Thoughts on Bronco vs K5?

I honestly had no problem with the 302 in my bronco, but it was a 5 speed and geared.......sheesh, what DID I gear it?? I can't remember. But Bill Carver with 44 magnum (back when he was in Mt Pilot living by that amazing creek in the old Mill house) geared it and put detroits in the axles. That was my only regret....detroits! That took this smooth driving, WONDERFUL mall crawler, and made it a nightmare to try and drive on the road. Made it excellent offroad! But boy did it screw up it's drive-ability around town. Honestly it was why I got rid of it. I LOVED that body style


Lifted, 35's, winch and armor was all I had. Loved that damn thing. Never felt like I NEEDED a 351 onroad or off

She was pretty rusty though.....above the wheel arches and at the tailgate. But some creative bedliner fixed that

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CasterTroy said:
I honestly had no problem with the 302 in my bronco, but it was a 5 speed and geared.......sheesh, what DID I gear it?? I can't remember. But Bill Carver with 44 magnum (back when he was in Mt Pilot living by that amazing creek in the old Mill house) geared it and put detroits in the axles. That was my only regret....detroits! That took this smooth driving, WONDERFUL mall crawler, and made it a nightmare to try and drive on the road. Made it excellent offroad! But boy did it screw up it's drive-ability around town. Honestly it was why I got rid of it. I LOVED that body style


Lifted, 35's, winch and armor was all I had. Loved that damn thing. Never felt like I NEEDED a 351 onroad or off

She was pretty rusty though.....above the wheel arches and at the tailgate. But some creative bedliner fixed that

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That was a really good looking Bronco. Something weird must have been going on with your Detroit. I had an 86 Bronco with a 9" and a Detroit. I started out with the worn out limited slip of course, then I rebuilt the limited slip and tightened it up by shimming the springs. I finally ended up installing a Detroit. I never had any weird quirks. I used to drive it to Uwharrie regularly, and even drove it all the way to Tellico once.
 
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lifted 5-speed bronco on 35's driven by a lunatic....my experience was quite a bit different from yours :D
 
Mine had a C6. Maybe the 5 speed made it quirky some how.
 
Having met both of you I can see how the "Detroit experience" in otherwise similar trucks could vary wildly for you! :) Can confirm the lunatic diagnosis as well ha!


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I have a tan bronco soft top somewhere. I think it needs a new back window, but it's a hell of a lot cheaper than $1000.
 
A friend in high school had two similar broncos, 1 351 and 1 302. I know the 351 was a 91 Eddie Bauer, don't remember the year on the 302 but it was similar. Both stock geared, automatic, on 35s. The 351 was a beast and the 302 was a dog. Could have been other differences, maybe gearing, never checked what they were (3.55 vs. 3.73?).
 
ive had:
2 1978 broncos 351m (C6/205 C6/203) 31"s-36"s
1 1986 full size bronco 351w c4 33"s
1 1987 full size bronco 351w HO c6 31"s and 35"s
1 1988 Bronco II 2.9l sherrod convertible A4LD BW1350 33"s
2 1989 Bronco II 2.9l A4LD BG1350 33"s
1 1990 Bronco II 2.9l A4LD BG1350 33"s

needless to say, i have a thing for broncos. That being said, unless you do too, go for a k5. but if you still wanna stick with broncos, lemme spill whats in my head.

first of all...value. now that EBs (early broncos 66-77) are becoming too expensive the 78/79 is becoming the go to bronco for beginner collectors and off roaders. a restored bronco will bring more money than a k5. now is the time to buy them though. remember when fzj land cruisers were cheap years ago and the FJ40 market when sky high.

i dont think i'll own another 80+ bronco. unless i buy a 93+ for the wife. i just prefer the 78/79

no matter what route you go, there isnt a model that has the right motor in it. they are all under powered.

unless you go with a 78/79 (you want a 78 - round headlights-) you'll have to deal with TTB. 78/79 has a solid axle Dan 44. you'll still want a dana 60 if you go over 33" tires (which fit with no lift).

95/96 have that stupid 3rd brake light and rear seatbelts botled to the roof. technically, its not legal to remove the top.

78/79 have weak brakes, but upgrading is bolt on and less than $200.

find one with a C6....thats important. the C4's in some models arent worth it.

a 460 v8 is a direct replacement bolt in for the 78/79. they should have come factory with this!
the other models will fit anything that came in the same year f150/250

i believe there are some dana 60 bolt ins (f250 snowfigher 8 lug dana 44 will) for the 78/79 models. SAS swaps arent all that complicated. you need to weld on the wedges to keep a radius arm set up. there are companies that sell SAS kits ($1500) for the TTB rigs.

the rear driveshaft need to be lengthened, or it will pop out in reverse, that or you'll need to fight spring wrap.

stay away from the NP203s unless you are doing a doubler swap, then find you an np205 and mate them.

