Trailer build - smaller and lighter

[Andy J.]

Sold my 16' diamond-plate deck trailer a few days ago, but I need a new one to get to Harlan in 5 weeks so here we go...

I pull my 3100 lb yota with a half-ton pick-up, so one of the main themes here will be reducing weight without sacrificing strength. The plans are 12'L x 82"W with 2' dovetail. Wood deck, dual 3500lb braking axles, 5"x2"x11ga tubing for the main rails and 2"x2"x1/4" angle cross beams. I thought about going 4"x2"x11ga because I found a build thread on Pirate that did, but ultimately decided against it for piece of mind when hauling heavier stuff. I've done all the design work in Solidworks, but still working on a few details. Solidworks has been great for verifying my hand calcs on the CG, overall weight, and tongue weight. I want to make the fenders removable, but haven't figured out how to do it in a way that I am happy with. I also decided to go with the fold-up ramps because sliding ramps in and out from underneath the deck is a PITA. Plus, I wanted the supports that prevent the trailer from tipping up when you load (notice these aren't in the model yet).

Pardon the crappy cell phone screen shots...

 

[Andy J.]

I scored these brand new alloy wheels and tires on Craigslist for about 60% of what they would have cost me new. They still have the stickers on the wheels. Picked up the framing material as well. I'm going to run down to Kaufman to pick up the axles tomorrow morning. I have been looking everywhere else for axles because I assumed that I could find them cheaper online, but this turned out not to be true.

I will get an updated (and proper) model screenshot in the next day or so. Fully built, including ramps and spare tire, SW puts the weight at just under 1400 lbs. Its a little heavier than I originally wanted, I was going for 1200, but oh well. In this is my estimation of each axle/tire pair at 200 lbs. I will try to get actual weights of these soon for comparison.

 

[drkelly]

Very cool. If want to reduce the weight further, you could leave the middle open.

My Kaufman trailer has the removable fenders. It is a simple design. I will take a picture of how they mount if you want. It is just two bolts per fender. I've had them on and off a few times.

 

[Andy J.]

Very cool. If want to reduce the weight further, you could leave the middle open.

My Kaufman trailer has the removable fenders. It is a simple design. I will take a picture of how they mount if you want. It is just two bolts per fender. I've had them on and off a few times.

Thanks! I am considering leaving the middle open. A 2"x12"x12' weighs about 40 lbs, so that's an easy 120lbs weight loss. I left a full deck just because it looks better and I usually get roped into helping someone move at least once a yr. Now that I think about, that's a good strategy to get out of a few house moves.

If you would take a few pics of the fenders, that would be awesome!

 

[ncsutj]

I've been thinking along the same lines. How much did your old trailer weigh? I was considering buying but you sold it pretty quickly.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

 

[ol'Jeeps]

I built my trailer with the center open. Aside from the weight advantage, I have many time used the trailer as a "lift" to work on the Jeep both at home and on wheeling trips!! Also nice on wash days!!

 

[Andy J.]

I've been thinking along the same lines. How much did your old trailer weigh? I was considering buying but you sold it pretty quickly.

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It did sale quickly. I never actually weighed it, but I calculated the weight of it to be about 2100 lbs.

I built my trailer with the center open. Aside from the weight advantage, I have many time used the trailer as a "lift" to work on the Jeep both at home and on wheeling trips!! Also nice on wash days!![/quote

I didn't really think about the 'lift' aspect. I was thinking more along the lines of if the axle broke in half, there would be no center for it to sit on...LOL

 

[Loganwayne]

You could also put expanded metal in the center and have them removable with a couple of bolts along the top and bottom using flat stock to clamp it

 

[Andy J.]

You could also put expanded metal in the center and have them removable with a couple of bolts along the top and bottom using flat stock to clamp it

That's an interesting idea. Quick math says 36 ft^2 of 3/4"-#9 expanded metal will weigh about 62 lbs.

Considering the weight and price of either option, open is starting to look good. 3 12' 2x12s would be $80

 

[Kamel]

Very neat idea. Something I have contemplated for a while myself. Keep us updated, subscribed!

 

[Andy J.]

I opened up the center and changed those last remaining boards from 12"W to 10"W. That saved me 106lbs. I also added a few other things (like lights). Now we are at 1283lbs. I had estimated each wheel/tire combo at 40lbs. I threw one on the scale today and it was 39.5lbs. Not a bad SWAG! Here's the screenshots:

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

I've thought of building about the same. But I'd drop to three crossers, add 11ga. tubing 24 inches from each main rail to mirror shape of frame. Put 2 inch angle in these 24 inches on center and cover with 3/16 alum atp. No rotten boards ever! And a more open center for all the above reasons.
Is the tongue going to be frenched into the main frame like in the pic? With 2 x 2 angle crossers your boards are going to add a lot for the decks capacity if you ever center load something heavy, so I wouldn't skimp on the boards. Fixed some scary issues with angle crossers and worn and rotten boards on trailers.

 

[Hurley]

Love threads like this. Keep that solidworks model, you'll savor the comparison when the trailer is finished (or compare concept to finished product)...BTDT.

 

[hadfield4wd]

I like this. I love a purpose built project of any kind.

I need to go weigh my trailer, but I'm pretty sure it's around 1500lbs. For an 18' trailer that's great. It is built with angle versus tube and if I had a heavy rig I would not use it. But I'm only carrying 2500 lbs of atv's and dirt bikes.

How will you hold the ramps up? Some people use chain, but they rattle and move a lot, and the sound is annoying. I suggest some bar stock bolted loosely on the trailer and the other end with a hole and a pin.

