Traveling for a Year. Tips?

As per our phone conversation today, IMO you need something with a full float rear. In addition, watch the weight of the tow hauler with the SxS, tools gear, food, etc VS the capacity of the tow hauler axles.

I think you'll overload the TH axles quickly using one that is lightweight enough to tow with your 1/2 ton.
 
Stumbled on this yesterday, rvforum.net
Say they've been around 25 years. Lots to sort through.

You mentioned AC
Only way to have AC is shore power or a generator. Period.

This might lead into solar, battery banks, inverters, and such. solarpaneltalk.com is the best reference I've found so far. I think all the mods are electrical engineers of some form. Serious but simple.
 
obullfish said:
I’ve seen multiple tow dollies in use over the past couple years and talked to a couple of the people towing with them. One was hauling a Rzr and the others were hauling golf carts because they didn’t want a toy hauler. Everyone I talked to about their dollies were very happy with them and there road manners.
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I would not recommend one. Camper frames aren't even beefy enough for the camper itself. Lots of 5th wheels have problems with broke frames around the King pin area. Usually because some one uses a gooseneck adapter but I've read of several that have broken from swivel wheel contraptions on the back.
 
Loganwayne said:
Hell no on the hybrid. You’ll freeze your ass in the winter.


Ditch the side by side. Most rv parks won’t let you drive them around like a golf cart. And most places you go won’t have a place for you to use it. Go to the places where you could and you can rent one. In the end it would be a hell of a lot cheaper to rent one every time you wanted to use one.


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Puss
I've camped in a pop up for years never had any problems. Plus if it is that cold out you are going to have to make sure the bottom is insulated, so water lines and black or gray tank don't freeze. Been at the beach over 90 degrees and ac kept up fine. Well below freezing and was comfortable other than lack of water from the faucet. Plus you aren't paying for electricity by the KW it cost the same no mater how much you use.

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No fries said:
Puss
I've camped in a pop up for years never had any problems. Plus if it is that cold out you are going to have to make sure the bottom is insulated, so water lines and black or gray tank don't freeze. Been at the beach over 90 degrees and ac kept up fine. Well below freezing and was comfortable other than lack of water from the faucet. Plus you aren't paying for electricity by the KW it cost the same no mater how much you use.

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I tent camp year round but if I’m living in a camper I’m not wanting to be in a half tent half camper


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I only tent camp once a year and that is totally different. To each his own. But reduced weight, approx same floor space, and cheaper purchase price all seem good to me especially if you can't upgrade to a 3/4 ton. Refletix in the windows does wonders for the thermal barrier.

I had to chime in just to give you hell like everyone else does. LoL.

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Definitely no hybrids or pop ups. Thanks tho.

The rear axle is rated 3900 lbs. Actual weight for the rear fueled is 2265, which leaves me 1875 left in what the rear axle is rated for. This is 'actual', where the 1400 was the sticker.

Have also learned here, its not just about what you can pull, but moreso what you can stop. So taking this into consideration as well.

@Jody Treadway Most of what we are looking at are in the 6900Lb range, with a 1k Lb tongue weight, that GV is over 10.5kLb, leaving 3500Lb and some change for cargo weight.
 
ckruzer said:
Most of what we are looking at are in the 6900Lb range, with a 1k Lb tongue weight, that GV is over 10.5kLb, leaving 3500Lb and some change for cargo weight.
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You'll easily eat up 2,500# of that with water, groceries, propane, clothes and misc crap.
 
shawn said:
You'll easily eat up 2,500# of that with water, groceries, propane, clothes and misc crap.
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x2. if you are planning to visit more remote places, you might be stuck towing for some distance with tanks full, which will effect capacity of trailer. For the same reason, I would get a camper with the largest tanks I could afford/pull. A 40gal fresh water tank doesnt last long when you are remote.
 
Yes, we are very anally keeping track of weights and actual "wet" weights including packed items.

Ben, were sticking closer to the 80gal range.

Weve nix'd the rzr for now. Just a standard travel/destination trailer. All the toy haulers worth their salt were too far outside the weight range.
 