As stated by others, they are BEASTS on the trail. jsut like k5s, you'll find yourself scaping body panels. but they are stable laterally. specially with cut fenders, no lift and big tires. low and slow.



In the end, if you go with a 78/79 with relatively little work, you can have a nice wheeler with a decent ride.


my current set up is a 1978 351m c6 np203 with part time shaft installed. (i get option of 2wd low) and warn hubs. 33"s. other than its bone stock. you are welcome to come drive it and get a feel for broncos.
 
Reid said:
In the end, if you go with a 78/79 with relatively little work, you can have a nice wheeler with a decent ride.

my current set up is a 1978 351m c6 np203 with part time shaft installed. (i get option of 2wd low) and warn hubs. 33"s. other than its bone stock. you are welcome to come drive it and get a feel for broncos.
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Reid, that is a great post, tons of information and it really does help!! I am still leaning Bronco now, mostly for two reasons, I have not owned one yet and I am thinking mild wheeler so they are set up nicer for that. I may take you up on the offer to come check out your current Bronco, I actually really dig the 78/79 and have 2 or 3 of them saved in my "list" from CL searches. I will bounce those off of you directly as well to get your thoughts on them as I get closer, but I live in Kernersville so we are close by / nice to know I would have a 'local' Bronco expert! :)

Sam
 
Reid said:
unless you go with a 78/79 (you want a 78 - round headlights-). .

78/79 have weak brakes, but upgrading is bolt on and less than $200.

find one with a C6....thats important. the C4's in some models arent worth it.

a 460 v8 is a direct replacement bolt in for the 78/79. they should have come factory with this!

i believe there are some dana 60 bolt ins (f250 snowfigher 8 lug dana 44 will) for the 78/79 models.
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Just for a little point of fact clarification on these...

1) round headlights were a trim level thing for 78 only. Customs got them, every trim level above that (ranger, xlt, lariat) received the rectangle lights, and everything in 79 had rectangle. Anything else and it's been swapped.

2) brakes are weak, I think I posted my 350 upgrade somewhere around here. In 79 they changed the booster/pedal linkage, so at serial # DJ0001, you'll have to use 79 350 2wd stuff, before that, use 78. Mc/booster combo is about $200, it's a marginal improvement, you can get way more in depth with brake line diameter, calipers, etc and get it even better, but you'll end up spending $450 or so, and at that point you might as well just go hydroboost.

3) All auto 4x4's from the 73-79 era had a c6 from the factory, anything else has been swapped.

4) the 460 swap isn't quite a direct bolt in, close but not quite. You can hack frame and mounts, but I always cringe when I see that bruncledaddy work. Then you'll have accessory brackets/locations to deal with. And finally, if you have a manual, the bellhousing is a direct bolt on, but you'll need to swap pilot bearing and flywheel minimum.

5) the SnoFighter was available in 78/9...it was a D60 front truck. And D60's were actually optional on all 250's in 78/9, and standard on 350's. (Strictly talking hp 60's here)
 
For those in the know, late model Broncos they did not want you removing the top and I even see the rear seat belt was mounted to it? (95-96?) Where did the rear seat belt mount for earlier years, onto the rear seat itself? And to compare, the K5 blazers, how did they handle rear seating seat belts? Final thought in this series, any "cheap tricks" like say buying a 4-6 point roll bar from Jeeps or such and mounting in rear / hooking seatbelts to them? Versus hiring local fab shop to build one?
 
K5s had lap belts only (at best) in rear throughout production run.

Jeep roll bar would be too narrow.

I'm a ford guy. Love them. First ...bunch of vehicles were Ford or Jeep.
What got me into GMs at all was wheeling.
There is no price comparison in terms of lifting, modding or repairing. GM wins hands down.
4 leafs from the factory lift cheap.
And with a 350...the motor remained largely unchanged from 67-03.

With Fords you'd have different bellhousing patterns, internal/external/ 80/150 balanced motors..etc etc etc. Meaning parts can, at times, turn into a 1 needle in a haystack.
If you need a waterpump in Harlan Ky...I'd bet my last dollar there is one for a SBC sitting on a shelf in whatever autoparts store you walk in with a 351W or 351M there is at best a 50/50 shot of having it and then another 25/75 shot of it being the one you need. If its a 302....well we are going to need to know what year. Rotation changes in there and some are upper radiator output,. some lower. Some Left Some Right.