One thing to caution is your tongue weight will not be able to be changed as you have very little room for movement. Also your tie downs will be short you'll need to think these out as sometimes the leader on a ratchet strap is long and the ratchet portion will be too close to the axle. All this can be over comed. I like it.

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

X2 on what Matt stated. If you are building this just for your yota, i would suggest figuring out weights of the truck & trailer and setting your axles based on tongue weight since you won't be able to move front & rear.

 

[Andy J.]

I've thought of building about the same. But I'd drop to three crossers, add 11ga. tubing 24 inches from each main rail to mirror shape of frame. Put 2 inch angle in these 24 inches on center and cover with 3/16 alum atp. No rotten boards ever! And a more open center for all the above reasons.
Is the tongue going to be frenched into the main frame like in the pic? With 2 x 2 angle crossers your boards are going to add a lot for the decks capacity if you ever center load something heavy, so I wouldn't skimp on the boards. Fixed some scary issues with angle crossers and worn and rotten boards on trailers.

Funny you mention the dual-frame channel design because that's actually what I started with and later lightened it up to the current version. I know you should never say never, but I really don't anticipate hauling anything other than the yota with this trailer. I agree that the boards in the center would be and integral part of the overall load-carrying capacity should anything ever be loaded there. I will give some more thought to the angle crossers and maybe do some FEA just to verify. BTW, your XJ bumpers I saw in the vendor section look badass!

Love threads like this. Keep that solidworks model, you'll savor the comparison when the trailer is finished (or compare concept to finished product)...BTDT.

Thanks, the comparisions have already started!

I like this. I love a purpose built project of any kind.

I need to go weigh my trailer, but I'm pretty sure it's around 1500lbs. For an 18' trailer that's great. It is built with angle versus tube and if I had a heavy rig I would not use it. But I'm only carrying 2500 lbs of atv's and dirt bikes.

How will you hold the ramps up? Some people use chain, but they rattle and move a lot, and the sound is annoying. I suggest some bar stock bolted loosely on the trailer and the other end with a hole and a pin.

One thing to caution is your tongue weight will not be able to be changed as you have very little room for movement. Also your tie downs will be short you'll need to think these out as sometimes the leader on a ratchet strap is long and the ratchet portion will be too close to the axle. All this can be over comed. I like it.

X2 on what Matt stated. If you are building this just for your yota, i would suggest figuring out weights of the truck & trailer and setting your axles based on tongue weight since you won't be able to move front & rear.

I'm one step ahead of ya. I considered the bar stock idea (I'm going to do this to a buddy's trailer that currently uses turn buckles), but decided to use a pin thru two aligning brackets. I'll get a screenshot for you. On the tongue weight, I'm currently calculated at 400lbs (my old trailer was 430lbs and pulled well). This is 9% of the overall weight, so I could add a few pounds if needed by moving the yota forward 1-2 inches. IIRC, 1" forward equals 30lbs of additional tongue weight.

I picked up the axles this morning. They are lighter than I expected. Will have to weigh them tonight.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

So how does a man get solid works who isn't an engineer but sometimes wishes he'd followed through on that route of education? Is it stupid high like the AutoCAD I priced and used like nearly 20 yrs ago?? Damn its been that long since high school and college? Sorry for the hi jack, but I ogle every time I see those type of software designs.

 

[dackers]

Ramps plus dovetail to carry a wheeler? Just saying you could possibly lose the ramps! my 18' trailer weighs in at 2200 lbs without my ramps, I did build ramps that lock in when I carry something that won't hop on the trailer under it's own power. Just a thought.

 

[BRUISER]

I bet you can save 100lbs if you bought aluminum ramps and got rid of the steel ramps..

 

[Andy J.]

So how does a man get solid works who isn't an engineer but sometimes wishes he'd followed through on that route of education? Is it stupid high like the AutoCAD I priced and used like nearly 20 yrs ago?? Damn its been that long since high school and college? Sorry for the hi jack, but I ogle every time I see those type of software designs.

Solidworks is stupid expensive. I have it because of my job. I don't know of a way to get it any cheaper unless you are a student and can buy the student version.

I never used the ramps on my old trailer, but was glad to have them incase of breakage. I weighed the axles + suspension last night...125lbs. I was estmating 200

 

[Andy J.]

Got the frame started today. I updated axle weights to actual and I'm at 1240 lbs with a full wood deck, steel ramps, and spare tire. I'm pretty happy with that.

 

[Hurley]

Solidworks is stupid expensive. I have it because of my job. I don't know of a way to get it any cheaper unless you are a student and can buy the student version.

Not to hijack, but the student version is basically worthless (back when I used it). Same thing for student seats of AutoCAD.

FWIW, one can look for pre-2005 acad seats to use; after that Autodesk keeps track of the serial numbers.... SW is a completely different animal. One has to have an activation code (and internet connection), and you've only got so many attempts before you get blocked and the owner of that particular license starts getting emails from Dassault Systemes asking 'what'cha doin?'

kEEP the pictures coming!

 

[Andy J.]

Not much to update here, but I did get a few goodies:

Some crooked-looking plasma cut to french in the tongue beams (measure twice cut once!):

I'm going out of town this weekend, so probably no more updates until next week

 

[Andy J.]

Made some progress tonight. Tongue beams are finished, but still need to install the coupler bracket and a couple gussets. I got half the suspension brackets on as well. Was gonna do a little more but killed the last plasma consumables I had, so I gave up.

 

[Kamel]

That looks good. Are you still doing a dove tail?