said:
Just curious where the other $1500 goes to getting it in there. I've never done the swap so I honestly don't know.
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From what I'm seeing, the gap is closer to UNDER $1000 difference. Still it's a difference. But it's one of those "OK so here you have a built mustang, but for only 20% more you can have a Porsche"

So I don't know...is having a Porsche THAT much better? My mind is not made up and I'm open to all suggestions at this point
 
CasterTroy said:
From what I'm seeing, the gap is closer to UNDER $1000 difference. Still it's a difference. But it's one of those "OK so here you have a built mustang, but for only 20% more you can have a Porsche"

So I don't know...is having a Porsche THAT much better? My mind is not made up and I'm open to all suggestions at this point
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Same amount of work involved in the swap, much stronger case and gearing options, plus its a TJ with an Atlas. Immediately +1000 Bro points if you ever go to sell it. I'm a cheap ass and would still go for the Atlas in this debate.
 
I hear you can put a doubler on a 231 and then its good for at least 38's...
 
uwharrie.jpg
 
Front digs on a D30 with 35s are always a good idea.
 
Joe J. said:
I'm not worried so much about 4:1 t-case for around here, it's usually slick anyway and you'll need the wheel speed. Just regear the axles a little deeper for your tire size and live with a higher rpm on the street.
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This.

As soon as I picked up a dana 300 I was drooling over the lowmax 4:1 kit. Then I realized how ridiculous it is to use that lowest gear on east coast trails. Any future re-gear will compensate for the the stock lo range in the Dana 300.
 
Nix the 231 doubler idea. I had one, broke it like 6 times, pulled it put in an Atlas and never looked back.
I run tons, 43 tsl sx's, pushed by a 350 TBI, 350 trans and 4 speed atlas with 1:1, 2.72:1 planetary, and 3.8:1 in the case. THe 2.72:1 reduction planetary isn't used often, but when assending a steep hill and I loose traction, I pull it down and can back off with control. Descending a hill, I can pull it in and use no brakes and throttle down it.
buy my application is far different than what you are going to use it for. But zero issues with the atlas, have broke a yoke or two, but wasn't the t-case's issue.
 
Joe J. said:
I'm not worried so much about 4:1 t-case for around here, it's usually slick anyway and you'll need the wheel speed. Just regear the axles a little deeper for your tire size and live with a higher rpm on the street.
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The answer depends to some extent on your gear ratio and transmission.

4.88 in the diffs with no overdrive is useless on the street. With 32s or 33s, it's a gear-banger regardless of your motor or whether or not you have OD.

But a 4.10 in the diffs with a 3.8 low is a good place to be for most folks in most any configuration. It keeps auto trans temps down, keeps you off the clutch with a manual trans, etc.

Gear the diffs for the street, IMHO.
 
Says the guy who doesn't drive his jeep anymore.
 
shawn said:
4.10 in the diffs with a 3.8 low is a good place to be for most folks in most any configuration. It keeps auto trans temps down, keeps you off the clutch with a manual trans, etc.

Gear the diffs for the street, IMHO.
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This...EXACTLY
 
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