Cube for Cube I maintain you can build a Ford to make more power than a GM motor. The TTB front end has high potential...but its expensive to extract that power and potential.


But Blazers have gotten way too damn expensive....so by all means. Buy a Bronco. :flipoff2:
 
K5 for sure. Fullsize Chevys are the real panty droppers
 
SHINTON said:
For those in the know, late model Broncos they did not want you removing the top and I even see the rear seat belt was mounted to it? (95-96?) Where did the rear seat belt mount for earlier years, onto the rear seat itself? And to compare, the K5 blazers, how did they handle rear seating seat belts? Final thought in this series, any "cheap tricks" like say buying a 4-6 point roll bar from Jeeps or such and mounting in rear / hooking seatbelts to them? Versus hiring local fab shop to build one?
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It has been many years, but I'm pretty sure my 86 Bronco only had lap belts in the back.

I only wheeled my Bronco about 2 years before taking it apart and building it into a Ranger cab truck exo thing. ALL of the wheeling with the Bronco was done with the top off. I did a lot of wheeling during that 2 years, and by the end, the upper rear corners of the cab where the top bolted on were cracking apart from all the flexing. The frame and tub would flex a LOT. A good full cage tied into the frame from the A-pillars all the way back to the rear of the frame would probably help tremendously.

JT's old Stump Jumper (my old 76 GMC Jimmy) flexed a ton too. He had to add a brace from frame rail to frame rail over the transmission, and also ended up adding all sorts of cage/exo later on. Both the Bronco and Blazer seem to suffer from the same problem.
 
SHINTON said:
For those in the know, late model Broncos they did not want you removing the top and I even see the rear seat belt was mounted to it? (95-96?) Where did the rear seat belt mount for earlier years, onto the rear seat itself? And to compare, the K5 blazers, how did they handle rear seating seat belts? Final thought in this series, any "cheap tricks" like say buying a 4-6 point roll bar from Jeeps or such and mounting in rear / hooking seatbelts to them? Versus hiring local fab shop to build one?
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I want to say it was during or after the body style change that the 3 point belts went in the back. My dad's 88 bronco just has lap belts and they are attached to and come out with the rear seat.

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UTfball68 said:
Just for a little point of fact clarification on these...
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thanks for picking up my slack there. i should have waited til today and not tried to post at 4am.

further info to add...you'll get more bang for your buck by doing the thunderbird caliper swap than the f250 MC booster swap. but both projects together help a lot. i did just the MC/booster swap on my first 78 and wasnt impressed for the money.
 
drkelly said:
I did a lot of wheeling during that 2 years, and by the end, the upper rear corners of the cab where the top bolted on were cracking apart from all the flexing. The frame and tub would flex a LOT. A good full cage tied into the frame from the A-pillars all the way back to the rear of the frame would probably help tremendously.
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good call on that. ive popped my windshield twice


Sam, I dont know about expert. There are certainly other here more knowledgeable than i. i just know what ive learned trying to keep my stuff running over the years.

but yeah, kernersville isnt far. hit me up any time.
 
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I have to say I am really happy I asked on here, this thread is helping a TON, we are back to 50/50, maybe leaning 55/45 to K5 Blazer now because there are SO many parts! CK5.com is also a factor because there is SO much information there and details, whereas the FSBronco board does not seem to be as deep or rich. I have been on CK5 since 2001 (they started in 1999) and online resources are a big factor for me.

One of those, "I should not have looked" deals, CUCV axles are selling for $1200-1800ish on Pirate4x4? Does that sound about right? Some of those are already converted to rear discs... not that I "need" 1 tons but for that price you are getting 4.56 gears and rear locker (Gov't version of Detroit right?) combined with 350 TBI.

Ok, NEXT question for those in the know! K5 Blazer 89-91 era is 73.4" tall from the factory and about 80" wide. 4" of lift and going from say 30s stock to 35s is about 7" or so taller? Will it still fit under a standard garage door? I figure I will be 84-86" wide with 12.50 tire/wheels, so hoping I can still tuck this into the corner of my garage at night!

OR... I really am not afraid of bodywork, other than "tired" 25-30 year old springs I would consider simply running stock suspension and flaring fenders to fit 33-35s? That keeps me 4" closer to the ground / under the garage door!?
 