I will echo upgrading the truck. Yes, a 1/2 ton will pull the weight. But I akin that to HF tools vs SnapOn tools. HF tools will work but will wear out much quicker while the SnapOn tools are (supposed to) be reliable for the long haul. My opinion
 
ckruzer said:
Ok Thanks
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Honestly not trying to be a smart *ss. You just need to realize you'll be at the limit(s) of your truck's suspension, rear axle, brakes and overall ability for PROLONGED use. I would really consider renting a SXS when you get wherever home is for a bit. That way you could have a typical camper as opposed to a toy hauler. Less weight, less wear and tear.
By the time you add airbags, better shocks, 3.92 gears, etc...I bet you are (or would have been) very close to the cost of a moderately equipped 3/4 or 1 ton.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Ones that fit a 3/4 or 1 ton truck.
Seriously buddy...
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1 ton shocks on a 1/2 ton truck? Didn't ol Ricky have a thread about that?

Edit: Beefin the Rear packs

P.S. I am a search ninja.

P.S.S. These days, if you posted a thread entitled "beefin the rear packs", it would probably be talking about one of squatty those douche mobile trucks.
 
You can buy a nice class 8 truck for pretty cheap.
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Jody Treadway said:
Honestly not trying to be a smart *ss. You just need to realize you'll be at the limit(s) of your truck's suspension, rear axle, brakes and overall ability for PROLONGED use. I would really consider renting a SXS when you get wherever home is for a bit. That way you could have a typical camper as opposed to a toy hauler. Less weight, less wear and tear.
By the time you add airbags, better shocks, 3.92 gears, etc...I bet you are (or would have been) very close to the cost of a moderately equipped 3/4 or 1 ton.
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a few posts back we let go of the rzr idea. we mapped out some routes, and the frequency of use would not justify the space sacrifice. just going with a reg ole TT now. We are looking in the range of 28ft, and that has a gross of 8000 range, so the numbers line up for payload and tongue weight. Loaded for a trip with full gas tank, the truck has an available payload of 1400. We stick to the above number we will be well within the numbers for the truck rating and well below the 9.9k max tow.
 
ckruzer said:
a few posts back we let go of the rzr idea. we mapped out some routes, and the frequency of use would not justify the space sacrifice. just going with a reg ole TT now. We are looking in the range of 28ft, and that has a gross of 8000 range, so the numbers line up for payload and tongue weight. Loaded for a trip with full gas tank, the truck has an available payload of 1400. We stick to the above number we will be well within the numbers for the truck rating and well below the 9.9k max tow.
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With that scenario and the usage you stated, I think you will be fine with your truck. You will certainly learn it's limitations, but it won't detract from the overall experience.
 
obullfish said:
Nick I still think you are going to need a Peterbilt big rig just so I can ask you how do you like your Peter Built.
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Hahah. Still trying to convince the wife we should just dog sled around the artic
 
Its great we decided this now, as the lease is up this march. Plenty of time! We are shopping storage facilities now, and we are going to start slowly moving out all nonessentials the month or two before leaving. Should be able to avoid a moving truck this way. Getting the truck into shops as I can, and doing work myself too as I can. First stage for the truck starts Monday!

Right now. The lineup for the truck is as follows:

All fluids (just prior)
3.92 or 4.11 gears or stay 3.55
load range e tires 10 ply, 2 spare tires
air bags (looking at air 5000 and firestone's)
on board air or filled air tank or electric "tire" pump or bicycle pump ( :eek: )
remove rear seats, dog space
wd hitch
aux gas but dont know if will have the payload
headlight/taillight tuneup
tow mirrors or extentions
struts front, shocks rear
new wheel bearings
new brakes - DONE

Some preventives:
spark plugs
check exhaust bolts, or preemptive replace
air filter
tps clean or replace
maf clean
check oil cooler lines
check trans cooler lines
replace ujoints
replace balljoints
 
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i vote to have some type of onboard air. it will be appreciated if you have blowouts, leaking tires, filling tubes, etc. Maybe even put the compressor on the trailer with a longer hose.

I would also look at getting an external TPMS system for the trailer, and carry 2 spares, plus a good plug kit.
 
^^ this. Onboard air is a must for roadside change outs, also it allows you to adjust your airbags (unless you go self contained). Impact gun, then checking the spare before you run it. Also checking psi before you move out to your next destination. Remote TPMS is cheap and good insurance to keep tabs on your trailer tire psi. It can save you having the blowout from underinflation and having to use the onboard air!
 
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