Upper Control Arms

shawn said:
Probably. The driver's side arm might bend, though. I don't know enough about the Clayton arms to say how strong they are. But it's not uncommon to bend a y-style radius arm when it's the only one on the axle. You usually have to add a bunch of plate to it to increase the section depth. Think about something along the lines of a fabricated trailing arm.
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So educate me here. How are two upper trailing arms with a trackbar different than what I was suggesting? It was what I had in mind using the factory upper mounts. I would also plate the upper mounts to add strength.

I know I do not have room for a true 4 link without a trackbar. Would the trailing arms give me more articulation without the radius arm binding?

I am open to all suggestions. If leaving it as is or going to a single sided radius arm setup is best then I can do that as well. Just want to push it to its limits. Always looking at ways to improve it.

It started out stock and I have continuously improved it so just looking for a little more and open to suggestions.
 
Dude, I would start out by learning the correct terminology of things. Shawn threw out trailing arm and you ran with it without knowing what he was talking about.

Start over here, then do the google magic thing looking up how others did their 3 links on WJs, you’ll get an idea of the materials you actually need, then find someone competent to help guide you through it in person; would be my advice.

Link Suspension Basics
Link Suspension Basics
 
Since education is something you're after here, think about this.
If you were to use the existing crossmember and have long arm lowers, but run uppers from the axle to the OEM frame location, what would happen? In terms of bind, pinion angle change, etc.
You could actually draw it on paper or even make a model out of toothpicks
Teraflex used to sell a kit using long lowers and short uppers.
Used to.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
then find someone competent to help guide you through it in person; would be my advice.
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Dis guy ---->
rlf.JPG


He's got a garage fridge full of beer, and is MORE than willing to let you "help" and learn all kinds of stuff, while fixing your problem.

Ain't no shame in farming out work to someone who's done enough to know what DOESN'T work. I mean...it's a great alternative to fugging it up yourself THEN paying him to un-fug it
 
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Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to unhook the side that is farthest from the hogs head. I have two good friends that have run that way for years with no ill effects and have not bent the lower link from torque. It obviously will let that side twist more. If it were mine, I would try it. Just not when it wasn't towed somewhere. I think you will be fine, not taking anything away from what has been said above. All good info.
 
justjeepin86 said:
Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to unhook the side that is farthest from the hogs head. I have two good friends that have run that way for years with no ill effects and have not bent the lower link from torque. It obviously will let that side twist more. If it were mine, I would try it. Just not when it wasn't towed somewhere. I think you will be fine, not taking anything away from what has been said above. All good info.
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There's one company that puts a small coilover on the pass side, to allow twist.

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