SHINTON said:
I have to say I am really happy I asked on here, this thread is helping a TON, we are back to 50/50, maybe leaning 55/45 to K5 Blazer now because there are SO many parts! CK5.com is also a factor because there is SO much information there and details, whereas the FSBronco board does not seem to be as deep or rich. I have been on CK5 since 2001 (they started in 1999) and online resources are a big factor for me.

One of those, "I should not have looked" deals, CUCV axles are selling for $1200-1800ish on Pirate4x4? Does that sound about right? Some of those are already converted to rear discs... not that I "need" 1 tons but for that price you are getting 4.56 gears and rear locker (Gov't version of Detroit right?) combined with 350 TBI.

Ok, NEXT question for those in the know! K5 Blazer 89-91 era is 73.4" tall from the factory and about 80" wide. 4" of lift and going from say 30s stock to 35s is about 7" or so taller? Will it still fit under a standard garage door? I figure I will be 84-86" wide with 12.50 tire/wheels, so hoping I can still tuck this into the corner of my garage at night!

OR... I really am not afraid of bodywork, other than "tired" 25-30 year old springs I would consider simply running stock suspension and flaring fenders to fit 33-35s? That keeps me 4" closer to the ground / under the garage door!?
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Negative the CUCV axles have a legit Detroit in them, not the gov-bomb.

fe2399c9bfcd60bd1aabc4d704362ee7.jpg


This is mine on 285/75r17 nittos that are bald and measure 33" tall, and about 5" of lift. It's close but should roll out of the garage like this. Front is a little high bc the engine was out in that picture. And yes I've got a 7 ft door. As far as width, even with 12.50 tires, I highly doubt they will stick out more than 1" from the fender lips with proper backspacing.

Edit: CUCV axles need the rear perches moved outwards a few inches, shock mounts moved/changed, and you'll need a 1310-1350 conversion joint to bolt the driveshaft in. Personally I'd run a 2.5" rear shackle flip and a zero rate add a leaf, and some 3" tough country springs if you don't want to go bigger than 35s. And I'd look for a 9 1/2" 14 semi floater to keep good ground clearance out back. You can find them in 6 lug which will let you keep your factory wheels and just put some 35x12.50s on them.
 
SHINTON said:
I have to say I am really happy I asked on here, this thread is helping a TON, we are back to 50/50, maybe leaning 55/45 to K5 Blazer now because there are SO many parts! CK5.com is also a factor because there is SO much information there and details, whereas the FSBronco board does not seem to be as deep or rich. I have been on CK5 since 2001 (they started in 1999) and online resources are a big factor for me.

One of those, "I should not have looked" deals, CUCV axles are selling for $1200-1800ish on Pirate4x4? Does that sound about right? Some of those are already converted to rear discs... not that I "need" 1 tons but for that price you are getting 4.56 gears and rear locker (Gov't version of Detroit right?) combined with 350 TBI.

Ok, NEXT question for those in the know! K5 Blazer 89-91 era is 73.4" tall from the factory and about 80" wide. 4" of lift and going from say 30s stock to 35s is about 7" or so taller? Will it still fit under a standard garage door? I figure I will be 84-86" wide with 12.50 tire/wheels, so hoping I can still tuck this into the corner of my garage at night!

OR... I really am not afraid of bodywork, other than "tired" 25-30 year old springs I would consider simply running stock suspension and flaring fenders to fit 33-35s? That keeps me 4" closer to the ground / under the garage door!?
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4" and 35s on my sons fits in my 7' garage door. Its tight, like within 5-6" but it fits.
For reference I ran 38.5s with ~ 4" of lift and liberal application of the sawzall.

Starting from stock, get a shackle flip for the front and some 52s.
The 52s or 63s in the rear and a frankenstein pack. Other than steering and driveshafts you can get 6" on a K5 for under $300.
87-91 TBI is where its at. Half the ones you find some good ole boy mechanic will have ripped it off and replaced with a carb because"that dern efi dont work rite"
 
if URE is as extreme as you plan on wheeling, dont spend the effort on tons.
That bolt in isnt as bolt in as you'd think. It is, but if you have never done it before it isnt an easy afternoon project. You'll be chasing a few parts down.
Bastard joints like mentioned.
Brake hoses arent always same thread. etc.
Perches need moved as mentioned.

Again nothing difficult, but Ive rescued 3 high schoolers in the last year that thought that was bolt in and come sunday realized they needed to drive to school tomorrow and called my son.

If you start looking make sure the tailgate is solid. Bad prone to rust or rip up top and the window mount. The gate itself is hella expensive. The electric window deal can be completely rebuilt better than new including motor, regulator etc for ~$100.
 
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