Warrior's shop build....wiring and building my shop thread

Croatan_Kid said:
I thought for sure those would be panel shop doors and not roll ups!
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Errrrrr. I honestly know the difference now. We have a roll up where I teach. Much smaller much better built. I was worried about killing lighting with a door this size up above me. The other thought was clear space and overall eave height. I wanted a true 14 foot tall opening.
 
Mac5005 said:
Not sure about the code issues. @UNBREAKABLE.

My guess which is completely non educated, running common ground back to panel, and securing metal boxes to red iron would be fiiiiinnnnnneee. Lol.

I seriously have no clue.

I don't see the logical difference securing surface mount boxes to the red iron, and having the emt clamped and secured to the red iron as it runs to panel.

Definitely 3v and 5v would be easier as more large flat area of no corrugated to trim out around the box. You could then put all terminations and boxes where the flat areas of tin would be.
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Code is my only worry....I like the idea of a built in raceway for a lot of my interior needs.
 
Any local roofing metal supplier should have tons of metal j channel in stock. Shouldn't cost more than a couple bucks for a 10' stick.

I would look at using an inverted r panel for the interior. I have done the interior of a lot of building with it.
 
awheelterd said:
Just put the minimum number of outlets/lighting fixtures to get you COA then go back and do what you want.
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YotaOnRocks said:
Any local roofing metal supplier should have tons of metal j channel in stock. Shouldn't cost more than a couple bucks for a 10' stick.

I would look at using an inverted r panel for the interior. I have done the interior of a lot of building with it.
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As soon as I figure out the what either of these are I can go for it.

The wiring minimum and codes are Greek. Even though I've wired 12volt. 24 volt. 115/220 and 3 phase on rescue equipment I've never wired a structure, only little repair upfits here and yonder.

Specific panels and types. Russian. Must be Russian.

I do wanna do the minimum and get power. The finish J trim sounds like an idea as long as it's not very wide or high in profile.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
Errrrrr. I honestly know the difference now. We have a roll up where I teach. Much smaller much better built. I was tworried about killing lighting with a door this size up above me. The other thought was clear space and overall eave height. I wanted a true 14 foot tall opening.
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High clearance doors! The track hugs the ceiling much better than what you're probably thinking of. It'd be a little tight, but they could probably have made them work. I worry about the longevity of those kind of doors, but that's just me.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
As soon as I figure out the what either of these are I can go for it.

The wiring minimum and codes are Greek. Even though I've wired 12volt. 24 volt. 115/220 and 3 phase on rescue equipment I've never wired a structure, only little repair upfits here and yonder.

Specific panels and types. Russian. Must be Russian.

I do wanna do the minimum and get power. The finish J trim sounds like an idea as long as it's not very wide or high in profile.
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I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will. Chime in but it's normally x number of outlets per wall emergency lighting and x number of light fixtures. @rockcity maybe?

When we built our new shop at work it was "just for storage" w no electricity. Had it wired late like we wanted. Just had to get a permit for the power company to set a meter best I remember.
 
Here is a pic showing an inverted r panel and small profile j channel trim.
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I like the inverted r panel because it allows room behind the panel in the flat sections for electrical and plumbing runs.
 
In a residence it's like 1 outlet per wall within like 6' of a door, no more than 12' between outlets or something like that. For a shop, it may be a little different. Most of the inspectors are usually pretty helpful if you ask them, especially since you aren't a GC/sub. They don't want to make more trips than necessary so most are willing to provide some minor guidance.
 
Here's a standard r panel we did in a uhaul upfit project.

0912170958.jpg
 
That's only one section of it. Its 4 sections 2 are 200x100 1 is 100x100 and the 4th section is 100x300
 
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Saved some more money......spent some more. I choose to bite the bullet and hire a pro.

Walls will be covered and clean. Future air lines might be the only exposed tubing for a while. Only the over head runs a wall.

Electrician says I got enough reserve to start a small campground. Perfect.
 
Very impressed, I have a good source for auto lifts, they aren't as expensive as you think.
Where is it in the plans for the pool table location?
 
49willys said:
Very impressed, I have a good source for auto lifts, they aren't as expensive as you think.
Where is it in the plans for the pool table location?
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Gladly send me info of the lift.


Pool table would have to go in a addition. This puppy is for working in. A beer fridge at best. This is my man cave, not a frilly sports bar sofa pout house. I'm not a social kinda let's hangout and drivel about teams sorta guy.
You wanna come over and excersise some craftyness, build or create I'm your huckleberry. I like shooting pool though!
 
Didn't mean to offend, it's a running joke in my family, anytime my brother draws up plans there's always a pool table! It's boat season and instead of spending the winter working on them, found other things to procrastinate with. Building a new center console for the pontoon, experiments in sheet metal, building my own tooling. It's crude, but cheap.
IMG_1633.jpg
 
49willys said:
Didn't mean to offend, it's a running joke in my family, anytime my brother draws up plans there's always a pool table! It's boat season and instead of spending the winter working on them, found other things to procrastinate with. Building a new center console for the pontoon, experiments in sheet metal, building my own tooling. It's crude, but cheap.View attachment 267188
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None taken...the typed word is real literal. Nice job on the home made radius brake. What dimple dies are you using?
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
@Mac5005. Your speaking my language. I like the vinyl trim idea. Going to look into that.

So mounting my electric and outlet boxes directly to the red iron will pass code??

One of My concerns was the approximate 4 foot vertical spacing of the iron. As for mounting shelves I got idea rolling around on that. Hopeful as a working display of some product/skills offering to potential clients. Hence the over board tin approach.

I also want all the extras clean and right behind the walls.

My other thoughts toward tin......dirty doesn't matter, patina just adds cool factor. And best of all: just unscrew fix repair replace.
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Yes mount the boxes and raceway right to the red iron. It's how we do it. All the steel in the building is bonded together anyway.
 
Have you seen purchased your lighting yet? I have 6 or 8, I really can't remember, nice lithonia led highbay lights that need a home. Would let go for a great price.
 
peewee said:
Have you seen purchased your lighting yet? I have 6 or 8, I really can't remember, nice lithonia led highbay lights that need a home. Would let go for a great price.
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Mine are all ready up, nothin left but the bill. The fun stuff. Thank you for the offer.
 
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